Can a Restaurant Membership Program Revive Latin America's Dining Scene?

As life begins to resemble normalcy again and COVID restrictions ease, you might feel the urge to celebrate with a meal out. However, with many restaurants closing their doors, possibly for good, the dining landscape could be quite different once we all emerge. Some Mytouries have sought customer support through delivery, gift cards, and fundraising efforts, but a coalition of restaurants in Latin America is trying a fresh tactic: they’re asking you to commit around $20 a month now to secure future reservations at exclusive chef’s tables or special dinners, like New Year’s Eve feasts. This advance promise of access could help sustain over 100 highly regarded restaurants across nine countries.

Pre-paid access through a membership club could be the lifeline needed for restaurants during the COVID-19 crisis. The newly formed Stellar Collective features a selection of upscale establishments from Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Guatemala, Mexico, Panama, Peru, and Uruguay. Many are well-known names on the Latin America 50 Best list, such as Restaurante 040 in Santiago, El Baqueano in Buenos Aires, Maito in Panama City, Isolina in Lima, and Leo in Bogotá, along with more accessible options like A Casa do Porco in São Paulo and Nicos in Mexico City. A full list of participating restaurants can be found on the collective's website.

The Stellar Collective acts as an international dining club, with membership fees starting now for significant future perks. Unlike gift cards that only postpone financial difficulties, this membership model provides immediate cash flow to the restaurant sector without imposing future costs. It also stands apart from traditional fundraising, which relies heavily on charitable giving, by offering something tangible in return for today’s financially constrained consumers.

For $20 a month ($15 if you opt for an annual membership), diners can enjoy early reservations on holidays such as Valentine’s Day, gain priority for chef’s private tables, receive alerts about last-minute openings due to cancellations, and access concierge services across the network. “These perks are not new,” states Luis Caviglia, who co-founded the collective with his brother Juan. “What’s unique is the systematic, one-stop access to this level of hospitality.” While the collective includes several exclusive restaurants, the membership aims to be affordable for a wider audience than just wealthy locals and international food enthusiasts.

In the past month, the Caviglia brothers, originally from Uruguay, engaged with their Latin American clients at Meitre, a restaurant software company, to discuss strategies for navigating the COVID-19 crisis. Fine dining establishments, in particular, face unique challenges as their tasting menus are not suited for delivery. While they plan to introduce a premium membership option later, the collective is focusing on harnessing the public's immediate desire to help lessen economic hardship. “In two months, we expect memberships to sell better, but we need action now,” Luis explains, emphasizing the importance of making membership accessible, even if it means sacrificing some exclusivity that attracts high-end patrons.

The brothers are fully transferring control of the collective to the chefs, who will have the ability to add new members, organize membership benefits, and oversee profits within the network. Currently, there are no strict guidelines on how the funds should be utilized by restaurants, meaning that money may not necessarily support employees instead of going to owners. Juan mentions that they debated establishing spending requirements but ultimately opted against it, considering the urgent circumstances and the diverse economic situations restaurants are facing. He likens it to an emergency oxygen mask on an airplane: “First, secure your own mask, then assist others.” A restaurant's failure impacts its workers, and while some participating restaurateurs have informally pledged to support vulnerable staff and suppliers, these commitments are not formalized yet.

The collective’s appeal is bolstered by its prominent names and wide geographic reach, yet coordinating across various countries, cultures, and economies can be challenging. However, Luis believes this diversity could work to their advantage. “If a diner is offered a membership at just one restaurant, that’s insufficient,” he notes, “but the network effect is significant for those passionate about gastronomy. While diversity might complicate things, it’s ultimately one of our greatest strengths.”

The collective has seen rapid and organic growth, as chefs invite fellow peers and friends to join, and there’s potential for this concept to flourish in other regions. As restaurant owners worldwide grapple with financial survival, they might find inspiration in Latin America's approach.