As Tourists Descend on National Parks, Local Mytouries Prepare for the Impact of COVID-19

The town of Boulder, Utah, has a permanent population of fewer than 300 residents. Blake Spalding, co-owner and chef of Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm at the Boulder Mountain Lodge, describes it as one of the most isolated towns in the continental U.S. Each summer, travelers flock to the area while exploring the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, enjoying a unique dining experience.

Spalding and Castle have fought to protect the monument from the Trump administration, which significantly reduced its size in 2017 to facilitate resource extraction. However, the recent push to reopen the nation amid the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic presents a new threat: a surge of tourists escaping high-infection areas may inadvertently introduce the virus to towns like Boulder, complicating the situation for restaurants serving these visitors.

“What we witnessed over Memorial Day weekend was astonishing. The crowds were overwhelming and unsettling,” Spalding recalls. Hell’s Backbone was closed during that time for kitchen upgrades and to create a patio for more outdoor dining. Support from a Payment Protection Program loan, an online store, and their regenerative agriculture farm has kept them afloat, but Spalding and Castle know they must reopen their restaurant, even if it risks their shop and farm. “We cherish our guests,” Spalding admits, “but it’s strange to feel apprehensive about them.”

It makes sense for travelers to escape high-infection urban areas for the relative safety of wilderness destinations, which have generally maintained lower infection rates. The outdoor environment is less conducive to viral spread, making national parks appealing retreats. However, while campers can return home post-visit, they may leave behind the virus in small towns that lack resources to combat it. In remote places like Boulder, part of the Grand Staircase-Escalante monument, acquiring PPE such as masks and gloves can be challenging. If a restaurant runs low, it might take a week for more supplies to arrive via UPS. “There’s a clinic 45 minutes away, but, like many rural areas, our healthcare resources are quite limited,” Spalding explains.

Restaurants in so-called 'gateway communities' adjacent to national parks are preparing for a summer influx of visitors. Despite CDC warnings regarding the potential death toll and a campaign by the National Park Service to discourage parkgoers, campers are still flocking to outdoor sites after months of confinement. RV sales have surged, and Airbnb is experiencing a spike in vacation rentals. An April survey by Kampgrounds of America revealed that nearly half of travelers who canceled trips due to COVID-19 have opted to go camping instead, with 41 percent of campers committing to their planned outings.

As visitor numbers increase, tensions are escalating within park communities between businesses dependent on tourism and locals who are wary of outside visitors. Charles Tanner, owner of K-Bar Pizza and Two Bit Saloon in Gardiner, Montana, located directly across from Yellowstone National Park's northern entrance, reports that when the pandemic first emerged, locals ceased visiting his restaurants, even for takeout, due to fears of interacting with tourists.

In 2019, tourists contributed $500 million and supported 7,000 jobs in towns like Gardiner around Yellowstone, with a total of $21 billion spent in park communities nationwide. The COVID-19 pandemic, which led to park closures in March, has left local businesses struggling, and most are still experiencing year-over-year sales declines. A potential second wave of infections could lead to further state closures, prompting some restaurants to reopen despite the inherent risks.

'The parks are national treasures, but they’re also the backbone of our community,' says Fred Peightal, owner of Cafe Genevieve in Jackson, Wyoming, near Grand Teton National Park. While he has reservations about welcoming visitors from outside, he feels he has no other choice, especially since the restaurant has been mostly closed since July 2019 due to a fire. 'We need to do this or risk shutting down for good,' he states.

Peightal estimates that most restaurants in Jackson generate 60 to 70 percent of their annual revenue during the peak summer season, which spans from July to September. While the peak season varies across parks and regions, remaining closed during these crucial months could spell disaster for a business. 'If we lose our summer,' Peightal warns, 'I doubt we’d survive another year. Particularly if [COVID-19] resurfaces in the fall and we miss our winter. It could be catastrophic for nearly every restaurant in town.' For seasonal businesses that remain closed in winter, the urgency to capitalize on warmer months is even more pronounced.

Chef Ian Boden experienced a surge in domestic tourism when he opened his first restaurant in 2007, just prior to the Great Recession, which encouraged local travel and spending. Boden anticipates a similar trend at his current establishment, the Shack, located near Shenandoah National Park in Staunton, Virginia. The restaurant serves as an accessible getaway for visitors from D.C., Philadelphia, and New York, eliminating the need for flights, which made Boden cautious about reopening even as Virginia began lifting restrictions in May.

'With 80 percent of our clientele coming from out of town, particularly from large markets with higher infection rates, I was concerned for my staff,' Boden shares. A favorable review in the Washington Post earlier this year could draw even more city visitors to the Shack. 'That’s why I believe it’s irresponsible to reopen, even for outdoor dining. I know our dining room will quickly fill up with people from out of town once we do. I would feel terrible if one of my staff got sick because someone from D.C. came to Staunton,' he explains.

Initial evidence from the parks’ first wave of visitors is concerning. Just days before Yellowstone opened, Tanner noticed travelers arriving from Seattle, LA, and San Francisco. However, he also observed one significant absence.

'I didn’t see any tourists wearing masks,' he remarks. 'I might have anticipated some customers opting for takeout to avoid public spaces, but instead, it seems we’re attracting those eager for a sense of normalcy.'

Tanner speculates that these enthusiastic early travelers are simply less worried about infection, yet they've exposed a deeper vulnerability within gateway communities. Rural areas appear safer than urban centers, leading visitors to feel less compelled to protect themselves—or the locals—from potential infection. Nearly half of those surveyed by KOA view camping as the safest travel option, but that doesn’t necessarily translate to taking necessary precautions.

Jeannie Allen, the business and operations manager at the Log Cabin Pancake House in Gatlinburg, Tennessee, located at the edge of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, is particularly cautious due to her asthma, especially around the maskless tourists she observes.

'When people go on vacation, they feel invulnerable because this area has relatively few cases,' she explains. 'In Gatlinburg, you think you don’t need to worry. You feel completely at ease walking the streets at night. Many people seem to think it’s safe here, but we’re not immune to anything.'

Tanner is confident in his ability to ensure safety. He’s collaborating with the health department to test and monitor his staff, aiming to minimize infection risks. 'Any business that decides to reopen, especially in these gateway communities, is taking extra precautions because we desperately need that revenue,' he asserts, noting that every business owner in town feels compelled to adhere strictly to health guidelines.

Many residents in Gardiner have started to come around since the state began its recovery efforts, but the divide highlights the challenges of managing risk in vulnerable communities near popular vacation spots. Relaxing precautions in one area inevitably impacts neighboring regions, just as reopening a single business can influence an entire town. “It’s like having a designated peeing section in a pool,” Boden remarks. Tensions may escalate as both visitor numbers and risks rise in the parks.

If there’s a silver lining, it exists within the parks themselves, which have thrived without the influx of tourists. Congress has leveraged public enthusiasm for outdoor recreation to pass a bipartisan bill providing additional funding for the parks. Peightal notes that some of his restaurant staff might even take the opportunity to enjoy the park this year if visitor traffic remains low.

“I’m not sure we’ll ever fully recover financially from this,” Spalding confesses, “but I also believe we won’t know unless we make the effort.” The vision of a park restaurant is worth fighting for. “I’ve witnessed the impact of a well-crafted meal paired with stunning wilderness. It’s a combination that can truly be transformative.”