An introductory guide to Troyes, France

In Troyes (pronounced: trwa), the smallest and most upstream of the four cities along the Seine River, you'll discover enough wonders to keep you entertained for at least three days.

Be amazed by the largest collection of vibrant, medieval half-timbered houses in France, totaling 3,000. Marvel at stunning stained glass windows—some of the finest in the world, showcased in a dedicated museum—and explore the fascinating MOPO museum, which highlights tools, trades, and crafts through the ages. Enjoy exceptional modern art and indulge in shopping at factory outlets. After a day of exploration, unwind with some Champagne—Troyes is the capital of the Aube department, responsible for a quarter of the region's renowned bubbly.

Use this guide to plan your trip to Troyes, covering everything from accommodations to must-see attractions and activities.

When is the best time to visit Troyes?

Any time is great to visit. When the weather is warm and sunny, enjoy strolling through the old city, known as Le Bouchon (the cork) due to its shape resembling a champagne cork lying on its side, with the head shaped by the Seine facing east. A canal with fountains runs through the cork from north to south. West of this canal, the ancient city walls outline the parallel sides of the cork’s body.

In less favorable weather, stay warm and dry while visiting the churches and museums, or savor the local specialty, andouillette de Troyes (chitterlings sausage), at one of the many restaurants.

At the end of October, don't miss the six-day Nuits de Champagne (Champagne Nights) music festival.

How much time should I spend in Troyes?

Spending two or three days is perfect for exploring Troyes. Although Le Bouchon is compact (2km/1.2 miles from east to west and 820m/2690ft north to south), you can easily devote half a day to strolling along its pedestrian-friendly streets, taking in the vibrant medieval half-timbered houses. Pay special attention to the Maison des Chanoines, located at the intersection of rue Émile Zola (the main shopping street) and rue Turenne; its front door is on the first floor because the house was relocated here in 1969, built on a modern concrete base to align its roof with others on the street. It turns out moving half-timbered houses is quite feasible as long as you label all the beams and reassemble them correctly!

Make sure to check out the narrowest street, the ruelle des Chats (cat street). Contrary to what its name suggests, it has nothing to do with cats; it's actually a historical misspelling. It should have been named ruelle des chas (eye of a needle street), which is more fitting given its narrowness.

With three days in Troyes, you'll have the chance to explore eight stunning churches and at least two museums, with extra time to shop or venture 25km (16 miles) east to Lac de la Forêt d’Orient. This is the largest of three artificial lakes created to manage the Seine river's flow and prevent flooding in Paris. The lake is a paradise for anglers, birdwatchers, and water sports fans.

Is it convenient to travel to and within Troyes?

Traveling from Paris Gare de l’Est to Troyes takes about 90 minutes and costs €33, with 16 trains available each day. The train station is located at the western edge of Le Bouchon, making it a quick and easy walk into the city center, which is best explored on foot.

For those who prefer cycling, bicycles can be rented from La Maison du Vélo at the train station for €6 a day for a traditional bike, €8 for a tandem, and €15 for an electric bike. It’s advisable to reserve ahead during the summer, either by phone (03 25 70 72 08) or via email ([email protected]). Child carriers and helmets are also available for rent.

If you’re driving, you can take the A5 east from Paris (178km/111 miles, approximately 2.5 hours from central Paris) or head south via the A34 and A26 from Belgium and the Netherlands. There’s a large, free outdoor parking area in front of Le Cube, the Troyes exhibition center, located just beyond the south-west corner of Le Bouchon. From there, it’s an easy 700m (2297ft) walk to the historic city center.

The tourist office and local hotels can provide a walking tour map that highlights all the major attractions. The route is marked with small bronze triangles featuring a knight templar engraving embedded in the pavement for easy navigation.

What are the top activities to enjoy in Troyes?

Approximately 40% of the world’s stained-glass windows, some dating back 850 years, can be found in Troyes and its surrounding Aube department. Even if your time is limited, be sure to visit a few of these remarkable sites.

Begin your exploration at the western end of Le Bouchon, where the train station and Le Cube parking area are located. If you have the time, make your first stop the baroque gem of Troyes: Église St-Pantaléon, known for its impressive height, abundant light, and stunning statues.

The church's narrow nave makes the 28m (92ft) high chestnut-wood barrel-vaulted ceiling appear incredibly lofty. The glass windows, adorned with grey-toned artwork, illuminate the 17th-century upper nave, creating an airy atmosphere. Most astonishingly, over 60 statues grace the interior, many of which were relocated here after the French Revolution, rather than created specifically for the church.

Some statues originated from closed religious sites, while others were salvaged from two churches in Troyes that were completely destroyed during the Revolution: the Notre Dame aux Nonnains abbey and the St Etienne collegiate church. For the latter, Florentine artist Dominique le Florentin (1501–1570), who had come to France to work at Fontainebleau Palace, created several sculptures that now reside in St-Pantaléon.

Next, proceed north, passing the unusual open-air belfry of the St-Jean-au-marché church, where King Henry V of England wed Catherine of France, and continue to Troyes' oldest church, Ste-Madeleine. This church features one of only 21 rood screens remaining in France. This stunning stone partition, crafted in the early 16th century, is adorned with elaborate flamboyant sculptures that were originally brightly colored before being whitened in the 18th century. The 20-minute audio guide is highly recommended.

Continue north and west, navigating through the ruelle des Chats, to reach the St-Urbain basilica. After being repurposed as a grain silo and then a general store during the French Revolution, it has reclaimed its status as a Gothic architectural gem, often likened to Sainte Chapelle in Paris due to its stunning stained glass. On sunny days, the vibrant colors dance across the stone walls and pillars, bringing them to life.

Cross the Trévois canal and keep an eye out for the statue of a dog that leapt through the bridge railings in pursuit of geese. This leads you to La Cité du Vitrail, a stained glass museum that opened in mid-December 2022. Unlike in churches, where you strain your neck to see the windows, here you can appreciate the craftsmanship at eye level and learn about the art of stained glass making.

Directly behind the Cité du Vitrail, enter through the grand black and gold wrought iron gates to discover a charming medicinal herb garden, one of several similar gardens recently established in Troyes.

Continue west for 350m (1148ft) to arrive at the single-towered Cathédrale St-Pierre et St-Paul, which was only completed with one tower due to budget constraints. It boasts an impressive 1500 sq m (16,146 sq ft) of stained-glass windows, some of the most extraordinary in France. On sunny days, the colorful light reflects off the light Burgundy stone of the soaring Gothic pillars, which rise to a height of 29.5m (97ft). Don’t overlook the Treasure house, a low-vaulted room to the right of the nave, considered one of the country’s top church treasures by experts.

Adjacent to the cathedral lies the Musée d’Art Moderne, which reopened in 2022 following a four-year renovation. Established in 1982, it showcases the remarkable collection of Pierre and Denise Lévy, wealthy textile industrialists with a keen eye for art. Notable artists on display include Ernst, Dufy, Millet, Rodin, Degas, Courbet, Gauguin, Matisse, and Braque, among others.

Troyes made its fortune from textiles long before Champagne became famous, evidenced by the many old factory chimneys in the area. It was also the birthplace of the first factory outlets. Today, the McArthurGlen Troyes Designer Outlet stands as a major shopping destination, accessible via bus 1 from Troyes train station or bus 12 from the city center, or by car—located 8km (5 miles) northwest of the Le Cube parking area.

My favorite activity in Troyes

While I'm not particularly handy with home repairs or tools, I find myself captivated by the Maison de l’Outil et de la Pensée Ouvrière, affectionately known as MOPO, the Tools and Trades museum.

MOPO features an impressive collection of over 12,000 handmade tools from the 17th to 19th centuries, elegantly arranged in 65 themed displays divided into four categories: wood, iron, animal, and mineral. Its resource center, home to more than 32,000 historical and contemporary reference books, is the second-largest technical library in France. Although the museum's explanatory panels are in French, an excellent audio guide is available in English and other languages. It provides a concise introduction to the exhibits and detailed insights on selected tools. If you prefer a shorter visit, you can skip the more in-depth commentary.

What is the estimated budget for a trip to Troyes?

Troyes is quite budget-friendly for travelers. Entry to all churches is free, with visiting hours starting at 9:30 AM, closing for lunch from 12:30 PM to 2 PM, and ending at 5 PM in winter and 6 PM from April 1 to October 31.

During the winter months (November 1–March 31), admission to the Modern Art Museum is free, and this is also true year-round for visitors under 26. Otherwise, the entry fee is €7. All museums offer free admission on the first Sunday of each month. The Cité du Vitrail charges €4 (€5 for temporary exhibitions) and is free for those under 26, while MOPO costs €8 (€4 for ages 12–18, free for children under 12). An audio guide is available for just €1.

Accommodations in Troyes cater to all budgets, from luxurious stays to youth hostels. For those seeking high-end independent options, consider the stunning 5-star La Maison de Rhodes (starting at €300 per night), its nearby 4-star counterpart Le Champ des Oiseaux (from €230 per night), or the charming guesthouse Maison M (priced between €140 and €180, breakfast included).

Eco-conscious travelers will appreciate the Ibis Styles hotel (around €88, breakfast included), the first in France to earn the low-energy building BBC (Bâtiment Basse Consommation) certification. Budget travelers can find affordable options like the Troyes-Rosières youth hostel, which charges €18 per night and is a 25-minute ride on bus 8 from the city center (with a ticket costing €1.35).

For those who prefer self-catering accommodations, the average nightly rate in the historic city center is approximately €102.

An overview of typical daily expenses in Troyes

Lunch for two: €15 Mid-range three-course meal: €60 Pint of local beer: €6 0.33 liter bottle of imported beer: €2.50

Welcome to Champagne! At Chez Philippe (11 rue Champeaux), you can sample three varieties of Champagne for just €15. Alternatively, mingle with the locals at Le Millésimé (7 Place St Rémy), a tapas bar focused on Champagne. At Aux Crieurs de Vin (2 place Jean Jaures), select your favorite bottle of Champagne or wine from the cellar and savor it alongside a simple charcuterie and cheese platter. The cost will vary based on your chosen bottle.