Exploring the Camino? Discover why a diversion to the Variante Espiritual is worthwhile.

At dawn, we navigate through a forest along the Galician coast. 'Dad's here,' I tell my partner Liz as we carefully tread over the cobblestone path, leaving behind the town of Poio and the monastery where we spent the night. In the two years since his passing, my father often makes his presence known during these significant moments at the end of a long journey.
Once more, Dad is with us on the Variante Espiritual.
For almost 1,300 years, Christian pilgrims have journeyed along the Camino de Santiago, traversing various routes across Europe to reach the historic Spanish city of Santiago de Compostela, believed to be the resting place of Saint James the apostle. While the route from France currently attracts about 80% of pilgrims, the trail Liz and I are on—the Camino Portugués—sees about 20%.
That still amounts to enough foot traffic to fill the many hostels and albergues lining the nearly 300km path from Porto to Santiago during peak season. However, on the Variante Espiritual, the crowd thins out to nearly nothing. It’s the perfect setting to be alone with your thoughts, your partner, or any lingering memories that accompany you on your journey.

As pilgrims near the conclusion of their typical two-week trek from Porto, they face a decision—extend their journey by several days with a 28km detour over the mountain passes of the Variante Espiritual, or take a quick one-day dash to Padron, a town just a day’s walk from their destination.
While most choose the direct route, I recommend adding not just two, but three days to experience the surreal landscapes of the Variante Espiritual.
Starting just outside Pontevedra, the familiar stone markers of the Camino Portugués give way to smaller wooden signs and the occasional boulder adorned with a yellow arrow. The constant flow of travelers on the Central Route transforms into a handful of wanderers exploring the quaint villages, lush woodlands, and vineyards of this detour. Here, you might spend an entire day without hearing the familiar greeting of fellow pilgrims: “Bom Caminho!”
Visit Mosteiro de San Xoan de Poio
The striking alabaster walls of the Mosteiro de San Xoan de Poio rise majestically over the town of Poio, just half a day’s walk from the Central Route at Pontevedra, where many pilgrims rest for the night. The thrill of diverging from the main path may urge travelers to bypass this impressive 17th-century structure; however, the allure of its mosaic-adorned cloisters and the modest tomb of Saint Trahamunda invites them to stay awhile.

Established in the seventh century, the monastery features an adjoining hotel managed by the Order of Our Lady of Mercy, offering cozy accommodations and a bar for tired pilgrims. After nearly two weeks of trekking with heavy packs from Porto, Liz and I were more than ready to check into the monastery early and unwind while exploring the beautiful grounds and the town below.
Nearby Restaurante A Nova Cepa offers breathtaking views along with traditional Spanish cuisine, while peregrinos looking for a more relaxed vibe might enjoy a stroll downhill to Café-Bar Aquelo.
A Monastery with a Knight's Legend
Start your day early in Poio (the nuns will provide breakfast) and tackle the nearly 2,000ft ascent over Mount Castro to Mosteiro de Armenteira. After an early morning departure, our small group reaches the Variante Espiritual’s second monastery by around 1:00 p.m., pausing briefly at a cooler stocked with complimentary drinks for pilgrims halfway up the mountain.
The reward for spending the morning navigating narrow mountain trails—many shaped by centuries of footsteps—is truly spectacular. The 12th-century sanctuary at Mosteiro de Armenteira was established by a Cistercian knight who reportedly spent 300 years immersed in a vision of paradise bestowed upon him by the Virgin Mary in the nearby woods.

The monastery grounds feature an albergue providing nightly accommodations, along with a selection of restaurants and gift shops. The hand-carved stone archways here mark the pinnacle of a storybook-like path that pilgrims can choose to traverse in one day or savor over a leisurely morning. Its entrance is located just beyond the gates.
The Route of Water and Stone
As we depart Mosteiro de Armenteira, waterfalls, ancient aqueducts, and moss-covered ruins of Galician watermills lead us down Mount Castro toward the sea via the Variante Espiritual. “This feels unreal,” Liz remarked as vibrant sun rays pierced the forest canopy, illuminating dandelion seeds fluttering above the bubbling stream. Here, the Variante Espiritual merges with the Ruta da Pedra e da Agua (The Route of Water and Stone) for an 8.2 km segment that is worth countless days of travel to experience.

By mid-afternoon, we find ourselves racing against the clock to complete a challenging journey of over 20 km from Poio to a hotel in Vilanova de Arousa, regretting not booking an additional night in Armenteira, nearly the halfway mark. Nonetheless, our afternoon spent pursuing daylight along the gently flowing Rego de Armenteira and the broader, more leisurely Rio Umia, before crossing through vineyard-laden scenery into the bustling Vilanova de Arousa, made the kilometers seem to fly by.
Earn a stamp on your nautical adventure
If you're collecting passport stamps to receive your Compostela in Santiago, the last leg of the Variante Espiritual gives you your sole opportunity to earn one aboard a boat.
To seize this chance, Liz and I rise at dawn for a dockside meeting with Amare Turismo Nautico. We catch a ride 28km up the Rio Ulla to Pontecesures, from where we'll head to Padron and make a final sprint to the finish line in Santiago. This waterway retraces the legendary path of St. James' remains, passing by numerous stone crosses that commemorate their journey from over a millennium ago. Through the morning fog, we glide past remnants of more recent history—Viking longboats and medieval fortifications erected to guard against northern invaders.

Two hours after boarding, we find ourselves back on solid ground, where we spot a pair of pilgrims on horseback galloping eastward toward Santiago. I squint against the brightening sun, watching the horses weave past a line of fellow travelers equipped with walking sticks and backpacks. Their receding silhouettes evoke childhood tales of horseback adventures told by my father over three decades ago. As the riders vanish over the horizon, I can almost sense my father's warm smile beside me.
Now we're back on the main path of the Camino Portugués. Many of our fellow pilgrims will have missed the dilapidated watermills and the tale of the knight and the bartending nuns on the Variante Espiritual. Tonight, Liz, Dad, and I will reunite with them all in Santiago.
How to Make It Happen
Embark on the Camino Portugués from Porto. Both the Coastal and Central Routes lead to Pontevedra, where pilgrims can easily diverge onto the Variante Espiritual using clearly marked signs just north of the town. During the peak season from May to August, I recommend securing accommodations at the monasteries (usually under €50) in advance. Wise Pilgrim provides a handy smartphone guide for the Camino Portugués, which is especially useful when trail markers are less frequent.

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Evaluation :
5/5