Antigua, Guatemala: One of Central America's Most Chic Getaways — Discover Where to Stay, Shop, and Dine

On any lengthy hike, there comes a moment of reflection when you question the wisdom of your decision. During a two-day journey to the summit of Acatenango, Guatemala's third-highest volcano, this realization hit hard as my girlfriend, Erin, and I reached the trailhead.

It was a mild March morning in the dry season. Surrounded by vibrant jacaranda trees in full bloom, we looked up at the towering 13,045-foot Acatenango. The climb promised an exploration of Guatemala’s diverse landscapes, traversing from agricultural land to cloud forests and finally to the volcanic crater.

Like many adventurers who embark on this climb, Erin and I were primarily enticed by the unique experience awaiting us near the summit: camping on a ledge with a view of the neighboring Fuego volcano, Central America's most active volcano, known for its stunning displays of lava lighting up the night sky.

We anticipated a challenging ascent, yet it was precisely the kind of endurance test that Erin and I enjoy while traveling. Still, years of hiking hadn’t readied us for this trail, which climbed steeply without a single curve to ease the incline, vanishing into the clouds. Each step caused our feet to sink into loose scree, making us slide back a few inches — feeling less like hiking and more like running in quicksand. Within minutes, I was out of breath. After an hour, the thought of why we ever signed up for this adventure was replaced by a more pressing concern: Would we actually reach the top?

Guatemala captivates those seeking adventure, from backpackers lured by its surreal landscapes to history buffs fascinated by ancient Mayan ruins, and anyone drawn to its 37 volcanoes that spark a primal urge. However, hiking Acatenango stood out in our journey as a rugged finale to an enlightening week spent exploring the contrasts between Lake Atitlán to the west and Antigua to the east. Both destinations have long been favorites among travelers, now offering a glimpse into Guatemala — a country rich in complexity and dichotomy — eager to be appreciated for both its extremes and its laid-back, earthy charm.

The drive from Guatemala City to Lake Atitlán brought back memories of my visit eight years ago. I recalled how the country quickly wraps around you, merging past and present and making your origins feel a distant memory. Once the heart of Mayan civilization, Guatemala was later claimed by Spain and Mexico. Nearly half of its 18 million residents identify as Indigenous, blending their traditions with Roman Catholicism to create a unique cultural tapestry that defines daily life.

As we left the crowded streets behind, we entered lush rural landscapes, winding along highways filled with pickups flaunting ornate chrome grilles and sputtering motorbikes carrying women in traditional Mayan attire riding sidesaddle. After navigating a series of thrilling switchbacks, we finally reached the lake. Surrounded by three volcanoes and over 1,000 feet deep in parts, it feels like a place where the universe was just born. We paused at Casa Palopó, a hotel where I had spent a brief but unforgettable few hours on my last visit. Once a charming stucco home, it now features six additional rooms added in 2017 and a villa perched on a hillside, making it an outlier in a country where most accommodations cater to backpackers and tour groups. The next morning, we took a small boat across the lake to San Juan La Laguna, one of the many Mayan villages along the shore. From the water, the villages appeared like confetti scattered through the jungle, sharply contrasting with the opulent estates we had observed during our drive.

Such stark contrasts are unsettling but not unusual in a country plagued by poverty, where deep-seated inequalities ignited a brutal civil war from 1960 to 1996. These tensions remain tangible, and we learned they contribute to a wave of Guatemalan citizens seeking to leave. However, we also came to realize the frustration expressed by many during our visit — that the country has been unfairly portrayed in popular culture, with far too few recognizing its rich heritage, diverse activities, and the warm hospitality found everywhere you go.

San Juan La Laguna buzzed with energy as we arrived: meat sizzling on makeshift grills in the unpaved alleys; women in beautifully embroidered huipils balancing bundles of firewood on their heads; young men selling homemade candies from burlap sacks. The main street, once the center of cacao trade until the mid-1500s, was dotted with galleries displaying local art. Café San Juan seemed like just a quaint coffee shop, but behind it lay a small farm offering hands-on insights into coffee production: small plants in different blooming stages, beans being harvested, sun-dried, and finally roasted and bagged. It served as a miniature representation of the country’s economy — a refreshing reminder that authenticity remains more than just a marketing buzzword.

Further up the street, after visiting a shop focused on medicinal plants, we stepped into the Codeas Women’s Weaving Cooperative, where beautifully crafted textiles were made by local Mayan women. One artisan shared an impromptu lesson on how cotton is harvested, spun, and dyed using natural local materials: avocado bark yields a smoky brown, rosemary leaves produce a bright green, and crushed roly-poly bugs create a deep crimson.

Before long, we were back on the boat, heading across the lake for lunch in San Marcos, a haven for hippies since the 1970s that has recently captivated urban wellness enthusiasts and those curious about ayahuasca. We zipped up a steep path in a tuk-tuk, navigating around chickens and stray dogs, until we reached a dead end shrouded in thick foliage. Despite the well-trodden paths, just a quarter-mile in, we stumbled upon La Casa Zapote.

The hotel’s unpainted cinder block exterior and exposed rebar gave it an unfinished look, but stepping inside revealed a columned courtyard housing an Italian restaurant, El Artesano. With a few rustic outdoor tables shaded by a corrugated metal roof, it specializes in artisanal boards of cheeses and cured meats crafted by chef Dietrich Gantenbein, a local of Swiss descent who has long been part of the community. As we enjoyed a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, we lost track of time grazing on the delicious offerings. We returned to the hotel as daylight faded into dusk.

These unhurried, unexpected moments unveiled one of the most profound insights during my visit to Guatemala. On my previous journey, I found myself constantly racing from one attraction to the next, a common approach for many travelers. While that style of travel can be exhilarating, this time I discovered that much of the country’s charm stems from a mystical, almost magnetic quality that reveals itself when you take the time to slow down, savor the experience, and embrace each moment. After three days at Casa Palopó, each marked by a breathtaking sunset, Erin and I felt a joyful exhilaration that would only deepen in the days to come.

Established in the early 16th century, Antigua was Guatemala’s capital for nearly 250 years. In 1773, following numerous earthquakes, floods, and volcanic eruptions, the Spanish moved to what is now Guatemala City. In 1979, Antigua was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its appeal lies in the enchanting feeling that little has changed since the Spanish departed: the intricate Baroque architecture, the beautifully maintained public squares, and the winding markets where you can easily lose track of time—all emerging from the same charming, elegant grid.

We were guests at Villa Bokéh, a chic establishment that opened on the outskirts of town in 2021. It is an oasis of elegance at the end of a long, jade vine-shaded driveway. Behind a massive wooden door lies the main hacienda, a striking whitewashed estate overlooking a serene pond. In the distance, I caught sight of Volcán de Agua, the towering volcano that dominates the skyline above the city.

Villa Bokéh, originally designed as a family residence by American photographer Mitchell Denburg and his Guatemalan wife, artist Lissie Habie, underwent a meticulous transformation into a hotel during the pandemic. Grupo Alta, the same local hospitality company managing Casa Palopó since 2010, led this conversion. Just a week before Erin and I arrived, the last of its 15 rooms was finished—each room uniquely reflecting the country's cultural heritage.

After settling into our spacious upper-floor suite, I had the pleasure of meeting Claudia Bosch, president of Grupo Alta, in one of the main areas adjacent to the expansive patio. As we enjoyed our aperitifs, she emphasized her vision of the properties as more than luxurious accommodations; they serve as a means to reshape Guatemala's image.

"When you mention Mexico or Costa Rica, people readily suggest places to visit. However, when it comes to Guatemala, the first reaction is often a caution about safety," she remarked with frustration. Despite understanding this response, especially given ongoing drug-related crime in certain western regions, Bosch conveyed her exasperation with how much of Guatemala remains misjudged. "We're referred to as a hidden gem," she continued. "But honestly, we're weary of being 'hidden.'"

This feeling seems to echo as the unofficial motto of Antigua, a city that, despite its historical charm, is far from frozen in time. That evening, Erin and I strolled through streets adorned with grand architecture, eventually discovering the sleek dining area at Quiltro.

Rodrigo Salvo, the tall and affable chef at Quiltro, approached our table at the meal's outset. He shared that the restaurant embodies his deep connection to Guatemala. A native of Chile, he chose to settle in Antigua after his global travels and a stint at Noma, the renowned foraging hotspot in Copenhagen. "Guatemala offers a perfect climate, and there's a slow, artisanal rhythm to life here," he noted. "That’s what drew me in."

What followed was a 12-course extravaganza of remarkable small plates: pickled mango sprinkled with black salt, sea bass accompanied by chicharrones made from crispy fish skin, and cauliflower swimming in a creamy pool derived from caramelized cauliflower. While meals in larger cities can often come across as pretentious, this experience radiated genuine passion. At one point, Erin, a food enthusiast who typically shuns modern culinary trends, found herself moved to tears between bites. "It sounds wild," she remarked, "but you can really taste how much this means to him."

Cuisine like this is no longer a rarity in Antigua, where emerging chefs are establishing a unique identity that stands apart from the traditional backpacker cafés and formal white-tablecloth venues. The next day—after exploring boutiques like Que Onda Vos, which features home goods crafted by Belgian designer Hanne De Wyngaert in collaboration with Guatemalan artisans—we enjoyed lunch at Nana. This restaurant and vintage clothing shop, which opened during the pandemic, is undeniably trendy, boasting mid-century cane-backed chairs and a stylish bar draped in hanging ferns, contrasting beautifully with the rustic courtyard. The dishes and drinks were a revelation compared to my previous visit: red-snapper crudo with pickled beets and miso crumble, house-made sourdough served with a fresh pea hummus, and an exquisite rum sour with a subtle hint of wasabi.

"I’m not sure this concept would have thrived five years ago," remarked Rodrigo Aguilar, the chef and owner of Nana. His first venture was Kombu, a ramen shop designed for backpackers. However, after gaining experience at New York’s WD-40, Aguilar aimed to bring that culinary magic back to his homeland. The pandemic offered him and his wife, Sharon Azañon, who runs the vintage boutique, a chance to reimagine Nana. "Instead of catering to what tourists or affluent visitors from Guatemala City might want for the weekend, we had the opportunity to focus on our own vision," he explained. "Nana embodies that spirit—we create what we love and welcome you in, which has not typically been the approach to hospitality in this country."

As we chatted, I couldn't help but notice one of Aguilar’s tattoos: a landscape spanning his forearm, which turned out to depict the view from the summit of Tajumulco, Guatemala's tallest volcano. Despite being surrounded by volcanoes at every turn, in our relaxed daze, I had forgotten that Erin and I were set to leave for Acatenango the following morning, just a few miles from our current location. I mentioned this to Aguilar and asked if he had any advice to share.

"Oh, there’s truly nothing like it," he said, a mischievous sparkle in his eye. "But I must warn you: it's going to be incredibly tough."

Just when I felt utterly spent on our hike, teetering on the edge of giving up and rolling back down, the scenery shifted dramatically, as it often does in Guatemala. The harsh terrain we had traversed that morning transformed into a lush cloud forest filled with towering ferns and moss-covered trees. The steepness remained relentless, yet the moist ground provided solid footing, completely altering the experience.

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"That first stretch is the toughest," our guide, Mario Ramirez, remarked as we absorbed a view stretching to the Pacific coastline. "The remainder won’t be easy, but it will be manageable."

A lively man exuding positive energy, Ramirez collaborates with Trek Guatemala while also offering his own guided tours of Acatenango. His expertise was evident in the paths he selected, which kept us apart from other hiking groups and provided an enchanting feeling of having the volcano all to ourselves.

After about five hours of relentless uphill trekking, we reached the campsite. The lush cloud forest had given way to a mist-covered expanse dominated by towering pines.

"And now," Ramirez announced, "the real show begins."

The thin mountain air was chilly as clouds swirled around us—and, at times, below us—at a dizzying pace. Soon, the sun began to dip below the horizon, clearing the sky to reveal our neighbor, Fuego, its triangular peak silhouetted against a vibrant purple-orange sky. While Ramirez kindled a fire and prepared a meal of stir-fried vegetables, Erin and I marveled as Fuego erupted approximately every 15 minutes, each explosion heralded by a deep, primal gurgle followed by showers of lava.

At dawn the next day, we would embark on the challenging ascent to the summit. The trek back to the city promised to test our thighs, knees, and pride. But for now, we were simply captivated by the volcano’s fierce beauty, set against a backdrop of sparkling stars.

The Allure of Antigua Guatemala

Accommodation Options

Casa Palopó: This exquisite property perched on a hillside offers breathtaking, unobstructed views of Lake Atitlán. The hotel can organize excursions to nearby lakeside villages, wellness sessions with a local shaman, visits to weaving collectives, and various other experiences.

Villa Bokéh: This grand estate at the edge of Antigua’s historic district features a new hotel created by the team behind Casa Palopó. It boasts 15 uniquely charming rooms, a remarkable restaurant, and beautifully landscaped grounds.

Dining Options

El Artesano: At this Italian restaurant within La Casa Zapote hotel, Guatemalan-Swiss chef Dietrich Gantenbein personally cures all the meats, nestled just outside San Marcos, a laid-back haven on Lake Atitlán.

Nana: Combining a restaurant with a vintage shop offering jeans, boots, and more, Nana has brought a relaxed, stylish vibe to Antigua’s culinary landscape.

Quiltro: Chef Rodrigo Salvo’s experience at Noma and his passion for Guatemalan culture are beautifully reflected in his restaurant, which debuted in 2021.

Ulew: This bar hidden within a brewery can be accessed through a secret door disguised as an old phone booth, where bartenders blend local herbs and spirits to create remarkable cocktails.

Shopping Destinations

Codeas Women’s Weaving Cooperative: This cooperative features textiles crafted and sold by members of the Mayan community. Calle Chi Nima Ya, San Juan La Laguna.

Mercado de Artesanías: A wonderfully chaotic and bustling marketplace where you can explore numerous stalls and haggle for blankets, wooden utensils, and various handicrafts. 4a Calle Poniente, Antigua Guatemala.

Que Onda Vos: A charming space showcasing locally crafted rugs, glassware, and artwork in a bright, whitewashed environment.

Booking Information

Trek Guatemala: This outfitter based in Antigua offers unique adventure tours, including overnight hikes to the summit of Acatenango and a multi-day glamping journey from Antigua to Lake Atitlán.

This story first appeared in the August 2023 issue of Dinogo under the title "Surprise and Delight."