Cheese Rolls: The Journey of a Simple Snack to a New Zealand Icon

At first glance, a cheese roll might appear straightforward—just a slice of bread with a cheese filling, rolled up and toasted to a crispy finish. Yet, there's more to this simple treat than meets the eye.

These unpretentious snacks have earned a special spot in the hearts of many, particularly in the far south of New Zealand, near the tip of the South Island—an area often referred to as the 'Deep South' due to its proximity to Antarctica.

Margaret Peck vividly recalls her first cheese roll experience. As a teenager, she was at the beach near Invercargill, located at the southernmost point of the South Island and close to New Zealand’s southernmost city—home to the world’s southernmost Starbucks and McDonald's.

Her husband, Mark Peck, has his own memory of the first cheese roll he tasted, which came after he moved to New Zealand from Kentucky as a child.

“I’d never tasted them before. And, oh my goodness – they were amazing! I was hooked, completely!”

Even after many years, the memories remain as vivid as ever.

“The cheese roll symbolizes celebrations, special events, reunions, fundraisers,” says Donna Hamilton, co-owner of The Batch in Invercargill, where she and her husband Gareth craft these beloved snacks.

“It represents people, family, and laughter. It’s the ultimate comfort food.”

Immigration and Identity

In the southern reaches of the Deep South, Southland's pastures are often dotted with grazing cows, nestled among the region’s rolling green hills. Here, milk and cheese are abundant. However, cows are not native to New Zealand, and it was European immigrants, along with their descendants, who are credited with creating the iconic cheese roll.

Emeritus Professor Helen Leach, a food anthropologist at the University of Otago in Dunedin (the largest city in the Deep South), notes that the earliest cheese roll recipes appeared in South Island cookbooks during the 1930s.

Cheese rolls became even more popular during the 1950s and 60s, as sliced bread became a household staple across New Zealand, making them a go-to treat at school fundraisers.

However, cheese rolls are a dish distinctly tied to the South Island. Leach's research shows that the first “authentic” recipe for a cheese roll featuring a pre-cooked cheese filling was not published in North Island cookbooks until 1979. Even today, it remains rare to find cheese rolls at cafes in the North Island.

Despite their regional origins, the Pecks were determined to introduce cheese rolls to the capital city when they opened Little Peckish in Wellington at the bottom of the North Island in 2009. This followed Mark Peck's retirement from his political career, after representing Invercargill as a member of Parliament.

“I’m from Southland,” says Margaret Peck, who grew up just north of Invercargill, near the town of Winton. “I wanted to offer something that reflects who I am.”

However, there was a bit of a learning curve: at first, customers were using knives and forks to eat their cheese rolls. Margaret quickly set them straight, insisting that cheese rolls are meant to be eaten with your hands.

West of Invercargill lies Riverton, a charming town located on an estuary formed by the winding Aparima and Pourakino rivers.

This is where Cazna Gilder prepares cheese rolls at The Crib. She refers to them as “southern sushi” – a nickname that reflects their popularity in the region, as they're as widely loved as sushi.

“A cheese roll is genuine,” she says. “It’s not fancy or pretentious. I think that’s because we’re all so grounded here.”

There’s more to it than meets the eye

Cheese rolls come in many different variations.

“Traditions are passed down through generations,” says Hamilton. “Even people living abroad have sent back for the authentic recipe to make for their flatmates in London, helping them beat homesickness.”

Mark Heffer, who prepares cheese rolls at his café, Industry, in Invercargill, explains that a “true” cheese roll needs a few key elements: “[The bread] must be rolled, not folded, loaded with cheese, fresh red onion, a touch of mayo for creaminess, and a bit of sour cream and chopped parsley. It should be toasted just right—golden brown, but not too crispy—and topped with generous amounts of butter.”

“A proper cheese roll should leave you needing to wash your hands and face afterward,” he adds.

However, some people have their own twist on the classic recipe.

One variation can be found just north of Southland, beneath the snow-capped peaks of The Remarkables, at Rātā. Here, the cheese rolls are topped with local delicacies like preserved apricots, hazelnuts, truffle oil, and honey from the southern rātā tree, which grows along the west coast of the South Island. Founder Fleur Caulton shares that these gourmet rolls are a popular entrée at the Queenstown restaurant.

“Everyone has their own take on a roast. We have our own version of the cheese roll,” says Caulton.

The Journey Continues

While it may seem like a peaceful rural area, where neighbors leave their doors unlocked and penguins stroll along the beaches, life in Southland is changing, just like anywhere else. For example, the planned 2024 shutdown of the aluminum smelter at Tiwai Point, Southland's largest employer, could result in the loss of hundreds of jobs.

Nevertheless, cheese rolls remain an integral part of life in the Deep South. Last year, for example, Rātā’s Fleur Caulton shared that they made “1,800 dozen” cheese rolls for a fundraiser at Queenstown’s Wakatipu High School.

On the morning of our interview, Cazna Gilder from The Crib mentioned she had already prepared about 200 cheese rolls in anticipation of the crowds for the Burt Munro Challenge, one of Southland’s biggest annual events.

“As long as there are people in Southland, the cheese roll will continue to thrive,” says Mark Heffer of Industry Café.

Hamilton adds, “The gathering of people, the sense of camaraderie, the support – honestly, right now, the world could use more cheese rolls.”