An introductory guide for newcomers to Gran Canaria, Spain

Ross Clarke has just returned from Gran Canaria, where he was gathering information for the upcoming Canary Islands guidebook (set to publish in November 2024). This guide aims to assist you in planning your trip to the third-largest island in the Canaries.

Upon arriving in Gran Canaria or sailing its scenic coastline to dock at one of its ports, you'll quickly grasp why this island has fascinated visitors for centuries.

Known as 'the continent in miniature' for its varied landscapes and 'the land of eternal spring' for its pleasant climate, Gran Canaria has a rich history. The indigenous people, prior to the Spanish arrival, called it 'Tamaran,' and their heritage is reflected in the island's ancient cave dwellings and artifacts.

Gran Canaria is the third-largest island of the archipelago, emerging from the ocean floor approximately 14 million years ago. While often compared to its neighboring island, Tenerife, each island offers unique experiences.

Gran Canaria is widely recognized for its stunning beaches and resorts, especially in the south at Maspalomas, which includes the famous Playa del Inglés. While the sun, sand, and surf are remarkable, this enchanting island offers much more, including rich history and culture, breathtaking landscapes, natural wonders, and exceptional cuisine and wine.

When is the best time to visit Gran Canaria?

For many years, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria was celebrated as the city with the finest climate in the world, thanks to its mild temperatures and minimal rainfall. Interestingly, Gran Canaria features a unique microclimate, providing hot, dry conditions in the sunny south, cool and crisp weather in the mountainous interior, and humid, overcast days in the north.

Gran Canaria is a favorite destination for winter sun, with beaches bustling with tourists even in January—though you might not see locals sunbathing until after April. The winter season also brings numerous festivities, including one of the world’s largest carnivals in February, featuring island-wide parties, parades, and vibrant costumes.

Summer attracts crowds as temperatures can soar to 30°C (86°F), but with over 60 km (37 miles) of coastline, you can often find a tranquil spot on the beach. Both autumn and spring offer ideal conditions for exploring, with lower prices and fewer tourists, making them great times to visit.

What is the recommended duration for a stay in Gran Canaria?

Gran Canaria is perfect for a thrilling city escape over a long weekend, a week of beach relaxation, or a more extended visit. It's particularly popular among remote workers seeking to blend productivity with the island's relaxed vibe.

If you're spending a week here, you'll likely want to soak up the sun (and who could blame you?). While the dunes of Maspalomas are stunning, consider exploring quieter spots like Melenara near Telde or the secluded Playa Güigüí. Though it requires a bit of hiking, the untouched sands and the chance for a perfect tan make it worthwhile! Once you're sun-kissed, think about renting a car to explore the island's interior, where you’ll encounter aromatic Canarian pine forests, local vineyards, and majestic volcanic structures like Roque Bentayga, revered by the island's ancient inhabitants.

If you're disembarking from a cruise or enjoying a city getaway, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria – its full name – stands as Spain's eighth largest city, radiating a vibrant cosmopolitan atmosphere. A culinary paradise, the city boasts an exciting restaurant scene, ranging from delightful Canarian dishes at the beachfront Mar Gastrotasca to exquisite dining at Muxgo, the island's first Green Michelin Star restaurant that champions a 0km (0 mile) food philosophy. Be sure to visit the stunning Las Canteras beach, safeguarded by a natural barrier reef that gives its waters a pool-like quality. The historic neighborhoods of Vegueta and Triana also beckon, inviting exploration of their charming streets and museums.

How accessible is Gran Canaria for visitors?

The island is served by one main airport, Gran Canaria Airport (LPA), located roughly midway along the east coast, accommodating both international and domestic flights. Getting from the airport to major resorts is convenient via bus, taxi, or rental car.

The bus system is comprehensive, connecting all corners of the island. Operated by Guaguas Global, these economical and dependable buses can be easily identified by their yellow color in the capital. Single fares start at €1.40.

Renting a car is an excellent way to discover the island. Prices are typically reasonable, though they may rise during peak times, so early booking is recommended. Consider choosing a local provider like Cicar or Tirma. While it's possible to drive around the island in a single day due to its compact size, taking your time and planning your routes will ensure you don’t overlook any hidden gems. Remember to refuel before venturing inland, as the steep, winding mountain roads can drain your tank faster than expected.

You can board ferries and high-speed catamarans from the ports in Las Palmas and Agaete to visit nearby islands like Tenerife.

Three must-try activities in Gran Canaria

1. Experience the mesmerizing waves of sand

The undulating, ever-changing dunes of Maspalomas are a must-see for anyone visiting. These stunning golden sand mountains existed long before the surrounding resorts were developed. In recent years, the Canarian government has implemented strict regulations to safeguard these natural wonders. You can explore dedicated walking routes that lead to various areas, including tranquil oases and the La Charca nature reserve, home to migratory birds. For breathtaking views, visit the panoramic Atelier Cocktail Bar atop the Bohemia Suites hotel.

2. Ascend the Roques

The island features two iconic monoliths in its center that are definitely worth exploring. The more renowned, Roque Nublo, towers at 80m (262ft) and rises nearly 2000m (6561ft) above sea level. The hike to this rock is quite accessible, taking about 30–40 minutes to complete.

Alternatively, consider climbing Roque Bentayga. This site served as the final stronghold for the island’s original inhabitants, and its elevated position offers breathtaking views of the surrounding volcanic crater. At the summit, you'll find carvings and mysterious holes in the stone that intrigue historians.

3. Stroll through the historic district of Las Palmas

No trip to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria is complete without wandering through the charming historic streets of Vegueta. Climb the bell towers of the magnificent Catedral Metropolitana de Santa Ana de Canarias for stunning views of the city, ocean, and surrounding rooftops. Nearby, visit the Museo Canario to discover the history of the island’s original inhabitants, including a rather eerie skeleton room filled with actual mummified remains. Conclude your visit at Terraza Belvédère, where you can savor a local wine on the rooftop overlooking Santa Ana Square.

My favorite activity in Gran Canaria

I have a passion for markets, and Gran Canaria offers a fantastic variety, from craft and artisan stalls to food and agricultural showcases. One of my favorites, which I frequented while living in Las Palmas, is the weekend market in Vega de San Mateo. It features two large warehouses brimming with vendors. One is dedicated to crafts, but my preference is the agricultural warehouse. I enjoy browsing the stalls and chatting with the vendors, who often let you sample their baked goods or sniff their spices. There’s usually a stall offering truchas de batata – sweet potato pastries – that I can’t resist. It’s also a great place to find unique, non-touristy souvenirs like seeds, herbs, and sauces.

Another favorite of mine is the weekend market in Teror, renowned for two main highlights: the church honoring the island’s patron saint, Virgen del Pino, and the famous chorizo de Teror, a delicious spreadable chorizo paste. Numerous stalls offer bocadillos (huge rolls) generously spread with chorizo de Teror and fresh cheese.

What’s a good budget for Gran Canaria?

Gran Canaria can be quite economical if you avoid the typical tourist traps. The currency is the Euro (€), and most establishments accept credit and debit cards. While cash usage has declined recently, it’s wise to have some Euros on hand for transactions in less touristy areas.

• Hotel room: €50–250 per night

• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): €75–100 per night

• Bus ticket: €2.50

• Coffee: €1.50

• Tapas for two: €25–40

• Beer/glass of wine: €3

• Bottle of local wine: €15–30

Is this a good destination for families?

The people of the Canary Islands are very fond of children, and it's common to see families of all generations—grandparents to infants—socializing together late into the night. Don’t be surprised if locals engage with your kids before addressing you; the island is notably family-friendly.

Is Gran Canaria a welcoming destination for gay travelers?

Gran Canaria is one of the top destinations for the LGBTIQ+ community. The island and its residents are incredibly accepting, providing a safe space for everyone. Each year, the famous Winter Pride takes place in Playa del Inglés, centered around the Yumbo Centrum—the only LGBTIQ+ shopping center in the world—featuring bars, shops, restaurants, and clubs.

What does calima refer to?

On certain days in Gran Canaria, you may experience very hot air along with fog or mist. This phenomenon is called calima—the warm winds that sweep in from the nearby Sahara Desert, bringing sand dust with them. While it’s not harmful, it can make outdoor conditions uncomfortable.