Adventure Awaits in a Hidden Gem of Japan

When travelers think of Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost and most untamed island, they often envision skiing in renowned resorts like Niseko and sipping the famous local beer in Sapporo, the capital of the prefecture.

While winter in Hokkaido is always appealing, the island is a worthy destination year-round. Last September, I visited the prefecture for a travel industry conference—the Adventure Travel Trade Association’s annual World Summit in Sapporo. The week before, eight attendees had the chance to explore one of Japan’s least known regions: the far east of Hokkaido.

In other regions of Japan, like Kyoto’s Gion district and around Mount Fuji, new regulations are restricting access due to overtourism. However, in eastern Hokkaido, you might spot fishermen drying kombu on the rocks at low tide or see sacred red-crowned cranes casually crossing the road, reminiscent of the Beatles on the cover of Abbey Road. This area boasts three national parks, abundant wildlife, insights into Indigenous Ainu culture, numerous onsen to relax in, and incredibly rich soft-serve ice cream, as Hokkaido is known for its dairy.

During my week-long journey, I was amazed by the variety of landscapes I encountered. I visited a volcano with such high sulfur levels that it causes local vehicles to rust. I hiked through ancient forests often frequented by Ussuri brown bears. I walked along a boardwalk that traverses Japan’s largest wetland area. From a dramatic cliff, I delighted in observing an otter in its natural habitat. Most evenings, I indulged in an onsen bath, as this region offers a wide range of pH levels and mineral compositions in its hot springs.

The journey provided a gradual, enriching dive into a lesser-known aspect of Japan that seems to elude most travelers.

Shiretoko National Park

The most breathtaking location I explored in eastern Hokkaido was the Shiretoko Peninsula, named after the Ainu term "siretok," meaning "end of the earth." This description holds true: the slender landmass extends into the Sea of Okhotsk, with most of it encompassed by Shiretoko National Park.

In 2005, this region was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site for its intricately connected ecosystem. During winter, extensive sea ice forms in the marine area, leading to nutrient-rich waters and phytoplankton blooms that support a variety of wildlife, including whales, seabirds, bears, and deer. (Like many places globally, the sea ice here faces threats from climate change.) Beyond the wildlife, visitors can wander through dense forests, towering cliffs, and a chain of volcanoes, including Mount Rausu, which features an 8.3-mile out-and-back hiking trail.

Before embarking on the trip, I was particularly eager to explore the park’s Five Lakes Walk, a path that meanders through ancient forests and provides vistas of the Shiretoko Mountains and five tranquil lakes. At the visitor center, our group was first given a comprehensive lecture on bear safety, accompanied by a video. (Additionally, numerous signs remind visitors that this is bear territory.) Before hitting the trail, everyone was instructed to use a wire brush to clean their shoes, ensuring no seeds or insects were inadvertently brought into the park. This was just one of many instances that highlighted the Japanese appreciation for nature.

The safety briefing ended up taking longer than the hike itself. Not long after we began, a few hikers approached us from the opposite direction, informing us they had spotted a bear, and as per park rules, the entire loop would be closed for several hours. Clearly, we were in bear territory! Fortunately, a lovely, though brief, wooden elevated walkway had been constructed for such occasions. Electric fencing kept humans safely distanced from our bear neighbors, allowing me to soak in the park’s natural splendor.

Shiretoko National Park was even more breathtaking from the water. Departing from the nearby coastal town of Rausu, I boarded a whale-watching boat that ventured into the heart of the Nemuro Strait. The excitement on board was palpable as everyone gasped with joy upon spotting a sperm whale surfacing for air; it lingered for a few moments before displaying its tail and diving down at least 2,000 feet to forage for food for the next hour.

The following day, I traveled as far north as possible to a small town called Aidomari. From there, I hopped on a fishing boat to the tip of Cape Shiretoko. The stunning cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and deep blue waters were made even more magnificent by the unexpected sighting of a mother bear fishing alongside her cubs.

Lake Akan (Akan Mashu National Park)

Approximately 100 miles southwest of Rausu lies Lake Akan, a vital center of Indigenous Ainu culture within Akan Mashu National Park. The highlight of my week was a guided walk around the lake with Kengo Takiguchi, an Ainu guide (from Anytime, Ainutime!) and talented wood carver. The Ainu people have lived in Hokkaido for centuries, long before the Japanese, traditionally following a hunter-gatherer lifestyle. Today, they maintain their distinct language, culture, and beliefs.

However, like many Indigenous communities worldwide, the Ainu continue to strive for recognition in contemporary Japanese society. It wasn’t until 2008 that the Japanese government officially acknowledged them as an Indigenous group. Currently, there are no definitive figures for the Ainu population; estimates range from 13,000 to 25,000, although the actual number may be much higher. Many individuals conceal their Ainu heritage due to economic and social marginalization, leading UNESCO to classify the Ainu language as “critically endangered.”

Takiguchi aims to combat discrimination against his community by sharing his culture with visitors. Wearing a jacket adorned with distinctive Ainu swirls, meant to repel evil spirits, he spoke about the animistic beliefs that shape their connection to the world. “We dislike words like abundance,” he stated. “All things belong to everyone, not just humans.” Everything possesses kamuy, or a divine spirit, and should be treated with care and respect. He picked a shikerebe berry, which comes from a cork tree, has a taste reminiscent of mandarin orange peel, and can aid in treating stomach issues. The bark, he explained, is useful for treating sores.

I later discovered, through the Adventure Travel Tourism Association, that at one point, private investors considered establishing a casino at Lake Akan to enhance tourism. This plan was ultimately abandoned in favor of a more nature-oriented approach to adventure tourism, which is what visitors experience today.

Mount Iō (Akan Mashu National Park)

The following day, I ventured 40 miles east to explore the fumaroles of Mount Iō, aptly named “sulfuric mountain.” Months later, the vibrant yellow stones, composed of pure sulfur, alongside billowing clouds of white smoke and bubbling hot springs remain etched in my memory. It felt like stepping onto the set of How the Grinch Stole Christmas. The sulfur levels are so high that not only does the air reek of rotten eggs, but, as my guide Kazuhiro Arai mentioned, most metal items in the area start to corrode within a few years. “Secondhand cars from here aren't worth much,” he quipped.

Back at the parking lot, situated near the most striking steam vents, I noticed a large concrete trench leading away from the volcano. Arai explained that in the event of another eruption, authorities designed a pathway for the lava to (ideally) flow through. Between the bear safety briefing and the lava route, I began to grasp how seriously the Japanese government takes safety.

From Mount Iō, I wandered along the Tsutsujigahara Nature Trail, where the sulfur smell gradually faded. Close to the volcano, only resilient shrubs that can tolerate high acidity thrived. During the 1.5-mile trek, I eagerly noted each new species of grass that emerged. Toward the end, I found myself surrounded by trees that couldn't survive in the harsher conditions near the volcano.

At the trail's conclusion, I stumbled upon one of the many public onsens scattered across Hokkaido. This particular one, the Kawayu Onsen Foot Bath, boasts a more acidic nature than apple cider vinegar—but Arai assured me that the water, with a pH of 1.5, is excellent for treating dead skin on feet. (I’m pleased to report that I left the onsen with both feet intact, albeit a little red.)

Kushiro-shitsugen National Park

The southernmost national park I explored in eastern Hokkaido was Kushiro-shitsugen, established in 1987 to protect Japan’s largest wetland and the endangered cranes that inhabit the area.

We stayed at Hotel Taito, owned by Masahiro Wada, a professional nature photographer. The hotel showcased stunning images of cranes, particularly captivating in winter when they gather at feeding sites and engage in their graceful dances.

I appreciated the wetland from the wheelchair-accessible wooden boardwalk that begins at the Onnenai Visitor Center, located on the park’s western boundary. This pathway gave me the sensation of gliding above a water body of unknown depth. At one point, Arai inserted a long pole deep into the marsh, and shortly after, his colleague Yuka Obitsu highlighted the nearby poisonous plants, such as water hemlock. I chose to stay centered on the path.

A great way to appreciate the park is by hiking to Cape Kirakotan, which requires special permission to access. You can obtain this permission through local hotels like Taito, tour operators, or by contacting the local Agency for Cultural Affairs. The trail winds through wild shrubs, where you might be fortunate enough to spot a Sika deer or, less favorably, a brown bear. The hike concludes at a viewpoint in the marsh’s “inner sanctum,” showcasing the intricate riverbeds that form the ecosystem.

To the east of the national park lies the Kiritappu Wetland. Although it isn't designated as a national park, it feels just as pristine as Kushiro-shitsugen. My group had the opportunity to canoe along the Biwase River, which supports nearly 200 bird species and various flowers, including iris, hydrangea, and sessilifolia. Kiritappu, meaning “place of fog,” features a cape of the same name, where I was fortunate to spot an otter.

Accommodation options

Throughout this journey, we stayed in locally owned ryokans, many of which offered excellent meals and onsen facilities.

I especially enjoyed Hotel Kifu Club Shiretoko, which boasts bright, spacious guest rooms and an engaging do-it-yourself tempura dining experience that was both fun and a bit challenging. Picture a fondue dinner where you first dip skewered vegetables or seafood into batter, then into a pot of boiling oil. The onsen facilities here are exceptional, featuring both a public indoor onsen and a private one under a starry sky. The hotel provides fantastic access to Shiretoko National Park and nearby Mount Rausu.

Near Kushiro lies the charming village of Tsurui, renowned for its population of endangered cranes, as well as its dairy and seafood products. Here, you can stay at Hotel Taito, a favorite among nature photographers aiming to capture the perfect shot of a red-crowned crane. Hotel Taito featured the most impressive onsen on my journey, where I learned that cold plunges aren’t so daunting when you can quickly follow them with a warm soak. Unlike the Kawayu Onsen Foot Bath, the water here is alkaline (with a pH of 9), leaving my skin feeling delightfully smooth. The restaurant served some of the freshest ice cream I’ve ever tasted.

Planning Your Trip

My adventure was organized by Adventure Hokkaido, a locally owned tour company offering trips across the six parks in the prefecture. Our guides, Kazuhiro Arai and Yuka Obitsu, were knowledgeable naturalists who patiently answered my questions about Japanese forestry, Ainu culture, and vegetarian dining options.

Given the remoteness of the parks and the limited English spoken in Hokkaido’s small towns, I highly recommend visiting this area with a Japanese speaker or a full-service tour operator. Public transportation options are sparse within and between the national parks, so having a private vehicle would ensure a smoother experience.

Our journey began in Kushiro, the largest city in eastern Hokkaido. Direct flights are available to Kushiro from Tokyo and Osaka, or you can take a three-hour train ride from Sapporo, the island’s capital. From Kushiro, our group took a bus that followed a clockwise route, stopping at Lake Akan, Mount Iō, Kushiro River, Shiretoko National Park, and Kiritappu.

In a nation famous for its bullet trains and sprawling cities, this journey served as a poignant reminder that Japan is far from uniform. I cherished the chance to explore such a variety of landscapes within a single week. Few places on Earth offer such close proximity to volcanoes, wetlands, and mountains, alongside a diverse array of wildlife. My encounters with the Ainu community at Lake Akan deepened my conviction that Indigenous knowledge is invaluable and should always be sought and respected.

What will likely linger with me the most from this trip—besides the intense sensory overload of Mount Iō—is Japan's profound respect for its natural treasures. Every park's visitor center was brimming with information about the region's flora and fauna, enhancing our understanding of what we were privileged to witness. We were continually reminded not to disturb the park's materials, avoid introducing harmful pathogens into the ecosystem, and maintain a respectful distance from wildlife. In essence, we were encouraged to enjoy the natural world while ensuring it remains untouched.