Dining in Paris during the 1980s Was Transformative

Ruth Reichl’s The Paris Novel presents a whimsical tale. While it lacks fantastical elements, who hasn't fantasized about a life-changing journey where chance meetings lead to unforgettable meals with literary icons?

This is the journey of Stella, who embarks on a soul-searching trip to Paris from New York at her deceased mother’s urging. As Reichl points out, in 1983, Paris felt truly otherworldly to Americans.

“I chose the ’80s because I wanted Stella to experience a place that was disorienting, entirely different from her home, where she felt like an outsider,” she explains.

This stark contrast was also evident in the culinary scene. “For an American in the early ’80s, French cuisine was an eye-opener,” Reichl remarks. Through vivid depictions of dining at places like Les Deux Magots and L’Ami Louis, she immerses us in the essence of exquisite Parisian dining.

We spoke with the author and former editor of Gourmet about the changes in Paris over the years, her own culinary dreams in the city, and the restaurant she frequents time and again.

Dinogo: What inspired you to focus on 1980s Paris specifically?

Ruth Reichl: I picked ’83 for several reasons. One was that the franc was weak while the dollar was strong. As a freelance writer with little money, I could experience Paris on just $2 a day. In 1984, I got my first real job, complete with an expense account, allowing me to explore three-star restaurants. I transitioned from budget travel to savoring exquisite cuisine. Tasting Joël Robuchon’s food for the first time was revelatory; I had never experienced anything like it. We had French restaurants in the U.S., but none could compare to that level of quality. I distinctly remember my first bite at Jamin, Robuchon’s first establishment, and thinking it was beyond human craftsmanship. The technique was astounding.

It’s difficult for younger generations to grasp what American cuisine was like in the ’70s and early ’80s, a time before farmers markets became popular. Visiting Paris and tasting freshly picked vegetables with real flavor was a revelation, something rare back home. Places like Poilâne offered exceptional bread long before the bread revolution in the U.S.; in 1984, you couldn’t find a decent loaf in LA. Being in Paris meant enjoying superb bread and freshly churned butter—experiences that simply didn’t exist here. The cheese, too, was extraordinary; we didn’t have access to quality cheese or foie gras.

Do you believe people can still have transformative dining experiences in Paris today?

I believe it is possible, but the experience has changed. Back in the ’70s and ’80s, it was nearly impossible to have a bad meal in Paris; wherever you went, the food was reliably good. That’s not the case anymore. Now, extensive research is essential because you can easily end up with disappointing meals if you don't prepare. It's truly disheartening to find yourself in Paris and face a series of terrible dining experiences, yet it is still possible to enjoy great food.

Many of Stella’s key experiences in the book, especially regarding dining, could still happen for someone today. These beloved establishments are still operational. Did this aid you in writing the book? Did visiting these places factor into your research?

I’ve been a patron of Robert et Louise since the ’60s, and though the original owner, Robert [Georget], has passed, his daughter Pascal now manages it. The atmosphere remains welcoming and affordable, and they still cook over the fireplace, providing a nostalgic experience of earlier Paris. L’Ami Louis has changed little since the ’80s. Alain Passard appears in the book, although it was before he opened his own restaurant, and visiting Arpège today showcases his remarkable contributions to vegetable cuisine.

Were there any places you wished to include that didn’t align with Stella’s narrative?

I did include Jamin in the manuscript initially, but it didn’t quite fit into Stella’s storyline, so I had to remove it, albeit with reluctance. Robuchon was an extraordinary chef, and I have fond memories and notes from my dining experiences there.

Which restaurant in Paris today transports visitors back in time?

Most likely Robert et Louise and L’Ami Louis. Although L’Ami Louis has become quite pricey, it remains virtually unchanged. The menu has stayed the same. The original chef has passed away, but many of the waitstaff have been there for 50 years.

Paint a picture of your dream Parisian dinner party – where would it be, who would be the guests, living or deceased? What would be on the menu?

I would definitely invite Richard Olney, along with James Beard for his incredible appetite. Mary Frances Fisher would be great to see spar with James. Julia Child would be there, as well as James Baldwin and John Ashbery. Of course, I’d want George Whitman to observe the entire gathering. Ideally, Olney would be cooking in his Belleville apartment, but if we were at a restaurant, I might choose Prunier for its stunning art deco ambiance. The fish is exceptional and the atmosphere luxurious. Some guests would be awed by the restaurant's opulence, while others would relish the chance to indulge in lavish amounts of caviar that they couldn’t normally afford. Mary Frances Fisher adored caviar; I once brought her a small amount I could manage, and she downed it in one bite, exclaiming, “Is that all there is?”

What are the most significant changes you've witnessed in Paris's dining scene over the years?

The changes have been monumental. Back when I first visited Paris in the late '60s, aside from North African Mytouries that emerged post-Algerian Revolution, foreign cuisine was virtually non-existent. Restaurants were strictly French. Now, Paris boasts incredible Japanese, Basque, Chinese, Korean, and a vibrant African culinary scene in the 18th arrondissement. This diversity was absent even in the '80s; the French primarily consumed French food in Paris.

Another significant shift is that people now speak English in restaurants. In the '80s, this was not the case at all. Not speaking French back then was quite a handicap. Haute cuisine establishments had strict etiquette; patrons dressed formally, women often received menus without prices, as it was presumed the man would be paying and revealing the cost was considered impolite. Men were required to wear jackets and ties in upscale venues.

Have you discovered any favorite new restaurants in the city?

I haven't been to Paris in six months, but during my last trip, I enjoyed a charming little spot called Soces. The chef previously worked at Clamato. It's a modest place, but I had a delightful experience there.

Which arrondissement do you prefer for dining?

Nowadays, the 11th arrondissement is likely the place to be. In our inaugural Paris issue of Gourmet, 24 years ago, young chefs expressed their indifference to Michelin stars and their desire to move beyond catering solely to wealthy tourists. They helped establish the 11th as a culinary hub, which remains a vibrant area for dining today.

What are your go-to places for food or cookware shopping?

For cookware, E. Dehillerin is a must-visit; I've never been to Paris without stopping there. When it comes to food shopping, I enjoy exploring all over, but my favorite street is Rue Mouffetarde, the oldest market street in Paris, dating back to the 1600s.

When do you plan to visit Paris next?

This fall. Every year, Nancy Silverton and I host a culinary trip, and this time we’ll be exploring Basque country in both France and Spain, with a stop in Paris first.

Is Robert et Louise a part of your recommendations?

Absolutely! I recently recommended it to a friend who was in Paris for three days and ended up dining there each night.

What other spots are essential for every visit?

Huitrerie Regis is a must for oysters, and I always pop by Androuet to admire the cheese selection. Lately, though, I've been focusing on exploring new places since there are so many fantastic options.

This interview has been edited and condensed for brevity and clarity.Photo credits: Ruth Reichl headshot by Debby Wong/Shutterstock; Deviled eggs by Bistrot des Tournelles; fish and French onion soup by Soces; strawberry and rhubarb tart photos by Joann Pai/Tapisserie; Robert et Louise storefront by Robert et Louise/Getty