An Adults-Only Tree House Experience Awaits in Montana

On the Blackfoot River in western Montana, it’s just me, my fly-fishing guide Greg, and a few elusive trout. We've been drifting in an Otter raft since the afternoon, but the fish remain unresponsive. As my line drifts, I take in the stunning scenery: towering ponderosa pines and the soothing sound of the flowing river, as families of mergansers, the tiniest ducks with wild bed-head, ride the current. Greg, a passionate young outdoorsman brimming with enthusiasm for nature and life, shares insights about the three trout species we’re after—rainbow, brown, and cutthroat—alongside stories of his family’s cookie business, Cookie Fix, famous on the Food Network.

Suddenly, the wind picks up, and whitecaps appear out of nowhere. "A river runs through it!" Greg shouts over the tumultuous rustling of tamarack trees, paddling vigorously against the waves. "The movie... and the resort," he adds, but the sudden storm captures his full attention. I put down my rod and brace myself for an unexpected rapids adventure.

Thirty minutes later, in calmer waters and thoroughly drenched, Greg clarifies his earlier remark: the Blackfoot River inspired Norman Maclean’s book A River Runs Through It and the acclaimed 1992 film that catapulted Brad Pitt to stardom, putting this rural Montana stretch on the map. The 130-mile river flows through the Resort at Paws Up, a luxury ranch located just east of Missoula, where I'll be staying for the next few days. Since June 2005, this expansive 37,000-acre retreat has been a favorite for affluent families eager to trade city life for glamping and cattle drives.

Montana has long been a dream destination for me; I’ve yearned for tranquility, stunning vistas, climbing routes, and hiking trails. For years, this 41st state was sidelined by my global adventures, but upon discovering the green o—a stylish, adults-only, intentionally lowercased wilderness retreat that opened in 2020 within the Paws Up universe—I realized it was time to make this destination a priority.

So here I am on a warm September afternoon with my guide Greg, admiring his flawless casting technique, waiting for his fly to dip (the sign that a fish is interested), reminiscing about his mom’s cookies, and sampling several local beers and ciders from the cooler. Paws Up boasts 105 guides on staff and can arrange solo or group half-day or full-day excursions any day of the week. Some days yield a metaphorical gold mine, while other days the fish may be elusive.

This isn’t the fly-fishing adventure I expected, but it’s still a remarkable journey down the river. In fact, Greg suggests we try again tomorrow—he's confident I’ll catch something—but as a first-timer, I’m completely satisfied with my initial Montana experience. Besides, there’s more to explore on my Montana bucket list and limited time to do it.

As someone always on the lookout for the ultimate blend of nature and luxury, I believe I've discovered it at the green o. The property features 12 standalone, Scandinavian-inspired “hauses,” tailored for couples nestled amidst the pine and tamarack forest, offering four modern designs. There’s a “tree haus” that reaches the treetops, a “round haus” (quite literally), a “light haus” equipped with star-gazing windows and two fireplaces, and a “green haus” with a central atrium—all boasting floor-to-ceiling windows, Wild-West-chic decor in leather and wrought iron, and plenty of room to explore. (Each haus averages around 1,000 square feet.) I chose a tree haus, a three-story, glass-walled, Tetris-like structure featuring a cylindrical spiral staircase, various viewing platforms, a cozy fireplace, and a hot tub on the ground level.

Guests at the green o enjoy exclusive access to the Social Haus, the main gathering spot centered around a fireplace and a kitchen-front bar, before and after indulging in Michelin-quality dining. Instagram-worthy dishes—such as a meatless celery-root Reuben, Dungeness crab crepes, and succulent burgers—are artfully crafted in an open kitchen where you can observe chef Brandon Cunningham and his team at work. In the evenings, it transforms into a dinner theater with nine-course tasting menus that vary nightly (though an in-room gourmet pizza option is always available if a relaxed dinner is more appealing). A recent dinner featured highlights like beet and huckleberry tartar, oil-poached cod with fennel, and grilled bison with peppers. An inclusive food and drink policy makes it tempting to indulge in another creative dish or a generous glass of champagne.

Beyond its stylish accommodations and outstanding cuisine, the true essence of Montana lies in its outdoor adventures. As the green o is essentially a resort within the larger Paws Up property, guests have the freedom to explore its expansive grounds and fully engage in its dude ranch activities and mountain experiences. It’s common for thrill-seekers to pack in two adventures a day: perhaps clay shooting, horseback riding, or hiking followed by ATV tours, rafting, archery, and guided fly-fishing—especially during the warmer months. In winter, options like snowmobiling, snowshoeing, and dog sledding await.

I had to resist the urge to over-schedule my activities. While fly-fishing and horseback riding were essentials, immersing myself in the Montana landscape—thoroughly and at my own pace—was equally important. Long strolls through the woods and even longer naps in my tree haus allowed me to embrace that. The power and beauty of nature were truly captivating. This is a place where peace and adventure call in perfect harmony.

On a day when I chose to skip an activity, I enjoyed some Sudden Wisdom Whiskey from the Montgomery distillery in Missoula, losing myself in the layers of green within the pine forest, when suddenly a large black bear appeared. It cautiously made its way through the thick brush to a clearing near my hot tub. Our eyes locked; I snapped a photo, took another sip, and then the bear wandered off.