Copy My Trip: A luxurious train journey through the Canadian Rockies

Dinogo Planet Destination Editor Melissa Yeager recently embarked on a journey aboard the Rocky Mountaineer, traveling through the Canadian Rockies from Vancouver to Jasper and then to Banff. Here, she offers valuable tips and insights for those planning a similar adventure.

As a passionate hiker and someone who loves the outdoors, I've always dreamed of exploring the Canadian Rockies, particularly the stunning areas of Alberta, such as Jasper and Banff.

If you share this dream, you’ve likely imagined traveling through these breathtaking landscapes by train and staying in picturesque cabins and resorts nestled among the mountains and lakes.

The Rocky Mountaineer is one of the companies providing train journeys through this magnificent scenery, attracting visitors from Australia, the UK, and the US.

The itinerary I followed, Journey through the Clouds, started with two days in Vancouver, then our first day on the train to the quaint town of Kamloops. On the second day, we journeyed to Jasper for a day before boarding a bus to traverse the breathtaking Icefields Parkway to Banff, with stops at stunning glaciers, waterfalls, and lakes along the way.

Here’s a glimpse of my experience to help you determine if this trip is right for you.

What is a day on the train like?

Overall, the train lives up to its luxurious reputation, although your experience will depend on the service level you choose. Rocky Mountaineer offers two options: GoldLeaf (the top tier) and SilverLeaf (still excellent but with slightly less space and no dining car). Prices for SilverLeaf on this two-day journey start at $1,599 per person, while GoldLeaf begins at $2,300 per person. (Pricing varies based on your travel dates and increases with added days, hotel types, and tours.)

I traveled in GoldLeaf service for this journey, so my insights reflect that experience. For details on SilverLeaf service, check out Dinogo Planet Editor Alex Howard’s account of his Rocky Mountaineer trip from Moab to Denver.

GoldLeaf cars are impressive as they are double-decker: the upper level features spacious reclining chairs beneath a glass dome for relaxation, while the lower level includes the dining car and an outdoor platform for photos or enjoying the fresh air. There’s an elevator for easy access and two restrooms available in the car.

Shortly after boarding, I made my way to the dining car for a delicious breakfast crafted by a team of chefs in the galley. Usually, half the passengers savor coffee and pastries while the others dine, then they switch places.

After breakfast, I returned to the upper level to take in the views, accompanied by interesting tidbits from our host. The crew offers a selection of beverages (both alcoholic and non-alcoholic) along with a nut mix between meals.

The seats recline and have heating features, which I found particularly nice on the first day when the rainy weather made the car a bit chilly. There are power outlets available in each section to recharge your devices.

At lunchtime, the crew invites you back to the dining car for a freshly cooked meal and dessert. The ingredients are sourced from local communities along the route. Some dishes are repeated over the two days, while others are unique. If you're unsure what to choose, feel free to ask your host for recommendations. After lunch, head upstairs for more breathtaking views, drinks, and snacks, or catch up on the onboard newspaper that highlights the upcoming stops.

Just so you know, Rocky Mountaineer operates on Canadian National and CPKC tracks, so there will be moments when the train stops to let other trains pass. However, this might be the one train ride where you don't mind delays—not only due to the stunning scenery but also because the chefs will prepare another meal for you if the arrival time overlaps with dinner. During my trip, that included a beautifully plated cannelloni dinner served right at our seats.

Should I bring a book or something to keep myself entertained?

Absolutely, but don’t overpack, as you might not need much—nearly every sight outside your window on this scenic train journey is captivating. As you near a landmark, the tour guide will announce it, and the train will slow down, allowing everyone to snap photos. You can soak in the views from the comfort of your seat or stroll to the outdoor platform for an unobstructed look. My favorite stretch was from Vancouver to Jasper, where the scenery became increasingly stunning as we entered the mountains.

I brought my Kindle along but ended up not using it. It was much more enjoyable to listen to a playlist on my iPhone while taking in the passing scenery. During a delay, the hosts distributed playing cards, yet most travelers seemed to prefer admiring the views and chatting with fellow passengers.

What accommodations did you choose? How were the hotels?

On the Rocky Mountaineer, you don’t spend the night on the train. Each evening, you check into a hotel where porters transport your luggage to the next destination. You simply arrive at your room to find your bags waiting for you. All you need for the train is a small daypack with essentials, maybe a camera, a book, and in my case, a compact watercolor set that I used during the trip.

My first two nights were spent at the Fairmont Waterfront, aptly named for its stunning waterfront views. The cruise terminal is just across the street, making it a very pedestrian-friendly area. I enjoyed a lovely walk back from Stanley Park to the hotel and had the chance to visit art exhibitions at the Vancouver Art Gallery and Bill Reid Gallery.

On my third day, I boarded the train for the first time, ending up in Kamloops. Since the stay here is brief (just dinner and a night’s rest), the Delta (Marriott Brand) hotel is comfortable and conveniently located near various dining options.

The final day on the train concluded at the stunning Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, my favorite accommodation. As our bus arrived at the entrance, we were greeted by a grizzly bear and her albino cub near a tranquil lake. I enjoyed two nights here and wished for more time to soak in the tranquility of the property, along with its heated pool, boathouse, and spa.

After a scenic bus ride along the Icefields Parkway, my last night was at the Rimrock Resort in Banff. This resort boasts breathtaking mountain views and is located near its renowned sister property, the Fairmont Banff Springs. The gondola and hot springs, resembling a heated pool, are just a short walk away. The resort is known for its excellent dining options, and you can book a tasting at its acclaimed wine cellar via Open Table.

The Rimrock has recently come under the ownership of the Fairmont group, so while the rooms offer comfort and stunning views of Banff, I anticipate an upcoming refresh to enhance its natural ambiance in the near future.

What was your favorite activity from the trip?

There’s an abundance of amazing wildlife to see—always from a safe distance! I particularly enjoyed the wildlife bus tour I took in Jasper. You board a bus with a guide who points out various animals, sharing insights about each species and offering safety tips. You also have the chance to explore Maligne Canyon on foot to view the waterfalls—a fantastic way to safely and conveniently spot creatures like bears and elk while learning about their seasonal behaviors.

What were the most useful items you packed?

Cozy, flexible pants, my iPhone, and a great playlist! Pro-tip: don't forget to pack your iPhone charger in your daypack. You'll snap so many photos that you might need to recharge at the charging stations available at each seat. Also, since some areas lack cell service, switch your phone to airplane mode to conserve battery life.

What do you wish you had brought along?

A few travelers had Octogrips for their phones, and I was really envious. These attach to the back of your iPhone, allowing you to stick it to the window for glare-free photos. Plus, they’re useful for attaching to other surfaces so you don’t drop your phone.

What’s the best advice for someone planning this trip?

Take your time and savor the experience. This journey is perfect for those seeking an accessible or multigenerational adventure, and even those who struggle to sit still will likely find the train ride enjoyable.

Wear comfortable pants and dress in layers. With the upper deck being mostly glass, temperatures can vary based on the weather. Don’t forget your sunglasses for the bright moments in the cabin.

Melissa journeyed on the Journey through the Clouds route to Vancouver, Kamloops, Jasper, and Banff by invitation from Rocky Mountaineer. Dinogo Planet contributors do not accept complimentary services in exchange for favorable coverage.