An American in Greece: Navigating the Challenges of European Travel This Summer

American travelers heading to Europe this summer will encounter a complex and ever-changing set of Covid-related restrictions and registration demands. It's like the unpredictable mask mandates in the US, only with more paperwork and foreign languages involved. This was my reality during my Kafkaesque journey to Greece in June, where I was an eager yet underprepared American.

Would I do it again? Absolutely, without hesitation. But before you embark, here are the mistakes my husband and I made on our six-day European adventure (the most we could manage with two toddlers at home) so you can avoid them.

Arriving at a nearly empty Newark airport on a Sunday evening, the Lufthansa check-in agent informed us that even as fully vaccinated travelers, we wouldn't be allowed to leave the airport for Germany if we missed our connecting flight from Munich to Crete. However, there was an even bigger question: would we be allowed entry into Greece?

Earlier in the week, when my husband asked if any special paperwork was needed for entry into Greece, I told him no. In my rushed trip planning, I overlooked two important emails that revealed every traveler entering Greece must complete a Passenger Locator Form (PLF) and present the QR code generated upon its submission.

The form had to be submitted by 11:59 p.m. local time the day before our planned arrival in Greece, so we were forced to select Tuesday as our earliest possible entry date, despite having tickets for a Monday arrival in Heraklion.

With uncertainty hanging over us, we boarded our Lufthansa flight, which was surprisingly pleasant and almost reminiscent of pre-pandemic air travel, except for the masks and slightly reduced service. We crossed our fingers and hoped for the best.

It's worth mentioning here that traveling during the Covid era, especially internationally, is not for the faint-hearted. No matter how much you prepare, not everything will go smoothly. This is the reality of crossing borders in a world that's still grappling with the pandemic.

We traveled to Greece after it had reopened to Americans but before the U.S. was added to the EU's list of approved countries on June 18, which expanded travel options for both vaccinated and unvaccinated U.S. tourists. However, each country retains control over its own rules and restrictions, meaning traveling anywhere in Europe still requires careful research. Growing concerns over the Delta variant have also led to new restrictions in some places.

Confusing signals as the travel industry works to clarify the rules

Upon arriving in Munich, the reality of possibly being denied entry to Greece hit us. A customer service representative in Greece told me we wouldn't be allowed entry because we didn't have the necessary QR code for that day. Another complication: Bavaria, where Munich is located, mandates KN-95 masks, which we didn’t have.

That was likely the lowest moment: learning we had to buy uncomfortable new masks after a red-eye flight, unsure if we'd even make it out of the airport until the following day. We spent tense hours making calls and worrying about whether we'd ever reach the crystal-clear waters that had drawn us there.

After some back-and-forth between the gate agent at TUI and the ground staff in Crete, we were assured we'd be allowed entry. (We later discovered that the penalty for arriving without the QR code isn't being sent back, but instead having to take a Covid test at the airport.)

We finally made it to Greece. After a grueling 20-hour travel day, we arrived at the Blue Palace, a luxurious resort in the Elounda district of Crete, owned by the second generation of the Sbokou family, who were pioneers in Crete’s tourism and hospitality scene.

The hotel and its exceptional hospitality quickly made us forget the stressful journey. We arrived just in time for the golden hour—when the sun sets over the Aegean, and you sip a perfectly tart glass of rosé while savoring a Greek salad made with tomatoes that feel almost alive.

With an economy largely driven by tourism, Crete is doing everything it can to ensure visitors feel safe and welcome during their stay.

“The Covid regulations here are quite stringent,” explained Agapi Sbokou, CEO of Phaea Resorts, which operates five hotels in Crete, including the Blue Palace. She shared with me during lunch at Blue Palace just how much happens behind the scenes. “For example, glassware must be washed at a specific temperature,” she noted.

Masks are mandatory for staff at all times, even outdoors, and the adherence to this rule was flawless and unwavering. If the resort workers were bothered by wearing face coverings in the sweltering heat, which often exceeded 90°F, they didn’t let it show.

Exceptional Covid compliance standards are in place

The overall experience in Greece is that, despite a few hiccups on arrival, the country's warm hospitality feels even more genuine than ever. Greece, a nation deeply dependent on tourism, is clearly thrilled to welcome visitors, especially Americans.

Remember, Greece was one of the first European countries to reopen its doors to American tourists, and there's a genuine effort to make this season feel as 'normal' as possible while still respecting Covid protocols.

Travel is gradually picking up steam. Sbokou mentioned the hotel was at 50% capacity. On our full flight to Mykonos a few days later, it felt like at least a quarter of the passengers were American.

However, navigating Greece isn't always straightforward. Our planned four-hour ferry ride from Crete to Mykonos was suddenly canceled less than 24 hours before departure due to a workers' strike. In a way, it was oddly comforting to know that disruptions can happen for reasons other than the pandemic. We ended up flying with SkyExpress – their motto: 'Greece is Bliss.' And yes, at this point in our trip, I wholeheartedly agreed with their slogan.

In family-friendly Crete, Covid awareness and compliance were in full swing: Throughout the six days and six flights of our journey, the only time I heard a flight attendant remind a passenger to adjust her mask properly was on the flight from Athens to Mykonos. Everyone else seemed to follow the rules.

But what about Mykonos – one of the Mediterranean's most iconic party destinations, a place renowned for its hedonistic atmosphere? I was intrigued to see if the island's wild energy could still thrive in a world that’s not quite Covid-free.

Even in early June, Kalesma’s vibrant and enticing new restaurant, Pere Ubu, was buzzing with energy. Guests enjoyed dishes like braised lamb and fresh seafood while following the rule of limiting tables to six people, even in the open air.

Preparing for tourism’s recovery

During the first weekend of June, the island was notably calm. Mykonos didn’t feel deserted, but it also lacked the usual high-energy summer buzz. Locals mentioned that the island was only at around 40% of its typical capacity.

When I inquired about the store hours at the hotel, I was told, 'Not late, just until midnight.' Normally, during peak summer, Mykonos’ shopping hub stays open until 5 a.m. to cater to the 200,000-plus visitors who typically flood the island in pre-pandemic times.

The beach clubs, where prime sunbeds can be rented for €200, were still largely empty. Scorpios, the iconic Mykonos nightclub, opened on June 12 with a reservation-only policy this season.

However, these beaches will likely look quite different in July and August. With the recent EU approval for Americans to travel to Europe, it should ease intra-European travel. Additionally, from July 1, digital Covid certificates for EU citizens and residents were introduced, making travel within the EU more seamless. (Though the Delta variant may still complicate summer travel plans).

As guidelines are continually updated, professionals in the tourism industry are still adapting to the new rules. I came across hospitality workers who were unclear about the distinction between an antigen and a PCR test. While this isn’t a huge issue, it can become problematic if travelers discover at the last moment that they need a PCR test, which costs more and takes longer, possibly disrupting their travel plans.

When we were departing Crete, there was some confusion regarding whether we needed to confirm that we had taken a self-administered Covid test, which we hadn’t. In the end, no one requested that form (which we had quickly filled out, including our vaccinated status, in the pre-departure rush).

While these little mishaps may seem like minor annoyances and make for a good story, when combined, the maze of regulations could slow down the economic recovery.

Once again, I found myself asking the same question I had countless times during the pandemic when faced with situations that involved some level of Covid risk: “Is all this hassle really worth it?” Every time, I’ve returned to my own personal Covid mantra: “No one ever said navigating a global pandemic was going to be easy.”

This trip wasn’t exactly smooth or convenient, but it was definitely worth it to experience firsthand the vast, beautiful world beyond. I’d do it all over again (and soon). Next time, though, I’ll be more careful about reading the fine print.