Conquering the lesser-known peaks of France's Auvergne region

Our slow travel series delves into how to embark on more mindful journeys by train, boat, bus, bike, or hike – offering tips on reaching your destination and enjoying the sights and activities along the way. In this latest chapter, Anna Richards presents a summer hiking alternative to the Alps in France.

On a quest to scale the volcanic peaks known as puys in the Auvergne region, I set myself the challenge of conquering as many as possible. This endeavor, often termed puy-bagging, parallels the Scottish tradition of munro-bagging, where hikers aim to summit multiple peaks. With 80 puys scattered across the Auvergne, how many could I ascend in one outing while relishing the experience at a leisurely pace?

Challenge accepted!

Get set, go!

Each year, around 20,000 hikers put on their boots to tackle the 166km (103-mile) Tour du Mont Blanc; during peak season, Chamonix can see up to 100,000 visitors daily. While I appreciate the draw of alpine summits, having hiked them myself, I sometimes find myself longing for the tranquility of a stroll in my hometown, Lyon. It is still possible to discover quiet hiking trails there – but for truly untouched landscapes that are off the beaten path, the Auvergne might just be the hidden gem for hiking in France that you’ve been missing.

The Journey Begins

Begin at Puy de Dôme

Topped with a distinctive antenna, Puy de Dôme in Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d’Auvergne is, at just 11,000 years old, one of the youngest puys in the 45km (28-mile) region. It is one of the 80 extinct volcanic cones that make up La Chaîne des Puys. Standing at 1465m (4806ft), Puy de Dôme may not rival Mont Blanc in height, but it is taller than Ben Nevis. Similar to hiking in Scotland, such elevations allow you to “bag” several puys in a single day.

Given the need to drive between peaks and my commitment to reducing my carbon footprint, I focused on the nearest summits with the shortest travel times. A three-hour trek from the Panoramique des Dômes parking area takes you to the research station at the top of Puy de Dôme, offering stunning views over Clermont-Ferrand. (For those not up for the hike, a cog railway can whisk you to the summit.)

Upcoming destinations...

Puy de Sancy: trade the chairlift for a picturesque hike

My next destination, Puy de Sancy, stands as the highest peak in the Auvergne at 1885m (6185ft). During the peak of summer, its relative ease of access can turn it into the busiest hiking trail in the region. The Sancy chairlift operates year-round, and from its station, it’s just a brief 15-minute stroll along wooden boardwalks and steps to the summit. Nevertheless, it draws around 500,000 visitors annually – a figure that Chamonix can receive in just a single week.

If you can, skip the chairlift: the three-hour loop hike from the base to Puy de Sancy is remarkably scenic and diverse. The first half features a steep ascent along the ski slopes, passing khaki and mud-colored pistes dotted with waterfalls. The return journey is much more rugged; a clearly marked path navigates through obstructing rock formations rather than around them, requiring some hand usage at times. As you near the crest of the trail, civilization disappears from view for most of the descent.

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Puy Mary: following the “Cheese Route” for the most breathtaking views

It takes a two-hour drive to reach the final puy on my list: Puy Mary, standing at 1783m (5850ft) and reputed to have the most stunning views of them all. I follow the Cheese Route, a cleverly marketed path aimed at boosting rural tourism and encouraging visits to remote dairy farms. (Unfortunately, most farms now require advance reservations for tastings due to post-COVID measures.) The vistas along the route are breathtaking. I pass russet-hued cattle – reminding me of Scotland’s Highland cows – and hills that seamlessly blend into one another, as if sketched on tracing paper. The heavy clouds are a deep purple and grey, looking as if the sky had a tussle with the puys and lost.

Unfortunately, luck isn’t on my side with the weather; clouds roll in around me. Even in late May, I spot a few snowflakes. Puy Mary, which resembles a clown's conical hat in photos, is today blurred at the edges. With visibility compromised, I choose the shortest route, taking under an hour, parking at Pas de Peyrol.

The trail is completely deserted. As I descend, I notice a stone buron: similar to bothies in Scotland, these former shepherd’s huts now often serve as mountain shelters, equipped with communal kitchens, basic amenities, and dormitory-style sleeping arrangements. This buron, the Refuge d’Eylac, can accommodate 14 guests, with additional camping space outside. Enveloped in mist, it resembles something from The Woman in Black.

The conclusion

Three puys conquered

Three puys conquered – with 77 more awaiting my next adventure. While the weather wasn't ideal for puy-bagging, it allowed me to count the fellow hikers I met on one hand.

How to make it happen

Visorando offers downloadable GPS tracks for most of the puys. For those seeking a multi-day experience, the 115km (71-mile) GR441 forms a loop trail starting near Volvic in Puy de Dôme, usually taking three to four days to finish. The region boasts numerous excellent hotels and lodges, averaging around €80 per night.