Current atmosphere: What it's like in Italy today

With Italy's reopening, you may be curious about the real situation on the ground. As an American residing in Rome throughout the pandemic, I can assure you that things feel significantly more normal now than at nearly any time since March 2020. However, this doesn’t mean everything is exactly as it was before; the pandemic's impact will linger for several months.

Nevertheless, a renewed sense of optimism is permeating Italy, and it’s evident almost everywhere I've visited. Restaurants are bustling, hotel occupancy is the highest it’s been since the pandemic began, and several new openings are adding excitement to the country.

"Travel is cautiously making a comeback, and tourists are gradually returning to Italy. It’s heartening to see them, and it’s refreshing that we haven’t immediately returned to pre-pandemic tourism levels," said Zoe Shapiro, founder of Stellavision Travel, a new tour company for women. "Slow, sustainable, year-round travel benefits both the industry and Italy's historic sites. That’s why we organize small group tours for eight to ten women at Stellavision, and I believe this approach will shape our experiences in 2021 and 2022."

Requirements for entry

Starting June 21, travelers from the U.S., Canada, Japan, and the EU are no longer required to take COVID-tested flights to enter Italy; instead, they can present a "green certificate."

The new regulation mandates that these travelers provide one of the following: proof of vaccination completed at least 14 days before arriving in Italy, a negative antigen or molecular swab test taken within 48 hours before entry, or proof of recovery from COVID-19.

Travelers must still fill out the European Digital Passenger Locator form before departure. Those who are vaccinated should have received one of the four vaccines authorized by the European Medicines Agency (Pfizer, Moderna, Johnson & Johnson, or AstraZeneca).

In light of the recent detection of the first omicron variant case in Italy, the health minister has prohibited entry to anyone who has visited South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Namibia, Lesotho, or Eswatini in the past 14 days.

Are masks mandatory in Italy?

As of June 28, the Italian government has lifted the outdoor mask mandate, except in situations where social distancing cannot be maintained. However, many cities and regions in Italy are reinstating mask requirements outdoors due to increased crowds during the busy holiday season. Current mask mandates are in effect in cities such as Rome, Florence, Milan, Venice, Bologna, Bergamo, Padua, Genoa, Turin, Cortina d'Ampezzo, and Aosta, as well as in regions like Campania, Sicily, Calabria, and Alto Adige.

Masks are still mandatory on all public transport and when entering indoor venues, such as museums, shops, and restaurants (unless eating or drinking). They are also required at archaeological sites, even outdoors.

What’s open and what’s closed?

Almost everything is open: museums, archaeological sites, shops, restaurants, bars, beaches, pools, and more. However, starting December 6, either the super green pass or the basic green pass (details below) is required for indoor dining as well as for entry to museums, cinemas, theaters, gyms, swimming pools, amusement parks, spas, festivals, fairs, casinos, and sports stadiums.

It's also important to note that many museums now require visitors to buy timed tickets in advance to better manage visitor numbers and maintain social distancing during the pandemic. While some smaller museums have dropped this requirement, many still enforce it.

For instance, when I visited the Giardino dei Tarocchi sculpture garden in Tuscany this summer, I had to reserve timed tickets online, even though it's primarily outdoors. So, if museums, archaeological sites, or other attractions are on your itinerary, be sure to check ahead for timed ticket requirements.

What’s the deal with the green pass?

Italy’s green pass (available in both digital and paper formats) is accessible only to those who have been vaccinated, received a negative test result, or recovered from COVID-19 in Italy. Travelers from other EU countries can use the green pass issued in their own country.

In a crackdown on anti-vaxxers, the super green pass has just been implemented. The super green pass is similar to the basic green pass, but it is exclusively for individuals who have been vaccinated or have recovered from COVID-19. From December 6 to at least January 15, it will be mandatory for indoor dining and recreational activities, including attending cinemas, theaters, and concerts. During this time, the basic green pass will be necessary for entry to museums, hotels, and all public transport.

As reported by Wanted in Rome, Italian authorities will also accept vaccination certificates and medical documentation proving recovery from COVID-19 (within the last six months) from the U.S., U.K., Canada, Israel, and Japan. If you possess a CDC-issued vaccination card, make sure to bring it with you when dining indoors or visiting museums, archaeological sites, and other specified locations.

If you haven't been vaccinated or recovered from COVID-19, you can take an antigen or molecular test available at pharmacies across Italy, but your resulting green pass will only be valid for 48 hours. A green pass obtained through vaccination is valid for 270 days, while one from proof of recovery from COVID-19 lasts for 180 days.

According to Statistica, as of December 8, 84.9% of Italy's population over the age of 12 has been fully vaccinated. Additionally, since October 15, all workers in Italy are required to possess a green pass, ensuring that your waiters, hotel staff, and nearly everyone you encounter has either been vaccinated, recovered, or received a negative test result within the last 48 hours.

Variations by region

Italy's 20 regions are categorized by color according to the number of COVID-19 patients in intensive care, with corresponding restrictions for each color. A region entering a red zone means a complete lockdown, an orange zone indicates a partial lockdown, a yellow zone suggests most activities are open with some limitations, and a white zone means life is (almost) back to normal. Currently, all regions are white zones except for the northern areas of Friuli Venezia Giulia and Alto Adige, which are designated as yellow zones.

"Vaccination is the only way to end this difficult chapter," stated Italy's health minister Roberto Speranza, according to the national news agency Ansa. He emphasized, "The response from Italians has been remarkable, and the vaccination campaign is progressing significantly."

Traveling within Italy

Travel between white and yellow zones is now permitted without needing the auto-certification form that was once required to justify your travel. Over the past six months, I've visited seven other regions (from Lazio to Abruzzo, Tuscany, Umbria, Le Marche, Campania, Sicily, and Lombardia) without needing to show an auto-certification form. The green pass has been mandatory on planes, as well as on high-speed and intercity trains since September 1, with ticket controllers scanning each passenger's QR code when checking tickets.

However, requirements are evolving with the introduction of the super green pass. As of December 6, the basic green pass is now required on all public transportation, including metros, buses, trams, and both regional and high-speed trains. Wanted in Rome reported that the first fine for breaching the new rules was issued to a commuter on a bus in Rome on December 6.

What's happening in Italy

This year, Rome has seen several notable hotel openings, including the Hoxton, Rome (which debuted in May), Soho House (currently in a soft launch), W (which opened on December 6), and Hotel Maalot by Shedir Group, the creators of the luxurious Hotel Vilòn. The Rome Edition is set to launch in early 2022, with new properties from Bulgari, Six Senses, and Rosewood also on the horizon. Anantara has taken over the historic Palazzo Naiadi at Piazza della Repubblica, planning renovations for 2022.

Recently, the city welcomed a trendy Mexican rooftop bar called Hey Güey at Chapter Roma, which has quickly become popular with locals. Additionally, after an investment of 8 million euros (over $9 million) and five years of restoration, the 1st-century B.C. Mausoleum of Augustus (Rome's first emperor) reopened to the public earlier this year, with initial ticket sales selling out in just 48 hours.

Rome isn't the only city brimming with new experiences and accommodations. Celebrated chef Oliver Glowig has moved from Rome to Umbria to open Locanda Petreja, offering gourmet tasting menus featuring fresh local ingredients like black truffles and Cinta Senese pork at Borgo Petroro, a transformed 13th-century castle-turned-country house hotel. In Umbria, Castello di Reschio has introduced an ultra-luxurious hotel crafted by Count Benedikt Bolza within an 11th-century castle on his family's vast estate.

Up north in Venice, Ca' di Dio has launched with a sleek modern aesthetic designed by the renowned Patricia Urquiola in the Arsenale arts district. Borgo Santandrea, the first new five-star hotel on the Amalfi Coast in a decade, opened this summer, boasting a stunning mid-century and Mediterranean design along with a beach club on a lovely stretch of sandy shore. Meanwhile, in Sicily, Villa Igiea has reopened its beautiful 19th-century Art Nouveau doors after being revitalized by Rocco Forte Hotels. Four Seasons has also taken over the San Domenico Palace located in a 14th-century convent in Taormina.