Adrian Miller's Soul Food Journey through Denver

Adrian Miller, the James Beard Award-winning author of Soul Food and Black Smoke, who appears in the Netflix series High on the Hog: How African American Cuisine Transformed America, spent a significant portion of the pandemic revisiting his Denver roots and reflecting on his heritage.

“Being from Denver, Colorado, probably undermines my credibility when it comes to Southern cuisine and soul food!” he chuckles. Aside from his time at Stanford University, Georgetown Law School, and working as a special assistant to President Bill Clinton on the Initiative for One America, Miller has spent his entire life in the Denver area. His culinary interests span the globe, reaching from Veracruz, Mexico, to Jamaica, and from North Carolina to Nigeria. In a conversation with Dinogo, he explores foodways and the significance of the term 'home.'

Reflections on Being a 'Soul Food Scholar'

Miller believes there’s one place that could tie many of his culinary narratives together: “I would love to visit Jamaica... primarily for the food stories. In my writings about barbecue and soul food, I often reference Jamaican dishes, and I think it would be fascinating to witness traditional cooking there—perhaps draw connections to what we identify as soul food.”

Miller is eager to explore the Veracruz region of Mexico along the Gulf Coast. The port city, founded in the early 1500s, served as a base for Spain's conquest of the Aztecs. Over the centuries, as enslaved Africans were brought to Mexico via Cuba, a vibrant Afro-Cuban and Mexican culture emerged, particularly evident in its Carnival and culinary traditions. “I’m a huge fan of Mexican cuisine and am excited to delve into Afro-Mexican food,” he shares.

On Rediscovering Roots Beyond America

“I have a strong desire to visit West Africa... particularly Guinea-Bissau. I have DNA ties on both sides of my family. I also want to explore Senegal, Gambia, and Nigeria. So much of our heritage and storytelling has been systematically disrupted. I want to reconnect with my ancestral home... that’s where my food knowledge feels most lacking. It’s challenging to ascertain what occurred 400 years ago, especially during the era of enslavement. It often comes down to educated guesses. I yearn for a sense of kinship... and to travel freely without time constraints,” he expresses.

On His Favorite Comfort Food Spots

One of Miller’s all-time favorite dining spots is Grady’s BBQ in Dudley, North Carolina. Located along a roadside in a small community of about 10,000 people, the restaurant is cherished by locals and run by the beloved duo, Steve and Gerri Grady. Since the 1980s, they’ve been serving up classic Carolina barbecue and remain one of the few Black-owned barbecue joints in the state. Miller also praises LC’s Bar-B-Q in Kansas City for perfectly embodying everything he loves about this barbecue mecca, especially its famous burnt ends. Never forgetting his roots, Miller holds a special place in his heart for CoraFaye’s Cafe in Denver, his favorite spot for bone-in fried whole catfish and coconut cream cheesecake, along with all his beloved soul food comforts.

On the Treasures of Denver

The stunning stained glass windows at the Colorado State Capitol Building are a must for history enthusiasts visiting Denver. “What’s fascinating is that they feature several prominent African American figures from Colorado. I wonder how many places in the country can boast that,” Miller proudly remarks. He also recommends Red Rocks Park and Amphitheatre for its hiking and biking opportunities, especially during the fall when the aspens change color. “Nature really puts on a spectacular display in Colorado,” he adds.

On the Practices That Ground Him

Miller finds solace and grounding in his family church, prayer, and meditation. “To be honest, the pandemic really took a toll on me mentally, emotionally, and spiritually, so I can’t claim I maintained that practice consistently,” he admits. “However, it has given me a deeper appreciation for what it means to pause and reflect.”

Miller's go-to pie recipe for every holiday

Adrian Miller’s Lemon Icebox Pie

For Miller, who is renowned for his barbecue expertise, the ultimate comfort food that evokes the feeling of home is undoubtedly “Lemon Icebox Pie.” Picture a delightful blend of Key lime pie and lemon meringue—a dessert born of their union. “Although it’s typically a summer treat, we loved it so much that it graced our table at every holiday... It’s incredibly sweet and absolutely delicious,” Miller shares.

Ingredients:

2 egg yolks
1 (15 oz.) can sweetened condensed milk
1/2 cup lemon juice
1 tsp. grated lemon zest
1 unbaked 9-inch vanilla wafer crust
3 egg whites
1/2 cup sugar

Instructions:

Whisk the egg yolks until they become light and fluffy. Incorporate the sweetened condensed milk and continue beating until the mixture is fluffy and holds peaks. Gently mix in the lemon juice and grated lemon zest. Pour the filling into a crust made from crushed vanilla wafers combined with melted butter.

Whip the egg whites until they become frothy. Gradually add in the sugar, beating until the mixture is stiff. Carefully spread the meringue over the lemon filling, ensuring all edges are sealed. Bake at 350°F for 10 minutes. This recipe yields one 9-inch pie.