Travelers Highlight the Beauty of Ukraine Before the War

Five weeks post the Russian invasion of Ukraine, the fighting persists as we watch, heartbroken and still somewhat in disbelief—regardless of whether we've traveled to Ukraine before. Over 4.1 million refugees have fled Ukraine since February 24, according to the United Nations, a number that continues to rise daily. Nearly 2.4 million have sought refuge in neighboring Poland, with others heading to Romania, Moldova, Hungary, and Slovakia, among other nations.

“The intensification of conflict in Ukraine has led to the destruction of civilian infrastructure, resulted in civilian casualties, and compelled individuals to flee their homes in search of safety. . . . They urgently require protection and support,” the United Nations Refugee Agency (UNHCR) stated in its latest report on the ongoing Ukraine refugee crisis.

Last week, President Biden committed $1 billion in humanitarian aid for those impacted by the war in Ukraine and announced plans to accept up to 100,000 Ukrainians and others escaping the conflict.

As we witness this humanitarian crisis unfold with horror, recent days have brought reminders from travelers of the happier times in Ukraine, before the invasion, when the destination left a lasting impression on the hearts and souls of its visitors.

“There was a time, not too many years ago, when Kyiv regularly welcomed my visits,” my brother, Paul-Andre Baran, owner of Anagram Brewing in Bucharest, Romania, recently shared with me. “The vivid memories that come to mind range from misty mornings wandering through the sleepy city, admiring the stunning green and gold of St. Sophia Cathedral, to late-night adventures into the beautifully adorned subway stations that now shelter many of the city's residents.”

He remarked that, instead of appearing “hard or damaged from their lengthy communist past,” he found the people of Ukraine to be “confident and hopeful for a future they are eager to shape.” Kyiv, he noted, was truly a hospitable capital city “that deserved its place among its European counterparts.”

My brother isn't the only one I know who has traveled in Ukraine. In 2017, while serving as a senior editor at Travel Weekly, I assigned Los Angeles-based writer, editor, and producer Eric Newman to explore Ukraine.

“When I took a river cruise through Ukraine in May 2017, it was a place where I could almost physically sense the weight of history,” Newman recalls.

Newman was part of one of the first river cruises traveling from Odessa to Kyiv after Russia's 2014 annexation of Crimea. “The atmosphere was so uplifting that as we arrived at the Kyiv port, we were welcomed by cheering crowds and a brass band playing the melodies of composer Vlodymyr Ivasyuk. That moment is etched in my memory, and it resonates differently now as I witness a country that once exuded warmth, joy, discovery (and incredible food!) now torn apart by war. But this will not be permanent. Ukraine is a nation that embodies resilience, and I look forward to the day when others can stroll through the streets of Odessa and Kyiv as I once did.”

Véronique Banzet, who operates the luxury travel service VeronicTravel, lived in Kyiv for five years and experienced the 2014 revolution firsthand. She remembers a Kyiv “adorned with the roofs of monasteries, alive with bustling restaurants, café terraces, and enchanted by the Opera and the Philharmonic hall.”

Banzet shares with Dinogo that Kyiv, Odessa, Chernivtsi, Lviv, and numerous other cities in Ukraine hold a special place in her heart these days. “We are utterly shocked and saddened,” Banzet expresses.

Four years ago, Loretta Becker from Cruise World Inc. explored Ukraine with her husband. “It was such an unforgettable experience,” she recalls. “We adore Ukraine and its people.”

Becker and her husband journeyed through Lviv, Kyiv, Odessa, and the Carpathian Mountains. “We fell in love with Lviv, the little Paris of Ukraine, with its charming sidewalk cafés and stunning churches,” Becker shares. “I was truly impressed by the beautiful architecture in Kyiv.”

During her travels, Becker participated in a Ukrainian cooking class, rented a sailboat for an afternoon to glide down the Dnieper River, explored Odessa’s hidden courtyards, and attended a ballet performance in Odessa.

“Since my husband has Ukrainian roots, visiting the land of his ancestors was a remarkable journey for us,” she reflects.

Ways for travelers to support Ukraine

Just over a month since the Russian invasion of Ukraine, assistance remains crucial. Travelers wishing to help refugees escaping Ukraine and those displaced within the country can contribute to organizations dedicated to supporting those affected.

United Nations Refugee Agency (UNHCR)

Founded in 1950, UNHCR provides essential services, including safe shelter, food, and medical supplies to those fleeing violence worldwide. The organization has operated in Ukraine since 1994 and is actively reaching out to Ukrainian refugees in Hungary, Poland, Romania, and Slovakia. The current response plan involves collaboration with emergency teams to meet the basic needs of the millions of refugees escaping Ukraine.

“Millions of individuals—primarily women and children—have been compelled to flee Ukraine. They seek refuge in underground train stations, walk hundreds of miles, and leave behind everything familiar,” the agency states in its latest report on the situation in Ukraine.

To make a donation: give.unrefugees.org

UNICEF

This organization dedicated to safeguarding children worldwide estimates that 2 million children have fled Ukraine, with over 2.5 million more displaced within the country.

“Children escaping the conflict in Ukraine face an increased risk of human trafficking and exploitation,” UNICEF warns.

UNICEF is committed to delivering crucial services to vulnerable children and families, including access to clean water, food, healthcare, education, and protection.

To make a donation: unicefusa.org

International Rescue Committee (IRC)

Founded in 1933, the IRC addresses humanitarian crises in over 40 countries worldwide. The organization is currently focused on providing evacuation services for those trapped by the conflict in Ukraine and supplying essential items for those forced to flee. In Poland, IRC offers legal assistance, social work, interpretation services, and psychological support to Ukrainian refugees.

To contribute: help.rescue.org

World Central Kitchen

Chef José Andrés's nonprofit, dedicated to humanitarian food assistance, has established operations in Poland, providing hot meals at eight border crossings across the nation. The organization also supports local eateries in Ukrainian cities like Odessa, Lviv, and Kyiv, and distributes meals in Romania, Moldova, and Hungary.

To contribute: donate.wck.org