A New Wave of Chefs is Revolutionizing Colombian Cuisine

Stepping into Bogotá’s Mesa Franca, you're immediately enveloped by the rich aromas of Colombian fare: roasted corn, tropical fruits, fresh herbs, and grilled meats. The modern decor — with sleek lines, minimalist wooden tables, hanging greenery, and vibrant red accents — might make you think you’ve entered someone’s home rather than a restaurant.

At the bar, a colossal local melon, freshly sourced from the market, awaits its transformation into today’s menu offerings. Expect dishes like raw tuna paired with goat’s milk yogurt and velvety avocado; charred hearts of palm with a hint of feijoa (guavasteen); and sea bass ceviche combined with trumpet mushrooms and grapefruit, all in a tomate de árbol (tree tomato) and green mango leche de tigre, subtly infused with elderflowers.

Led by chef Iván Cadena, Mesa Franca exemplifies the burgeoning culinary movement sweeping Bogotá and other Colombian cities such as Medellín, Cali, and Barranquilla. This vibrant trend captivates a new generation of adventurous diners eager for innovation. While Colombian chefs have yet to formally name this movement, it embodies a quest to harmonize tradition with modernity, showcase local ingredients, and tackle the enduring question: What defines Colombian cuisine?

Alejandro Gutiérrez, co-owner and chef of the avant-garde Salvo Patria, dismisses the notion of a 'New Colombian Cuisine,' stating, 'We are merely beginning to uncover the rich array of our land's offerings.'

The cuisine of Colombia’s Cundiboyacense region — the high-altitude plateau of the Andes that includes Bogotá — traditionally caters to the caloric demands of farmers laboring in harsh conditions. Expect hearty soups, rich stews, and an abundance of fresh fruits. While these dishes are hearty and fulfilling, many Bogotanos still consider their traditional fare too modest for upscale dining.

However, not everyone shares this view. In recent years, culinary pioneers like René Redzepi of Noma have sparked a global enthusiasm for local ingredients and culinary traditions. Colombia is now embracing this trend, with Bogotá’s new generation of chefs passionately exploring and celebrating their nation's culinary heritage, rediscovering indigenous ingredients and ancient recipes, and adapting them for modern tastes.

'There are emerging young chefs making significant strides,' says Harry Sasson, a trailblazer in modernizing Colombian flavors. 'They are dedicated, enthusiastic, and deeply invested in their craft. The primary goal should be to highlight the diverse range of our ingredients, expanding beyond conventional notions of Colombian cuisine.'

This contemporary cuisine features robust grilled meats and rich, slow-cooked dishes. It includes amasijos (traditional starchy fare like empanadas, arepas, and some baked goods) with alternative grains and natural leavening, local vegetables and tubers, tropical fruits and leaves, vibrant soups, and fermented or distilled drinks. Influenced by Arabic, African, and European Creole flavors from Spanish colonizers, it embodies a sense of sabrosura — an irresistible, almost primal allure.

At the industrial-chic El Chato in the lively Chapinero district, chef Álvaro Clavijo's bold, locavore-inspired dishes shine. Enjoy beef tartare with rose vinaigrette and nasturtium-flower mayo; crab with rice chips and charred corn husks; and a lulo (local citrus fruit) granita with milk-powder meringue and soursop. Clavijo ensures that most ingredients are sourced within 100 kilometers of the restaurant.

Not far from El Chato, in a tastefully renovated townhouse, Salvo Patria also champions local ingredients. Dishes include albacore tataki seared in native achira (Indian shot) leaves, served in a smoked-trout broth and topped with pineapple vinegar, macadamia nuts, and pickled onions. Other offerings feature slow-braised pork with boronía (a sweet plantain and eggplant puree), arugula oil, and a fermented sauce made from local coffee husks.

These innovative dishes didn’t emerge in isolation. Before chefs like Gutiérrez and Clavijo, pioneers such as Leo Katz, the influential restaurateur of the 1980s and 1990s, made a mark with his relaxed Mytouries that focused on high-quality ingredients, trendy decor, and top-notch service. Katz’s establishments introduced a new dining style to a generation of Bogotanos. Additionally, Harry Sasson’s fusion of European techniques with Colombian flavors in the late '90s and early 2000s was pivotal for the evolution of the country's restaurant scene.

Few chefs have influenced Colombia’s culinary landscape as profoundly as Leonor Espinosa, who launched her renowned tasting-menu restaurant Leo in 2005. Alongside her daughter and sommelier Laura Hernández Espinosa, Leonor Espinosa has devoted herself to exploring the Colombian ecosystem and the traditional foodways of its rural areas. Each of her modernist dishes, crafted from Amazonian ingredients and recipes, narrates the story of its origin and people.

In 2017, Leonor Espinosa was honored with the Basque Culinary World Prize and named Best Female Chef in Latin America by World’s 50 Best. 'Leonor, Harry, and even newer talents like Antonuela [Ariza] and Eduardo [Martinez] from Mini Mal were our inspirations,' says Cadena from Mesa Franca. 'Rather than a new wave, what I see is a generation of chefs united by a common ethos: using the finest ingredients, collaborating closely with producers, and striving for sustainable food practices.'

At Ocio, an innovative spot near Leo in Bogotá’s International Center, chef Alex Salgado is preparing pulled pork marinated in an achiote paste with marjoram and fermented cassava juice, then wrapped and steamed in plantain leaves. While the techniques of curing, smoking, and fermenting featured in many of Ocio’s dishes are gaining global popularity, Salgado draws inspiration from ancient Colombian methods that enhance flavor through meticulous aging.

Ocio’s menu, with vibrant dishes like guatila (chayote) and tofu ceviche marinated in tangy coconut milk, offers a stark departure from traditional Bogotano fare. Salgado hopes that his innovative dishes will soon be recognized as genuinely Colombian, alongside classics like ajiaco, the city’s famed soup. 'Many of us are working towards the same goal,' says Salgado. 'It’s a collective effort to share our culinary narrative with the world.'

Where to explore the new wave of Colombian cuisine: Mesa Franca: Carrera 6 # 55-09, BogotáSalvo Patria: Calle 54A # 4-13, BogotáEl Chato: Calle 65B # 3B-76 77, BogotáHarry Sasson: Carrera 9 # 75-70, BogotáLeo: Calle 27B # 6-75, BogotáMini Mal: Transversal 4A # 57-52, BogotáOculto: Calle 75 # 20C-21, BogotáOcio Cocina Autóctona: Calle 28 # 6-65 Local 1, Bogotá