Brutalism, governance, and grace: Why Turkey's capital defies the 'gray' stereotype

Just over a century ago, in 1923, a once-deteriorating city in central Turkey was thrust into global attention as the world recovered from years of turmoil.

Although Istanbul, once known as Constantinople, had been the nation's political center for centuries, the fall of the Ottoman Empire heralded a new chapter for Turkey, including the selection of a fresh capital.

Ankara.

Situated at the heart of the country, Ankara's roots extend far beyond Roman history. However, as the centerpiece of the newly formed Turkish Republic, it quickly transformed into the symbol of Turkey’s forward-looking vision.

This led to a bold urban development plan and rapid growth, transforming the city into a thriving industrial and administrative hub, now home to over 5 million residents.

In terms of tourism, Ankara often plays second fiddle to Istanbul, unfairly labeled as a dull, gray, bureaucratic destination.

In truth, Ankara is a captivating city. It’s quieter, greener, more orderly, and livable—blending its rich history with the vibrant spirit of its large student population. It boasts a unique and colorful identity all its own.

Ankara’s leap into modernity began in 1932 with a new city plan crafted by German architect and urban planner Hermann Jansen.

A grand central avenue, Atatürk Bulvarı—named after Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of the Turkish Republic—was introduced, lined with European and American-inspired buildings, along with trendy new cafes and restaurants designed in the same modern style.

In 1948, the Ankara State Opera and Ballet was opened, symbolizing the new nation's belief that the arts were the highest form of modern expression.

Originally constructed in 1933 as an exhibition hall, it was converted into a performance venue by German architect Paul Bonatz. Its grand, sweeping design and columned interior continue to host operas, ballets, and concerts.

Construction of key government buildings progressed, with monumental structures like the Turkish Grand National Assembly, Ministry of Defense, and Çankaya Mansion—official residence of the vice president—designed by Austrian architect Clemens Holzmeister.

Between 1961 and 1980, the city gained one of its most significant university campuses: the Middle East Technical University. Designed by Behruz and Altuğ Çinici, it became one of Turkey’s iconic examples of Brutalist architecture, defined by raw concrete and brick.

Today, traces of this national construction project are still visible in Ankara’s architecture, its urban master plan, and in the many museums, universities, and cultural institutions that shape the city's identity.

It has continued to evolve, firmly establishing its own distinct identity, far from the glitz and glamour of Istanbul.

Hidden Gems

One of the city’s most iconic landmarks is Anıtkabir, the grand mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, built with marble and travertine.

The most popular area in the city is around Ankara Castle, a seventh-century fortress that sits atop a hill, offering sweeping views of the Kale district with its vibrant Ottoman-era houses.

In this area, the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations showcases an extensive collection of artifacts from significant archaeological sites across the Anatolia region.

Nearby, the newly opened Erimtan Archaeology and Arts Museum occupies three beautifully restored historic houses, displaying over 2,000 pieces from the Roman, Urartu, Hittite, and Byzantine periods.

Just a short walk away, Divan Çukurhan, a charming hotel set in a meticulously restored 16th-century caravanserai, invites visitors to relax with a Turkish coffee and dessert while lounging on leather sofas in the building’s grand arcade.

Outside, the winding cobblestone streets of Ankara’s historic Samanpazarı district are filled with artisan workshops and shops selling crafts and antiques. You’ll find handmade goods displayed on nearly every corner, along with historic caravanserais like Tarihi Pilavoğlu Han Çarşısı, housing artisan shops.

A hidden gem among the antique and artisan shops is the Aslanhane Cami, one of Ankara’s oldest mosques, recently added to UNESCO's List of Wooden Hypostyle Mosques of Medieval Anatolia. The mosque is renowned for its intricate wood carvings adorning the ceiling, mihrab, and minbar, featuring delicate floral and geometric patterns.

Ancient Wonders

Built between 1925 and 1928 by Turkish architect Arif Hikmet Koyunoğlu, the Ankara Ethnography Museum was the first museum of the new republic. Its design draws heavily from the grand Ottoman style. Inside, visitors can explore colorful folk costumes from across Anatolia, along with exquisite Ottoman calligraphy and traditional Turkish tile and glass art.

Next door, the Ankara Painting and Sculpture Museum is a stunning work of art in itself. Built between 1927 and 1930 by Koyunoğlu, it boasts the same grandiose style, with towering marble details and intricate ornamentation. Inside, under antique chandeliers and ornate ceilings, visitors can explore over 150 years of Turkish art.

A short 20-minute walk away, past the city’s Gençlik Parkı, the İş Bankası İktisadi Bağımsızlık Müzesi (İşbank Economic Independence Museum) is hard to miss. Designed by Italian architect Giulio Mongeri in 1929, the building features lancet arches and floral motifs, along with a striking oval stained-glass ceiling in the main hall, depicting the mythological god Hermes.

Ankara’s center for contemporary art is Cer Modern, established in 2010 inside a former railway workshop (the name 'Cer' refers to a locomotive). The gallery hosts exhibitions in its expansive halls and outdoor art garden, while also offering workshops, film screenings, and a café.

Turkey’s political and administrative capital

With its grand architecture and, let's be honest, its focus on bureaucracy, it's no surprise that Ankara often gets a reputation for being a bit monochrome in the eyes of the world.

Yet, those who are familiar with the city argue that it’s often misunderstood.

Ragip Soylu, a journalist who relocated from Washington to Ankara in 2019, has been showcasing the city’s visual beauty on Instagram since 2020 through the account Ankara Gri Değil (Ankara is not Gray).

“People typically come to Ankara for bureaucratic reasons—whether it's an exam, visa application, or a job related to the judiciary—and often see the city through a gray lens,” says Soylu, who serves as the Ankara bureau chief for the Middle East Eye news website.

“What makes Ankara special to me is its peaceful, organized atmosphere—less traffic, fewer crowds, and lower inflation compared to other major cities. While living in Istanbul has become nearly impossible, it’s still very much feasible in Ankara. In every sense,” he shares.

“There are so many places I enjoy in Ankara. Watching exhibitions and attending talks at Ka Atölye; exploring the city’s architectural and cultural gems with Urban Walks Ankara; enjoying a classical concert at CSO Ada; having breakfast at Kakule Fırın and Sarnii; grabbing pizza at Mozz Pizza; and savoring döner kebab made by a female chef at Kebapçı Canbolat.”

Soylu, who frequently compares Ankara to Washington, also recommends exploring the historic Ankara houses in Hamamönü, checking out the new third-wave coffee shops in Bahçelievler, and taking in the panoramic views from Atakule, the city’s first modern mall tower, built in 1989.

Escape to Eskişehir

There are plenty of attractions nearby to explore as well.

Thanks to the efficient high-speed rail system, the journey to Eskişehir, a charming university town, has become one of the most popular weekend escapes for residents of Ankara.

Praised as one of Turkey’s most European towns, Eskişehir is also renowned for the Odunpazarı Historical Urban Site, an open-air museum showcasing some of the best-preserved examples of traditional Turkish architecture.

The site is also home to the Atlıhan Crafts Bazaar, where traditional handicrafts are still made, displayed, and sold. Additionally, it houses the world’s only meerschaum (sepiolite) museum, known as lületaşı in Turkish.

Since 2019, Eskişehir has emerged as a must-visit destination, especially for the Odunpazarı Modern Museum (OMM), designed by the world-renowned Japanese architecture firm Kengo Kuma and Associates.

The OMM houses the modern art collection of architect and contractor Erol Tabanca. Its striking design, composed of stacked and interlocking timber beams, makes it one of the country’s most impressive contemporary art museums.

Right next to the museum, the OMM Inn is a chic boutique hotel set in a renovated Ottoman-era house in Odunpazarı. It features its own café and restaurant, offering a unique plant-based menu, along with a shop selling eco-friendly and sustainable products.