A new wave of Parisian eateries is reintroducing classic French dishes to the menu

Laughter rings out from a nearby table where three elderly French women – likely long-time friends or perhaps sisters – share a joyful moment over empty dessert plates, still streaked with chocolate remnants.

Not far off, two distinguished gentlemen, both with silver hair and dressed in tweed blazers, turtlenecks, and polished Oxford shoes, are savoring plates of sauerkraut and sausage, perhaps delving into deep philosophical discussion or simply enjoying their regular luncheon catch-up.

It’s a Saturday afternoon at the newly opened Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse (59 Boulevard du Montparnasse, 75006 Paris; +33 1 45 49 19 00), and the charming Art Nouveau dining room is filled with locals who’ve come for the promise of hearty, inexpensive French comfort food served at a delightful price.

The origins of the bouillon restaurant

The Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse is the latest to join Paris’ bouillon revival, bringing back a late 19th- and early 20th-century dining tradition that helped shape the modern restaurant. The 2017 debut of Bouillon Pigalle (22 Boulevard de Clichy, 75018 Paris; +33 1 42 59 69 31) shook up the local dining scene, and the historic Bouillon Julien (16 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris; +33 1 47 70 12 06) re-opened last year after being converted from an upper-class brasserie. The same group behind Bouillon Pigalle has also revealed plans to open a new location at Place de la République next year.

True to its name, the bouillon was originally conceived as a spot where hardworking Parisians could pause and refresh themselves with a nourishing meat broth or bouillon.

The origin of the bouillon is generally credited to Pierre-Louis Duval, a Parisian butcher who, in the mid-19th century, turned meat scraps into soups and broths, marketing them as “bouillons restaurants.” In this context, “restaurant” is used as an adjective meaning “restorative.”

This is where the term 'restaurant' comes from.

By the early 20th century, thanks largely to the entrepreneurial efforts of his son Alexandre Duval, Paris boasted around 250 bouillons, offering inexpensive “restorative broths” to the city’s working-class residents. The food was simple, yet nourishing and comforting, and most importantly, affordable.

As bouillons grew in popularity among the wealthier bourgeoisie, they gradually transformed into more refined and exclusive venues, like brasseries and bistros, eventually fading from the scene as a mainstay of Parisian dining.

Jump to 2019, when Paris was declared the epicenter of “rétrofoodisme” by the influential French restaurant guide Le Fooding, a playful term capturing the growing nostalgia for traditional French dishes.

“Not long ago, it was nearly impossible to find a proper French onion soup or a well-made sole meunière,” remarked Alexandre Cammas, the founder of Le Fooding.

“When something becomes scarce and hard to find, its desirability only grows. It’s no wonder that these nostalgic dishes are making a comeback,”

In other words, what was once old is now new again.

Affordable meals in a sophisticated atmosphere

On any given day, if you pass by a bouillon, you’ll likely spot long, but quickly moving lines of Parisians and savvy tourists eager to enjoy a wallet-friendly meal in an elegant setting. While Bouillon Pigalle was created from scratch, Bouillons Chartier Montparnasse and Julien are beautifully preserved landmarks that transport diners to the early 20th century with their luxurious decor, including stained glass ceilings, hand-painted tiles, wood carvings, and mirrored walls.

Parisians familiar with the bouillon concept know to manage their expectations: with appetizers priced between three and five euros and main courses around ten, this is not the place for a haute cuisine experience.

Dishes like veal blanquette (veal stew), roast chicken with fries, calf’s sweetbread, and pot-au-feu (boiled beef and vegetable soup) are straightforward, unpretentious, and devoid of any frills. There are no delicate garnishes meticulously placed with tweezers here.

In fact, a plate of steak with peppercorn sauce might come with an unapologetic spill of sauce on the dish's edge, and a lone, forlorn pickle could roll aimlessly beside a slice of terrine.

No modern twists or ironic deconstructions of classic recipes either.

This is exactly what attracts young diner Augustin Boone, who’s come to enjoy a meal with two friends.

“There are no surprises,” says the 23-year-old. “I know exactly what I’m going to get on my plate.”

His friends agree that there’s a certain comfort in knowing exactly what to expect from the meal.

Back to basics

“This is exactly the kind of meal I’d have at my grandmother’s,” says Boone, referring to his plate of Andouillette sausage and sautéed mushrooms. “It’s a simple, yet quintessential family dish.”

These dishes are also labor-intensive, requiring hours of preparation at home – time most people simply don’t have anymore, explains Yann Hulin, the director of operations at Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse.

“People are cooking less these days, especially traditional meals like pot-au-feu, which can take hours to make. Instead of spending five hours in the kitchen, people prefer dining out,” he adds.

“At our restaurants, guests come looking for a quick, affordable meal that takes them back to those Sunday family dinners,” he says.

Another defining feature of bouillons? They are a uniquely Parisian institution.

Boone’s friend, Maxence Lebeau, 22, is visiting from Lyon and admitted that he had no idea what a bouillon was before their visit that day.

“It feels like a Parisian secret,” he remarked. “A place where you can enjoy a simple, affordable working-class meal in such an extraordinary setting.”

Indeed, it is exceptional.

Both Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse and Bouillon Julien are designated historic monuments, showcasing some of the finest examples of Art Nouveau design in Paris. Until recently, both landmarks had operated as upscale brasseries before being restored to their original purpose as bouillons.

Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse is the sister location to the legendary Bouillon Chartier in the ninth arrondissement, a Paris institution since 1896, also recognized as a historic monument.

True Parisian spirit

Opened in 1906 in the working-class district of Faubourg Saint-Denis, Bouillon Julien remains a part of a vibrant and eclectic community. The area is home to a mix of Turkish, Pakistani, and Syrian restaurants, alongside traditional artisan cheesemongers, butchers, and colorful fruit and vegetable markets, all mingling with the city’s Bobo (bourgeois-bohemian) crowd.

The legendary Edith Piaf was a regular at Bouillon Julien, often dining at table No. 24 with her lover, boxer Marcel Cerdan. While Bouillon Julien takes reservations, the other bouillons operate on a walk-in basis.

“People come for the atmosphere and the affordable prices. There are plenty of beautiful restaurants in Paris, but they come with a hefty price tag,” says Pascal Le Bihan, the general manager of Bouillon Julien.

“Here, it’s lively, noisy, a bit chaotic, and diners are seated close together. It’s the kind of authentic Parisian experience you can’t find anywhere else in France,” he adds.

The reason for the cozy atmosphere? Tables are packed tightly together in family-style seating. A solo diner may find themselves sitting next to a group of friends, or a couple might share a table with a family of four. A casual request for a pot of Dijon mustard might spark a friendly exchange, and the buzz of lively conversation is often interrupted by bursts of cheerful laughter.

For Cammas, bouillon restaurants are like living museums, capturing a moment frozen in time. They’re exaggerated versions of French cuisine, much like the iconic Paris postcards featuring baguettes, wine, and cheese.

“Calf’s head is a classic French dish, but how often do the French actually eat it?” he points out. “Bouillons offer a simplified, more down-to-earth version of French cuisine – the kind of food that everyday French people eat.”

While that may be true, the historic decor still manages to impress locals like Christine Schmitt, 56, and her friends.

“It’s not just tourists who flock to bouillons – real Parisians do too,” Schmitt adds.

“The atmosphere is gorgeous, the prices are a pleasant surprise for Paris, the food is great, and it’s all so much fun,” she says.