Chefs in the Maldives are championing sustainability in the kitchen

As the looming threat of rising sea levels impacts the resort islands, the hospitality sector in the Maldives is actively exploring ways to operate with greater environmental responsibility.

One of the key areas of focus is the food industry. Resorts are making efforts to cut down on their substantial energy consumption and resource usage, particularly in a country that relies heavily on imported food. Some establishments are going above and beyond with their sustainable initiatives.

At the forefront of this movement is Roots, a pioneering plant-based dining concept at Patina Maldives, a resort on the Fari Islands that opened in 2021. Roots aims to delight visitors with innovative and tasty vegetarian dishes.

‘At Roots, we strongly advocate for plant-based eating. We offer a special menu sourced directly from our own organic garden, where we cultivate all of our ingredients,’ says Abdulla Rifzan, junior sous chef at Patina Maldives.

Hailing from Gemanafushi in the Huvadhoo Atoll, the Maldivian chef trained in both French and Japanese culinary traditions before joining Roots.

Previously, some of his favorite dishes to prepare included foie gras torchon and lobster thermidor.

However, working at Roots has transformed his perspective on cooking.

'In the Maldives, it's crucial for our culture to adopt greener practices,' he says. 'Being a country of small islands, cooking plant-based dishes with locally grown ingredients benefits both the environment and the community.'

Offering a sustainable dining choice for visitors

Patina isn't the first resort here to introduce a vegetarian dining option.

The rise of plant-based concepts in the Maldives began with Just Veg at Atmosphere Kanifushi Maldives, which was the first vegetarian restaurant in a Maldivian resort, opening in 2013.

However, a restaurant with a garden as large as Roots' is quite unusual.

John Bakker, executive chef at Patina and Roots, shares, 'Many resorts in the Maldives have been embracing farm-to-table and plant-based concepts for years.'

'Roots represents the next phase of that evolution... it's incorporating the global trends in the plant-based movement,' he adds.

Given that much of the food in the Maldives is imported, restaurants often rely on external sources for their ingredients.

While Patina takes a mindful approach – opting for glass over plastic and sourcing locally when possible – the presence of its own garden helps drastically lower the carbon footprint of the ingredients used at Roots.

With over two decades of experience working in restaurants worldwide, Bakker observes that dining habits have shifted significantly over the past decade.

'People are increasingly seeking healthier diets. There's a growing sense that what we eat is a personal responsibility and that it impacts the broader picture of sustainability,' says the chef.

And this mindset goes beyond just the meals served at the table.

Patina utilizes its own biodigester to convert a significant portion of the island's waste – from its 12 restaurants – into nutrient-rich compost, which is then used to nourish Roots’ garden.

A new vision of luxury

'The meaning of luxury has evolved. When guests come to the Maldives, they seek out unique experiences and aim to make a positive impact,' says Nicolas Khairallah, general manager of Gili Lankanfushi, one of the most eco-conscious resorts in the Maldives.

'Our concept of barefoot luxury aligns with sustainability, offering our guests a peaceful and beautiful experience. Luxury is found in life's simple pleasures, like enjoying fresh, organic produce from our garden.'

A tour of Gili Lankanfushi’s organic garden, which features native fruit trees and fresh greens, is one of the culinary experiences available to guests.

The kitchen also prioritizes local seafood sourcing to help minimize its carbon footprint.

Along with its waste digester, the resort plans to introduce a biorefinery by year’s end to convert used cooking oil into biodiesel.

Shifting views on plant-based cuisine

Patina's plant-based restaurant has bigger plans in the works.

Bakker is designing a new dining space right in the heart of the garden, aiming to make plant-based dining a more enticing choice for guests.

'Plant-based cuisine is far more intricate than many give it credit for. It's not just vegetables on a plate. We're working to create complex dishes with a range of flavors and textures using modern cooking techniques,' says Bakker.

For Rifzan, pushing boundaries and exploring new techniques is both a challenge and a source of excitement.

Working with the garden's own produce, the chefs at Roots get creative to enhance the menu's complexity, crafting dishes like the 'Textures of Artichokes.' This signature dish features a cashew nut puree base, topped with various artichoke textures, from crisps to mash.

'The feedback we’re getting from guests is mostly 'wow',' says the junior chef.

'They’re often surprised by the unique flavors, particularly in the plant-based dishes,' he adds.

Bakker hopes that the Roots experience will inspire guests to adopt a more sustainable diet during their stay and continue it long after they leave.

'Most of our guests have never dined at a plant-based or vegan restaurant before,' says Bakker.

'In their everyday life, they might have two options and wouldn't typically choose plant-based. But while on vacation, with the choice of 12 restaurants, they might decide to give it a try for a day,' he explains.

'The response has been one of surprise and delight. Many never expected plant-based food to be so complex, flavorful, and full of texture – all qualities we're striving to deliver with the Roots concept. It's been an overwhelmingly positive experience.'