Chasing the Sun: Discovering the Ancient Incan Legacy in Southern Peru

Though Cusco is only a brief flight south from Lima, the capital of Peru, it feels like a journey back through the ages.

Characterized by verdant hills, fertile land, and clear views of the Milky Way, this enchanting high-altitude locale was purposefully chosen as the heart of the Inca Empire. Remarkably, the stunning stone architecture from the 15th and 16th centuries still stands – from hidden fortresses to grand temples honoring nature, and steep agricultural terraces winding through the hills.

With no written records, the history of the Incas remains enigmatic, making the best way to connect with this ancient powerhouse to literally tread in their footsteps. Lace up your hiking boots for a week-long journey through the sacred Cusco region of southern Peru.

Editor’s note: This itinerary includes high-altitude areas of Peru. If possible, it’s recommended to spend some time in lower altitude regions to acclimatize before venturing into the higher elevations of Cusco.

Day 1: Explore Cusco City

Cusco's significance to the Inca civilization is reflected in its name, which translates to 'navel of the world' in the ancient Quechua language. Cultural landmarks abound, such as the annual Inti Raymi festival, honoring the Sun God during the winter solstice in June. The parade route—Qoricancha, Plaza de Armas, and eventually Sacsayhuaman—creates an ideal itinerary for a day in Cusco, regardless of the season.

Originally dedicated to the Sun God Inti, the 15th-century Qoricancha was once lavishly adorned with gold, from its walls to its floors and its expansive gardens. As the most revered Inca temple, the Spaniards dismantled the Temple of the Sun, using its remnants as the foundation for the Santo Domingo church. Today, visitors can tour the temple just south of Cusco's main square, witnessing the blend of Western religious influences and indigenous culture.

Next, make your way to Plaza de Armas, the former central gathering place for the Inca. Today’s main square features a charming fountain, vibrant flower beds, and benches where locals and visitors relax together. Enclosed by colonial buildings that house shops and eateries, Plaza de Armas remains a focal point for religious and cultural festivities.

If there’s one Incan site to explore in Cusco, it’s Sacsayhuaman. Nestled behind the stylish San Blas neighborhood at an altitude of 3,700m, this archaeological site is thought to have served as either a fortress or ceremonial center, or possibly both. Just a 15-minute walk from the main square, Sacsayhuaman boasts an expansive complex of plazas, altars, towers, caves, and breathtaking views of the city below.

Day 2: The Sacred Valley

On your second day, leave the city behind and venture into the enchanting landscape known as Valle Sagrado (Sacred Valley). The ideal route takes you through Pisac, a small town rich in new-age hippie culture. After enjoying a ceremonial cacao from a local café, head to the main square, where you’ll find a trail leading to Pisac’s impressive Inca terraces. Likely a defensive point for Cusco, these are among the most well-preserved Inca ruins in the valley, making the steep two-hour climb well worth the effort.

After an active morning, continue west along the main road that traverses the valley. As the altitude decreases, consider stopping in charming roadside villages like Yucay, where bulls still plow the fields, or in Urubamba, the largest town in the area. About 36 miles later, as the paved road turns to cobblestone, you’ll know you’ve arrived at your next stop, Ollantaytambo.

Day 3: Ollantaytambo

Many travelers make the mistake of simply passing through Ollantaytambo on their way to catch the train to Machupicchu. Instead, take the time to stroll along the cobblestone pedestrian streets, accompanied by the soothing sound of water flowing through open canals. Look for a breakfast cart offering a warm quinoa drink and bread with avocado. After your meal, hike up to the Ollantaytambo archaeological site for stunning views from this Inca-era outpost that served as a transit point between Cusco and Machupicchu.

Spend several hours exploring the terraced sites of Ollantaytambo, which include the intricately constructed Temple of the Sun and the Bath of the Ñusta (Inca princess). Then, delve into what modern-day Ollantaytambo has to offer. Create your own spirit infused with Andean botanicals at Distileria Andina, browse the Alqa Museum and Cafe, and conclude your day at one of the many restaurants boasting incredible views of the ancient sites and surrounding mountains.

Days 4 and 5: 2-Day Inca Trail

After enjoying a few days in the unique fusion of modern life and ancient history in Cusco and the Sacred Valley, it's time to connect with nature. While the classic 4-Day Inca Trail allows you to explore more Inca archaeological sites, the 2-day trek is still a remarkable journey to Machupicchu, nestled in a vibrant tropical forest.

As you pass cascading waterfalls and historic landmarks like Wiñay Wayna (which translates to ‘Forever Young’ in Quechua), hikers will ascend the steps of Inti Punku, or the Sun Gate, for a breathtaking first look at Machupicchu (2,430m). The experience of walking an authentic Inca path to this 15th-century citadel enhances the visit, making it truly unforgettable.

After a restful night, return to Machupicchu the next day for a comprehensive guided tour of this iconic site. This breathtaking ancient city remained hidden from the Spanish and was largely forgotten until the early 20th century. The exact purpose of Machupicchu is still uncertain; it may have been established during the declining years of the Incas or might have already been an abandoned city by then. Its strategic location and various access routes suggest it was a hub for trade between the Amazon and the highlands.

Regardless, the exceptional quality of its stonework and the intricate ornamental features reveal that Machupicchu was once a significant ceremonial center. With its sophisticated irrigation system and eco-friendly architectural design, Machupicchu continues to astonish. After lunch, enjoy a train ride back to Ollantaytambo.

Day 6: Maras and Moray

Over 500 years ago, the Incas sculpted thousands of salt ponds into the mountainside in Maras. Today, local families continue to harvest this ancient resource, known for producing one of the healthiest salts in the world. Located just an hour from Ollantaytambo by taxi, you can stroll through the Maras salt mines, a breathtaking patchwork of pink and white squares, and take home a sack of this prized salt. It's best to visit during the dry season (May-October) when the colors are at their most vivid.

A mere 15 minutes away is Moray, featuring four concentric terraces that served both practical and spiritual purposes for the Incas. The largest terrace, Quechumuyoc, showcases a remarkable variety of microclimates, suggesting it functioned as an agricultural laboratory. Inspired by the experimental nature of this site, renowned chef Virgilio Martinez opened his avant-garde restaurant, MIL, right by Moray.

After exploring the edges of Moray, take a moment to absorb the last of your time in the Sacred Valley and express your gratitude to Pachamama (Mother Earth) before heading back to the airport in Cusco. Whether it’s the revered apus (sacred mountains) that held significance for the Incas or the abundance of archaeological sites, the Cusco region in southern Peru leaves an unforgettable energy that lingers with travelers long after they depart.

For those eager to continue their journey, Southern Peru offers a wealth of unique experiences and delightful cuisine to uncover. Think about utilizing convenient tourist services in any of these three cities to enhance your adventure.