A luxury culinary train journey through Portugal's renowned wine region

With its regal blue exterior shimmering in the sunlight, Portugal’s Presidential Train departs from Porto’s medieval center, beginning a luxurious nine-hour gourmet journey into the breathtaking Douro Valley, one of Europe’s most picturesque wine regions.

Dating back 127 years, the train's oldest carriages were originally crafted in Paris to transport Portugal’s royalty in unparalleled comfort.

Today, these former royal carriages carry travelers on an opulent day trip, covering 200 kilometers (125 miles) of spectacular landscapes from Porto to the prestigious Quinta do Vesuvio estate at the eastern edge of the Douro Valley.

For most of the journey, the train hugs the Douro River’s winding path, unveiling a series of stunning vistas of the river's wide expanse, bordered by terraced vineyards, ancient stone villages, and the grand mansions of historic wine families.

A rotating team of Michelin-starred chefs from both Portugal and abroad are preparing exquisite gourmet lunches for guests on the 30 or so trips scheduled during the spring and fall of 2017, paired perfectly with award-winning wines from the Douro Valley.

The culinary journey was set to be headlined by Esben Holmboe Bang, the world’s youngest and northernmost three-star chef. His Oslo-based restaurant, Maaemo, is a revered destination for enthusiasts of New Nordic cuisine.

A culinary renaissance

Unfortunately, Holmboe Bang suffered a broken leg just one day before he was scheduled to fly in from Oslo.

In his place, his Irish sous-chef, Halaigh Whelan-McManus, bravely stepped up to deliver an unforgettable experience, serving around 60 passengers a delightful fusion of Nordic expertise and local Portuguese ingredients. Dishes ranged from an appetizer of onion puree with rhubarb oil and spicy Scandinavian akvavit, to a dessert of strawberries and smoked custard.

The revival of the Presidential Train’s culinary journey was envisioned by entrepreneur Gonçalo Castel-Branco, who fell in love with the carriages when he discovered them abandoned in Portugal’s railway museum.

“I knew I had to get it back in service, but I couldn’t figure out how,” recalls Castel-Branco. “When my 10-year-old daughter suggested turning it into a restaurant, I initially dismissed it, but after sleeping on it, I realized she was absolutely right.”

After much negotiation, the national railway company agreed to the proposal. A trial run in the previous year saw the train operating 10 trips, with meals prepared by Dieter Koschina, the chef of the renowned two-star Vila Joya restaurant on Portugal’s southern coast.

This year, the train returns with 10 trips scheduled through May, and around 20 more planned for the fall, coinciding with the vibrant grape harvest season in the Douro Valley.

For the remaining spring journeys, Porto's renowned chef Pedro Lemos and João Rodrigues of Lisbon’s Feitoria restaurant will be in the kitchen, though Castel-Branco has yet to announce the chefs for the fall season.

“This concept just works,” says Castel-Branco. “When you combine this train with the stunning Douro landscape, everything else falls into place effortlessly.”

Breathtaking vistas

The adventure begins at Porto's São Bento station, a tribute to the golden age of rail travel. Built in the early 1900s, this grand terminal boasts a majestic granite façade in the French Beaux-Arts style. Inside, its cathedral-like hall is adorned with over 20,000 painted tiles depicting epic scenes of medieval Portuguese warriors battling their Spanish and Moroccan adversaries.

Once all passengers are settled, the train departs, heading directly into a tunnel that runs beneath the bustling cafes and theaters of Porto’s vibrant Batalha district.

It soon emerges from the tunnel, offering its first breathtaking view of the Douro Valley.

As the train cuts through the city, it crosses the historic 1877 Maria Pia Bridge, an iron structure designed by the famous French engineer Gustave Eiffel, also known for the iconic Eiffel Tower in Paris. Below, passengers glimpse colorful riverside mercantile houses and centuries-old port wine cellars. For a brief moment, the tracks veer away from the river, providing a chance to admire the beauty of the train itself as it travels through Porto’s eastern suburbs.

Portugal’s royal family didn't enjoy their lavish carriages for long. The monarchy was overthrown in a 1910 revolution, but the train continued its service under the republic, carrying Portugal’s presidents until the 1970s.

Foreign dignitaries were also welcomed aboard. In 1957, Queen Elizabeth II of Britain traveled on the train during a state visit to her country’s oldest ally, Portugal.

Timeless luxury

One of the final journeys of the train took place in 1970, when it transported the body of dictator António de Oliveira Salazar from Lisbon to his hometown of Santa Comba Dão for his funeral.

In the years that followed, the train was left abandoned until restoration efforts began in 2010, aiming to revive the art-deco grandeur that had once been enjoyed by world leaders after its last major overhaul in 1930.

Carefully restored, the presidential, ministerial, and press carriages now feature plush, velvety seating, along with a bar carriage and two dining cars adorned with polished wood panels and crisp white linens. Every detail, including the vintage-style restroom facilities, has been meticulously recreated.

Today, a robust 1960s diesel locomotive, finished in sleek blue with scarlet and white accents, pulls the train, replacing the steam engine that once carried Portugal’s 19th-century monarchs.

As the train slowly makes its way through the suburbs, staff begin serving the first drinks – a glass of crisp white wine from the Quinta do Vallado estate in the Douro Valley. By the time the train reaches its top speed of 80 kph (50 mph) – a pace suited to the aging train – passengers are savoring Vallado rosé with a delicate onion appetizer.

As the train reaches the Douro once more, it rolls past a wide expanse of water, flanked by vineyards destined for youthful vinho verde wines. It’s the perfect moment for the first course: a delicate blend of green peas, asparagus, and elderflower.

The train now enters the heart of the Douro wine region: a landscape of ancient estates perched high on hills that rise sharply from the river. Terraced slopes, supported by rugged stone walls, carve out the distinctive scenery.

At small riverside stations, the distinctive blue, white, and yellow azulejos – traditional Portuguese ceramic tiles – gleam, adding a burst of color to the landscape.

The region’s extreme climate – summers frequently topping 40°C (104°F) and winters bringing frosty temperatures – explains why train journeys are limited to the lush spring months and the harvest period, when the vines transform into shades of amber and crimson.

Since the 18th century, the Douro has been a protected wine region, producing the base for famous fortified port wines and, more recently, award-winning red and white table wines. Over the course of the journey, passengers enjoy at least seven different wines from the region.

Between stops at the picturesque wine ports of Régua and Pinhão, passengers are treated to reserva whites that pair perfectly with a flower-adorned mackerel fillet, served with apple and wild garlic.

Next, pigeon breasts are served with a rich wild mushroom sauce and roasted celeriac, accompanied by the first red of the day – a smoky, spicy wine crafted by the Niepoort family, originally from the Netherlands, who have been making wine in the Douro since 1840.

Before dessert, the train reaches the Quinta do Vesuvio stop, an isolated platform nestled in a romantic setting, where rolling hills meet the river. Surrounded by vines, citrus groves, and palm trees, the majestic mansion at the heart of the estate stands alone on the south bank of the Douro.

Golden river

According to local legend, the estate was named after one of its seven hills, which reminded a noble 19th-century owner of the volcano she had seen during her honeymoon in Naples.

Passengers can unwind in the riverside garden, sheltered by orange trees, enjoy coffee, port, and cigars while taking in the scenic view from the patio, or retreat to the cool, stone-walled winery. Here, a selection of robust reds and rare ports are available for tasting, amid the impressive stone basins still used for traditional foot-treading of the grapes.

The return journey features more port: Graham’s 30-year-old Tawny, paired with a selection of savory and sweet snacks – smoked local cold cuts and fruit tarts made with Norway’s distinctive brunost cheese.

The journey wasn’t without its challenges: in a region known for hearty dishes – Porto’s famous dish is a rich mix of offal and beans – some passengers felt the delicate Scandinavian bites were too light; there were complaints about slow food service, although the wine kept flowing; and a technical issue caused a 90-minute delay on the return to Porto.

It was hard to stay upset as the setting sun bathed the Douro in golden hues, a troubadour wandered the carriages playing his 12-string Portuguese guitar, and the pianist in the bar carriage happily took song requests while waiters served up the spirits.