Al-Balad: The birthplace of Saudi Arabia's tourism industry

Today, Jeddah resembles many modern cities, with bustling shopping malls filled with international luxury brands, a vibrant café culture, and a walkable waterfront area where families gather on weekends.

However, the soul of the city, Al-Balad, is over a thousand years old and has been carefully preserved as a testament to Saudi Arabia’s history, particularly Jeddah’s significance as a major gateway for religious pilgrims.

'Saudi Arabia is one of the world’s most fascinating countries. It’s a bridge between East and West, connected to Africa. You can see that in Al-Balad,' says Sean Foley, professor of Middle East and Islamic history at Middle Tennessee State University.

'It’s a unique cultural crossroads, similar to cities like Singapore or Hong Kong. It’s a port city,' he adds.

Long before the rise of online travel booking platforms and tour buses full of selfie-stick-wielding tourists, Saudi Arabia’s second-largest city was already a thriving tourism destination.

From humble town to bustling city

One of the standout features of the buildings in Al-Balad – which translates to 'the town' in Arabic – is a distinctive form of wooden latticework known as rawasheen.

These wooden window coverings and balconies were not just decorative – though many are stunning, adorned with intricate patterns of circles, crescent moons, arrows, or stars, often painted in blue or green shades.

They served a practical purpose in desert life. Rawasheen (or rowshan in singular) blocked the harsh midday sun, while their slatted designs allowed cool breezes to flow through.

Beyond their beauty, these rawasheen – often crafted from materials not native to the region – reflect Jeddah’s vibrant and evolving culture.

'Jeddah's wealth came from the trade across the Red Sea to Egypt, a major market at the time,' explains James Parry, author of 'Jeddah Al Balad.'

'Jeddah's merchants acted as brokers, amassing great fortunes and building luxurious homes, outfitted with expensive imports like teak and mahogany from Southeast Asia, India, and East Africa,' he adds.

For a long time, the city was encircled by walls. As the population grew, space became scarce, prompting the construction of taller buildings, some reaching up to eight or nine stories.

One of the oldest and most iconic homes, once owned by the Nassif family and now a museum under Saudi government ownership, wasn’t just tall – its staircase was wide enough to allow a camel to carry water to the upper floors.

In the 7th century, a new need arose to divide buildings into separate homes or rooms: the influx of visitors.

It was during this time that Caliph Uthman ibn Affan declared Jeddah as the official port for pilgrims on their way to Mecca, Islam’s holiest site. Medina, the second holiest city, is also nearby.

'The significance of Balad, Jeddah, and the western regions of the Kingdom lies in the presence of Mecca and Medina, and the Hajj,' explains Foley. 'These areas connect outward to the world and host a diverse mix of communities.'

Things to see

The former Nassif family home, famous for its camel-width staircase, is now a museum called Bait (Arabic for 'house') Nassif. Visitors love snapping photos in front of the large tree that grows both in front of and through the building.

Other must-see landmarks in the area include the Shafi’i Masjid, Jeddah's oldest mosque, dating back to the 13th century, and the Bab Makkah, or Mecca Gate, one of the last remnants of the ancient city's walls.

But the simplest, and perhaps best, way to experience Al-Balad is to simply wander through its maze of narrow alleys.

The best times to visit are in the mornings and early evenings, as many businesses close during the peak heat of midday.

Need a break from your wanderings? Take a moment to relax in one of the neighborhood’s many charming cafes. Medd Café & Roastery features spotless tile floors, twinkling fairy lights on the ceiling, and English-speaking staff, with tea served in handmade local cups.

A short walk away is the Bait Alhodaif art gallery and artist studios, easily recognizable by its hand-painted Arabic script in bold red, blue, and black on the facade, along with a blue door inspired by the intricate designs of rawasheen.

The Revitalization of Balad

Many locals attribute the revitalization of Al-Balad to Mohammed Said Farsi, Jeddah's mayor from 1972 to 1986.

By the time he took office, the once-vibrant district had lost much of its former luster.

Over time, many homes were left to decay and fall into ruin. Buildings became unsafe, with many lacking basic utilities like electricity and water. As a result, local families relocated to modern neighborhoods that offered comforts like air conditioning and parking.

At one point in the 20th century, large-scale textile manufacturers moved into the district. They set up massive industrial sewing machines that rattled the fragile walls of Al-Balad, worsening existing structural damage.

Farsi, who hailed from an old Jeddah family and had a deep passion for Western art, channeled the city's resources into preserving Al-Balad's remaining buildings and successfully halted the demolition of several, according to Parry.

Farsi’s efforts proved successful.

In 2014, Al-Balad was recognized for its historical significance and added to the UNESCO World Heritage list as 'Historic Jeddah, the Gate to Mecca.'

Today, many of the best-preserved buildings feature shops, cafés, and various businesses on their lower levels.

While shopkeepers may now sport smartphones and Apple Watches, the narrow alleyways are still lined with traditional vendors selling rugs and spices.

Al-Balad remains a key gathering spot for Saudis, though in new ways. In December 2022, the music entertainment company MDLBEAST hosted a festival called 'Balad Beast.'

Over the course of two nights, Al-Balad's historic buildings were illuminated as artists like Busta Rhymes, Xzibit, and Lupe Fiasco performed alongside some of the most celebrated musicians from the Arab world.

Parry, the historian and author, who has visited Jeddah more than a dozen times, finds himself continually drawn back to Al-Balad.

“Though other cities, like Mecca, once had towering buildings, most of them have since disappeared. It’s only in Jeddah, particularly in Al-Balad, where you truly feel you're standing in a place steeped in history,” he adds.