The Alaska Railroad Showcases Breathtaking Scenery and Isolated Communities

In the stillness of night, the conductor leans out of the midnight blue and gold locomotive, cups his hands around his mouth, and announces: “ALLLLL ABOARD!”

Our group boards the Alaska Railroad and climbs a narrow spiral staircase to the Adventure Class—an upper-level seating area featuring expansive picture windows designed to enhance views of moose, bears, and eagles frequently seen along the route.

As the alpenglow begins to illuminate the peaks of the Chugach Range in a gentle rose-gold hue, the train jerks out of the Anchorage Depot and sets off northward. Before we’ve fully exited Alaska’s largest city, the conductor makes another appearance.

“Ticket, please.”

With a flourish, he punches out eight stars representing the Big Dipper and the North Star into the ticket and hands it back. This constellation also appears on the Alaska state flag, although the Alaska Railroad has a history that predates it. The railroad has witnessed and contributed to many significant events in Alaska's history: the establishment of Denali National Park in 1917, statehood in 1959, and the construction of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline in the 1970s. It even predates several of the communities it serves, making it an integral part of the region's heritage. Anchorage, which is now the largest city in the 49th state and home to nearly half of its residents, was originally established as a tent city to support the railroad's construction.

However, when the full route reopens for the summer season in 2023 (an abbreviated service operates during winter), it will mark a milestone of its own. It will have been 100 years since President Harding drove a golden spike into the rail belt near Nenana, symbolizing the completion of the Alaska Railroad.

At its inception (construction began in 1903 and finished in 1923), the Alaska Railroad was designed to link Seward, a small coastal port on the Kenai Peninsula, with Fairbanks’ Chena River, which connects to the Tanana and Yukon rivers that served as the interior of Alaska's waterway network, located 500 miles to the north. The government concluded that merging these transportation routes would be crucial for the success of mining and military endeavors in the then-territory.

Although the Alaska Railroad still transports freight, it primarily serves to ferry tourists from southcentral Alaska to the interior—approximately 500,000 travelers experience at least one of the five main routes connecting Seward and Fairbanks each year.

This morning, we're headed to Denali National Park, located 240 miles from Anchorage and home to the highest peak on the continent. Progress is slow—the train's maximum speed is 30 miles per hour (at one point, a young bull moose scurries past us towards the woods), meaning it will take eight hours to arrive at our destination, while the same journey by car takes about four hours. However, the train tracks do not follow the highway for the latter half of the trip. Despite having lived in Alaska for nearly seven years and frequently traveling between Anchorage and Denali, this is a part of the state I had never seen before. Many of Alaska’s most breathtaking landscapes can only be viewed from the train.

As we head north, departing from the cluster of low-rise office buildings that form downtown Anchorage and passing through the joint military bases of Elmendorf and Richardson, the steel and brick structures begin to fade, giving way to spruce trees and vibrant pink subalpine wildflowers known as fireweed.

As the views expand, enthusiastic wildlife watchers press their faces against the windows. Every bush and rock becomes a point of interest. "Was that a bear?" an older woman inquires of the attendant. It’s not, but numerous creatures such as moose, eagles, and foxes will surprise us throughout the journey. While it's hard to predict when a furry or feathered friend will show up, the attendant mentions that meadows, lagoons, and lakes usually provide better opportunities for spotting animals—open spaces make them easier to see.

One of those expansive areas prompts the first audible gasp from the passengers aboard the train. As it curves around, the Knik River, a milky blue from glacial silt, comes into view. Towering behind it are the mountains of the Chugach Range, their jagged peaks piercing the blue sky like shards of shattered pottery. The entire scene is illuminated by a warm, buttery light that seems almost tangible enough to hold.

Guests are encouraged to explore the train, and many passengers, myself included, rush out to the open-air observation deck to capture photos. None truly capture the beauty. As the train winds around the edge of the mountain range and descends into the forest, passengers return to the cabin, shaking their heads as if awakening from a dream.

For the next two hours, the train travels between the winding Susitna River on the left and a seemingly endless stretch of black spruce to the right. The attendants narrate the landscape, sharing tales of the Indigenous peoples and explorers who once roamed these lands, explaining how glaciers and earthquakes shaped the local terrain, and answering questions about the views.

Just before enjoying a lunch of reindeer penne bolognese, we make a brief stop, allowing a few passengers to hop off in Talkeetna, a quirky village with a population of about 1,000 that inspired the TV show Northern Exposure. Despite its size, this community once gained national fame when it was mistakenly reported by national media that a cat named Stubbs had been elected mayor. (In reality, Talkeetna is a historic district with no elections, so the feline’s title was more honorary.) If the morning had been clear, we would have glimpsed Denali, known as the Great One by Alaska’s Indigenous people, from here. However, the mountain is elusive—it’s estimated that only 30 percent of visitors to Alaska will catch a full view of its 20,310 feet. Today, the snow-dusted summit pierces through layers of pancake-shaped clouds.

Just past Talkeetna, the tracks, bright yellow from the fallen leaves of nearby birch trees, veer away from the highway and into some of Alaska’s true wilderness, known as the Hurricane Flagstop Area.

Between here and Denali lies the last flagstop service in the country, allowing travelers to wave an article of clothing or stick out a thumb to signal the train to stop and pick them up. This service is primarily used by homesteaders living in cabins completely off the grid—it's their only means of reaching this remote part of the state. For them, it’s a vital lifeline, the sole way to access larger cities for supplies or medical assistance and sometimes their only connection to the outside world, as cell reception is scarce.

“I can understand why people choose to live out here,” a fellow traveler shares with me on the Observation Deck as we gaze at the swirling reflections in the Indian River. “This landscape is so stunning, it could break your heart.”

When the air turns chilly, we retreat inside to find a retired teacher captivating the passengers with a recitation of “The Cremation of Sam McGee” by Robert Service, a poet known for his evocative verses about the Alaskan wilderness. (Three days later, we would hear another of his poems on the breathtaking journey from Anchorage to Seward, a route that follows the 60-mile Turnagain Arm along Cook Inlet, ascending over mountain passes and alongside river gorges and striking electric-blue glaciers before reaching the coast and Kenai Fjords National Park.) My group buzzes with conversation about the performance as the attendant announces we’re approaching the Hurricane Gulch Bridge, advising us to prepare our cameras.

As we approach the 918-foot-long steel arch bridge, perched nearly 300 feet above the gulch it’s named for, the train slows to a crawl. From this vantage point, we can admire the vibrant tapestry of colors: the swift blue waters of the Chulitna River, the crimson of the shrubs lining its banks, the golden birch trees below, and the rich emerald of the deciduous trees further up the slope. Surrounding us are expansive views of the grayish-purple Alaska Range, each peak dusted with the season's first snow.

From this spot, Denali National Park and its quaint train station are just a short distance away, where we intend to spend the next few days hiking and soaking in the vibrant fall colors.

“Wow,” my friend remarks as we grab our bags. “That was truly magical. . . . We may have spent eight hours on that train, but I’m already looking forward to the return journey.”

Important information to consider before your journey

From early May to mid-September, the Alaska Railroad offers three primary train routes, all departing from Anchorage: the Coastal Classic to Seward, the Glacier Discovery to Spencer Glacier, and the Denali Star to Fairbanks. None of these routes are direct; each train stops at various communities along the way. For instance, the Denali Star makes stops at Wasilla, Talkeetna, Denali National Park, and Nenana. Additionally, there's the Hurricane Turn Flagstop service, which travels from Talkeetna to Hurricane Gulch, where a nearly 300-foot-tall bridge spans a canyon that provides views of Denali, the tallest mountain in North America, on clear days.

During the winter months, passengers can board the Aurora Winter train for a journey from Anchorage to Fairbanks. It's a common misconception that the northern lights can be seen along this route, but that's unlikely since the train runs during daylight hours.

Experiences on the Alaska Railroad

Typically, travelers on the Alaska Railroad spend an afternoon or overnight at their chosen destination, as the journey is lengthy and the itineraries are designed to allow guests to fully experience Alaska's communities. Here are some ideas to make the most of your time in the areas outside Anchorage.

Observe whales during a day cruise in Seward.

This port city, surrounded by the stunning mountains of Kenai Fjords National Park and the striking blue waters of Resurrection Bay, is renowned for its day cruises offered by Major Marine Tours and Kenai Fjords Tours. On these four-hour excursions, visitors can witness some of the more than 100,000 glaciers in Alaska, a variety of wildlife (including whales, Steller sea lions, and marine birds), and the breathtaking fjords that give the national park its name. Additional activities in Seward include hiking (with Mount Marathon being a popular yet challenging trail), visiting the Alaska SeaLife Center, and going on a half-day salmon fishing charter.

Navigate among the icebergs at Spencer Glacier.

Spencer Glacier is considered the Alaska Railroad’s “home glacier”—the only access to the 3,500-foot-tall river of ice in the backcountry is by train. Once there, most visitors choose to hop on rafts, paddling across the surreal blue waters of Spencer Lake, maneuvering around icebergs and bits of ice to get up close to the glacier's face. Another option is to hike to the glacier, but due to time limitations, it's advisable to camp overnight and catch the train back the next day if you want to pursue this option.

Explore glaciers in Whittier on a Sea-Doo adventure.

This small community, nestled between the Chugach Mountains and Prince William Sound, boasts the highest concentration of tidewater glaciers in the world. While you can view them on a day cruise, for a truly memorable experience, we suggest joining a guided Sea-Doo tour. Alaska Wild Guides offers half-day excursions where participants can operate their own Jet Skis, exploring up to 10 glaciers while searching for waterfalls, harbor seals, and kittiwake birds along the route.

Trek through Hatcher Pass near Wasilla and Palmer.

Located just beyond the Chugach Mountains from Anchorage, the neighboring towns of Wasilla and Palmer serve as gateways to adventures in the Matanuska Valley, including scenic drives and hikes in Hatcher Pass, visiting Independence Mine, and taking a Cam-Am ride to Knik Glacier. Many Anchorage residents also enjoy riding the train in late August and early September to attend the Alaska State Fair.

Get to know sled dogs in Talkeetna.

This quirky little town is a perfect stop for those seeking a more relaxed day. Its main street features a variety of art shops and gift boutiques, inviting cafés, a brewery, and a distillery, along with stunning views of Denali on clear days from the river at the far end. Dallas Seavey, one of the most celebrated Iditarod champions, operates his kennel, AK Sled Dog Tours, in Talkeetna, where visitors can meet the dogs year-round.

Experience Denali National Park from above.

As the home of North America's tallest peak, it's no surprise that the activities in this national park primarily focus on outdoor adventures. A popular way to explore the area is by taking a bus tour of the park. Since private vehicles are restricted beyond Mile 15 of the Park Road (the only entry point), this is the primary way to reach the park's interior unless you choose to hike or bike. For a closer look at the majestic mountain, visitors can opt for a flightseeing tour with well-known operators like Denali Air and Temsco Helicopters Denali. Additionally, there are numerous hiking trails near the park entrance, including one that leads to the Denali National Park sled dog kennel.

Explore the northernmost brewery in Fairbanks.

Once a gold rush destination, Fairbanks now attracts visitors eager to witness the midnight sun in summer or the northern lights in winter. During the summer months, travelers can enjoy a Riverboat Discovery Tour on the Chena River, featuring fish wheels and dog sledding demonstrations; visit the Museum of the North to learn about climate change, Indigenous art, and view a 50,000-year-old mummified bison; venture into the rugged backcountry with Midnight Sun ATV tours; hike alongside reindeer; and check out Silver Gulch, the northernmost brewery in the U.S. In winter, guests can join guided snow machining (snowmobiling) tours to Chena Hot Springs and take a bush plane with Northern Alaska Tour Company to Coldfoot, a town famous for its spectacular auroras. (It’s also located above the Arctic Circle, a rare destination for less than two percent of Alaska's travelers.)