Culinary Delights: where to savor food and drinks in Portland

The Portland of my youth was a quaint blend of verdant hills and a charming, if slightly rough-around-the-edges, urban core. While we lacked the glitz of larger cities like Los Angeles and New York, we enjoyed an abundance of fresh, local produce sourced from the fertile farmland surrounding us. This bounty attracted culinary talents, and over the past few decades, the City of Roses has cultivated a food scene that rivals those of much larger culinary capitals. Nowadays, we have everything from chic fine-dining establishments with reservations that vanish in a heartbeat to laid-back food carts (a beloved Portland staple) serving global flavors.

I take great pride in the evolution of Portland's dining landscape. Here are some of my favorite eateries in my hometown, ranging from beloved classics to exciting newcomers that have captured my heart.

Breakfast Delights

During my early 20s in Paris, I developed a serious passion for enjoying pastries at breakfast, a love that continues to this day. Now back in Portland, I've swapped my cherished pains aux raisins for fluffy cardamom orange blossom buns, the signature brioche-style creation from Orange & Blossom. Until 2023, founder Marisa Kroes’s delightful treats were only available at local farmers markets (and often sold out quickly). Today, this organic, plant-based patisserie has a cozy spot in Northeast Portland, making it easy to indulge in cakes, cookies, scones, and focaccia without sacrificing those precious weekend mornings.

For a heartier breakfast, visit Paradox Café on Southeast Portland’s Belmont Street. It's one of the few remnants from what many affectionately call “Old Portland,” a time when the city felt less crowded and embraced a gritty, DIY punk vibe. Expect a blend of 1950s diner charm mixed with local artwork. While the star attractions are the generous portions of maple syrup-laden corncakes and colossal breakfast burritos, they also offer burgers and wraps for those leaning toward a more lunch-focused brunch.

Coffee Culture

A true gem from Old Portland, Anna Bananas in Northwest Portland is one of the city's oldest coffeehouses. This cozy spot resembles a home more than a cafe, featuring tables scattered across several inviting rooms and a dimly lit basement, ideal for curling up with a book on a gray Portland day.

While I cherish the nostalgic vibe at Anna Bananas, if you're passionate about espresso drinks, Coava Coffee Roasters’ flagship location in Southeast Portland is the place to be. They typically offer a selection of single-origin roasts for your beverages, along with numerous bags of their Portland-roasted beans to take home. My only complaint is the extra charge for non-dairy milk.

Lunch Adventures

Few experiences capture the essence of Portland quite like enjoying lunch at one of our vibrant food cart pods, where carts gather around shared tables and facilities. One of my favorites is Lil' America in Southeast Portland, primarily because it hosts Bake on the Run, known for their delicious Guyanese bakes (stuffed hand pies) filled with delights ranging from jam to chickpea-potato curry (my top choice). Be sure to try their chow mein, made with imported Guyanese noodles and topped with their zesty house-made pepper sauce.

Just around the corner from Lil’ America, Warsugai is a fresh addition serving homestyle Asian-American dishes. They offer family-style dinners, but for lunch, you can enjoy plated meals. My favorite is the mapo tofu plate, crafted from tofu sourced from the oldest tofu maker in the U.S. – Ota Tofu, conveniently located nearby. While the food is exceptional, I particularly love their plant wall adorned with neon signs, including a charming animated maneki-neko (Japanese waving cat).

Apertivo

For breathtaking views of Portland, make your way to Departure, a stylish lounge and restaurant situated on the 15th floor of The Nines Hotel downtown. Instead of dining inside, head to the patio area where you can enjoy sake, beer, and wine by the glass, alongside cocktails served over large, intricately imprinted ice cubes, all while soaking in the sights of the city center.

If you prefer to watch the world go by at street level, my top choice is XO Bar in North Portland. They offer ample outdoor seating for sunny days and large picture windows for those more typical Portland weather moments. The cocktails here are delightfully fruity, featuring tropical punch served in fishbowls, along with a variety of beautifully crafted cocktails and mocktails that emphasize vibrant flavors. Don’t miss their extensive menu of vegan pan-Asian snacks, especially the jalapeño and cream cheese wontons.

Dinner Delights

Portland restaurants truly excel at maximizing seasonal ingredients. One of my new favorites is Feral in Northeast Portland, which boasts a frequently changing menu of plant-based creations that highlight locally sourced and foraged components. While every visit brings something new, you can always anticipate inventive dishes like imitation fish ‘n’ chips made from deep-fried kimchi or carbonara toast generously topped with cannellini beans.

For a Spanish culinary experience with a Pacific Northwest flair, book a table at Uradenta, also located in Northeast Portland. Similar to Feral, their menu varies based on seasonal availability, but you can typically find a robust selection of small tapas and larger plates featuring seafood, red meat, and vegetarian options. Don’t forget to order a personalized vermouth flight to complement your meal – I had no idea vermouth could be so refreshing on the rocks before my visit!

Bar Scene

Hungry Tiger in Southeast Portland truly captures the essence of Old Portland like no other place, complete with a soundtrack featuring legendary local punk bands such as Dead Moon and the Wipers. True to its name, the walls are adorned with vintage tiger imagery, ranging from quirky classic to unapologetically rock’n’roll. It’s an ideal spot to relax at the end of the night with a strong cocktail, a corndog, and some games of pool or pinball.

If you’re seeking a contrasting vibe, cross the Willamette River to find The Green Room in downtown Portland. This charming lounge is situated on the ground floor of the exclusive Multnomah Whiskey Library and serves many of the same exquisite drinks beneath a stunning green-and-white stained-glass ceiling.