At Six Senses Kyoto, a contemporary hotel playfully honors an ancient city

Few places in the world are as enchanting as the ancient Japanese city of Kyoto, filled with thousands of temples, shrines, and monuments. Visiting this city, which served as Japan's capital for over a millennium, feels like a journey back in time, even as the modern, ultramodern lifestyle remains vibrant throughout the area.

In this lively metropolis that seamlessly blends past, present, and future, you’ll encounter kimono-clad geishas strolling ancient streets while using iPhones, tourists enjoying coffee on traditional tatami mats in a Starbucks located in a century-old wooden townhouse, and trendy crowds of locals and visitors queuing for kaiseki dining and conveyor belt sushi.

Kyoto is also a hub for hotels, with a seemingly endless array of brands to choose from, ranging from budget-friendly options to luxurious retreats. With names like Aman, Four Seasons, Park Hyatt, and Ritz-Carlton, high-end accommodations are plentiful. In 2024, Kyoto particularly embraced luxury wellness brands, such as Six Senses and Banyan Tree, that respectfully blend the city’s ancient traditions with modern amenities.

During a recent visit to Japan, I had the chance to stay for two nights at the new Six Senses Kyoto — featured on our list of the most anticipated hotel openings of 2024 — located in the historic Higashiyama Ward. This area transports you back to feudal-era Japan, filled with wooden structures, UNESCO-designated temples, welcoming tea houses, and numerous luxury hotels.

Here’s what it’s like to stay at the new Six Senses Kyoto.

Getting there

Six Senses Kyoto is just over a mile from Kyoto Station, the main hub where travelers can arrive and depart on the Shinkansen, or bullet train, that traverses Japan. From Tokyo, the Shinkansen starts at approximately $100 each way and takes about two hours and fifteen minutes. From Osaka, you can take the Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka Station to Kyoto Station in under 20 minutes for around $19, or opt for a slower local train to Kyoto for less than $10 per ticket.

From the train station, a taxi ride to Six Senses Kyoto will cost under $10 and is easily accessible from a designated taxi stand. In Japan, taxis are typically the most affordable car service, and from my experience at major train stations, it's often simpler to wait in the taxi queue than to request an Uber. At the hotel, staff can promptly call a cab for you, or you can order an Uber directly to the hotel.

The nearest airport to Kyoto is Osaka International Airport (ITM), located about 22 miles away, but it only serves domestic flights within Japan. For international travel, visitors should either fly into Tokyo and take the Shinkansen or use Kansai International Airport (KIX), the main international airport for the Osaka-Kyoto area, situated about 60 miles from the hotel. At Kansai, several train options can take you to Kyoto, with the fastest being the JR Haruka Limited Express, which departs every half hour, takes around 70 minutes, and costs 2,850 yen ($20).

Booking information

Rates at Six Senses Kyoto begin at $1,262 per night, according to the current booking calendar, and can easily exceed $1,500 per night throughout the year. IHG One Rewards members can secure award stays starting from 229,000 points per night.

When reserving your stay at Six Senses Kyoto, it's beneficial to choose one of the credit cards that maximize points for IHG stays, preferably one that also grants automatic IHG One Rewards elite status for added perks. These perks include:

• IHG One Rewards Premier Credit Card: Earn 10 points for every dollar spent at IHG hotels and resorts, along with automatic Platinum Elite status.
• IHG One Rewards Premier Business Credit Card: Earn 10 points for every dollar spent at IHG hotels and resorts, plus automatic Platinum Elite status.
• IHG One Rewards Traveler Credit Card: Earn 5 points for every dollar spent at IHG hotels and resorts, and gain automatic Silver Elite status.

Notable features

• The friendliest staff I have ever encountered at a hotel.
• Innovative and modern designs blended with traditional Japanese elements provide a true sense of place.
• Breakfast each morning was the highlight of my stay, particularly the grilled mushrooms.
• The contemporary hot bath experience at the spa was a fantastic way to unwind in a stunning and tranquil environment.

Cons

• The rates may be unaffordable for many, whether paying in cash or using IHG One Rewards points.
• Traffic congestion in the vicinity can be significant, so it's wise to plan ahead.
• Given its emphasis on wellness, this tranquil hotel may not appeal to those seeking a vibrant social atmosphere with other guests.

Atmosphere

From the exterior, Six Senses Kyoto presents a stylish yet modest appearance; you might not guess that within its wood-clad façade lies a serene (and slightly playful) wellness sanctuary, except for the small, golden square sign displaying the hotel's name.

Upon stepping inside, it became evident that something extraordinary was deliberately concealed from those walking by. During a guided tour, I learned that the design aimed to creatively and modernly interpret the aesthetics of the Heian period (794-1185), a time when Kyoto was Japan's capital, artistic expression thrived, and the principle of miyabi, or elegance, was celebrated in the Land of the Rising Sun.

In the lobby, carefully arranged midcentury modern furnishings created a warm and inviting atmosphere, complemented by a unique welcome ritual during check-in that featured incense rubbed between the hands, crafted specifically for the hotel by one of Japan's oldest incense artisans.

Behind the exquisite wooden reception desk, a folding screen made of 504 handcrafted Japanese rakuyaki tiles was designed to evoke the nearby Mount Kurama, the birthplace of Reiki, reflecting sunlight from the adjoining garden terrace.

On the opposite wall, a striking and playful artwork showcases miniature frogs, rabbits, monkeys, and foxes, climbing and hanging from a scroll, reminiscent of a Tom Otterness creation. This piece is a contemporary take on "Choju-giga," or the "Scrolls of Frolicking Animals," which dates back to the 12th century and is regarded as one of the earliest forms of manga. These charming creatures can be found throughout the hotel, from subtle engravings on elevator mirrors to vivid interpretations in the hallways leading to the dining areas.

If a hotel's lobby serves as a reflection of the overall experience, then this lobby and hotel certainly captured my heart. Stylish Japanese guests quietly enjoyed the serene garden views while friendly staff warmly greeted us by name every time we entered. During check-in hours, a delightful cart offering welcome cocktails made its appearance in the elegant space.

The room

During my two-night visit to Six Senses Kyoto, I stayed in a deluxe twin room, which spanned approximately 484 square feet, alongside my travel companion, my mom. (Note: In Japan, double rooms often feature only twin beds, even in upscale hotels.) To reach our room, we walked down a long, elegantly designed hallway reminiscent of a traditional Japanese tatami room.

The gentle brown tones and wooden accents of the tatami hallway extended into our room, where we were welcomed by an entryway featuring generous closet space, a bench, and a sliding door leading to the bathroom. In Japanese tradition, it's customary to remove shoes at the entrance; while not obligatory at the hotel, slippers are conveniently provided at the door.

Deeper into the room, the two twin beds were positioned against a wall adorned with movable panels, allowing for creative arrangements (or a clever prank on someone at the bathroom vanity that shares the wall). On the nightstand, adjustable reading lights were provided alongside bottled water, sourced from the hotel as part of Six Senses' sustainability pledge.

The room also showcased midcentury modern elements, including a low couch with a table and a bar cabinet stocked with an espresso machine, traditional tea supplies, a mini-fridge containing sake, juices, a selection of local craft beers, and various snacks.

These homemade treats, particularly the sweet potato chips, were absolutely delightful—a tasty and unexpected complimentary surprise in the room.

The room featured a narrow balcony with a tiny couch overlooking the gardens, accompanied by a very low desk and chair. While Japanese culture often embraces sitting on the floor or cushions, many might find this desk setup challenging. Fortunately, the couch and table provided a more functional workspace.

In the bathroom, single-sink vanities lined opposite walls, each offering similar counter space. The striking red-tiled wall showcased the reverse side of the tiles found in the bedroom. A delightful addition was a hanging incense burner.

One door in the bathroom led to a luxurious Japanese toilet (complete with a heated seat!), while the other opened into a compact room featuring a spacious soaking tub and a shower.

In Japan, it’s common for hotels to provide pajamas in the closet for guests, and at Six Senses Kyoto, I found cozy Tential-branded sets designed to enhance circulation and regulate body temperature, perfect for winding down at night. Guests can also choose pillows from an on-demand menu, but I was completely satisfied with those already provided.

Dining and beverages

Six Senses Kyoto features a café serving morning coffees, teas, and pastries; an all-day dining venue named Sekki; the Kyoto location of Osaka's Sushi Oga (which I regrettably didn’t get to experience); and a stylish cocktail bar called Nine Tails.

Sekki, the all-day dining restaurant known for its "hyper-seasonal" approach, embraces a Japanese philosophy that segments the year into 24 unique solar seasons. The menu brims with locally and sustainably sourced ingredients, offering Western visitors a delightful array of colors, textures, flavors, and aromas that surpass expectations.

Even if breakfast isn’t included in your rate, be sure to indulge in the option that features an impressive breakfast buffet alongside an à la carte menu. Highlights for me were the beautifully yellow Japanese-style omelets, fried eggs, toast with shiso hummus, and a side of grilled hummus.

Dinner at Sekki was a delightful experience, featuring an omakase-style menu ($110) that showcased seasonal ingredients from the region. Highlights included fresh bread sprinkled with flaky salt, a refreshing soup, a fish dish, delicate vegetables, and a delectable wagyu course served with wasabi.

Nine Tails, the cocktail bar, was a delight for both the palate and the eyes. Although the bar was mostly quiet during our pre-dinner visit on a weekday night, I could easily envision it buzzing with trendy jet-setters and locals seeking a chic atmosphere for their drinks.

Cocktails at Nine Tails are priced between $12 and $20, featuring classic drinks along with unique Japanese interpretations. I particularly enjoyed the La Tomato Negroni ($20), made with Roku gin and La Tomato, a specialty Japanese liqueur crafted from freshly picked tomatoes. Every cocktail we tried was exceptional — a testament to Japan's renowned cocktail culture — and paired perfectly with bar snacks like a mushroom skewer ($12).

Amenities and service

In Japan, spa culture is deeply ingrained, with many hotels offering hot springs-like experiences right on the premises. Each day of my visit, I made a point to enjoy the men's hot bath. There, I could opt for a traditional shower or embrace Japanese bathing customs by using a hinoki chair for washing before enjoying the steam room, soaking in warm pools with views of a lovely private garden, or taking a quick dip in a plunge pool.

During my eight-night stay in Japan, I fully embraced onsen culture and highly recommend you do the same.

The spa features a spacious indoor pool suitable for lap swimming, with specific hours designated for children.

The medium-sized gym was well-equipped with various machines and free weights, and I found it pleasantly uncrowded throughout my stay.

I chose the 60-minute omakase treatment ($212) at the spa, which started with a form asking whether I preferred a massage or facial (I went with a massage this time). It also inquired about my lifestyle, skin type, muscle tension, and personal preferences like scent and treatment goals. While the massage itself was quite standard (though excellent), the serene spa atmosphere and attentive staff made the experience incredibly relaxing and soothing.

The spa features a small retail shop, beauty services, advanced tech treatments, and even an alchemy bar (shown above) where guests can create their own skincare products with guidance from an expert, all set in a beautifully calming environment.

The hotel features a cozy kids' area and various programs for families traveling with children, along with a dedicated room that showcases the property’s sustainability initiatives. Guests can engage in activities like crafting with recycled materials and observe the filtration system where the hotel's glass bottles of water are filled.

Every person I met at Six Senses Kyoto was exceptional and truly committed to ensuring my mom and I felt well cared for in a heartfelt manner. I found it more convenient to have the hotel arrange a cab for us instead of using Uber, and the doormen would gently place a protective hand over the car as we entered, preventing any accidental bumps to our heads. If that isn't exemplary service, I don't know what is.

Accessibility

Guests in need of accessible accommodations should request a wheelchair-accessible superior king room directly from the hotel. The communal areas, including the lobby, restaurants, and general spa facilities, are wheelchair-friendly, but additional arrangements may be necessary for specific locations like the pool.

As always, it's advisable to confirm any accessibility requests before your arrival.

Checking out

For my very first stay at a Six Senses property, I had high hopes — and this hotel exceeded them. From a lobby that felt like a dream to starting my mornings with a delightful and visually appealing breakfast, to an invigorating hot bath experience that alleviated any lingering effects from the cocktail bar the night before, I relished every moment at the hotel, especially the warm interactions with the staff.

One notable drawback of this property is its high cost, typical of many luxury hotels in Japan. Although you can book it using IHG One Rewards points, I question whether those steep rates offer better value compared to, for instance, a resort getaway in the Maldives — but this ultimately depends on your travel preferences.