The Excitement of an Off-Season Transatlantic Cruise, Choppy Waters and All

In the heart of the Atlantic, Reverend John Hartnett, a retired Episcopal priest from Bethany, Connecticut, seized the moment of relative calm following days of tumultuous seas to take a dip in the outdoor pool aboard Cunard’s 2,705-passenger Queen Mary 2 ocean liner.

The pool was completely empty, as temperatures hovered in the 40s, not accounting for the chill from the sea breeze.

“Outside was a mix of chilly air, warm water, bright sun, a swaying ship, and the gusty wind,” Hartnett, 71, recalls. “It was the highlight of my entire trip.”

Hartnett was among my fellow travelers on a November journey from Southampton, UK, to New York City, where we faced fierce gale-force winds hitting up to 49 knots, all due to a storm that the ship had navigated south to evade.

Hartnett was unfazed. Experiencing the waves was one of the reasons he and his wife, Susan, chose to embark on a round-trip voyage from New York, with a stop in Europe along the way.

“I wanted to feel what it’s like to be out in the ocean,” he explains. “If I wanted an easy journey, I would have flown. I craved the authentic experience of facing the elements and reflecting on what it meant to cross the ocean for centuries.”

The 151,000-ton Queen Mary 2 is the sole passenger cruise ship globally that operates regularly scheduled transatlantic voyages, making the journey between Southampton and Brooklyn in just seven nights.

During summer sailings, the Atlantic can be as serene as a lake, barring any storms, as I have experienced before. November and December sailings attract travelers keen to witness some lively sea conditions. The ship then takes a winter hiatus for its annual multi-month world cruise.

“I’ve always found it fascinating that while the outside can be fierce and tumultuous, inside it’s warm and inviting with a jazz band playing,” shares cruise historian and author Aaron Saunders, who indulged in this crossing as a 40th birthday gift. “The essence of Queen Mary 2 is that it’s engineered to withstand this kind of weather. It can face any elements and keep moving forward.”

The Queen Mary 2, often referred to as QM2, is an impressive vessel—having set the record for the world’s largest passenger ship (a title that has been surpassed multiple times) when it was launched by Queen Elizabeth II in 2004. It features a reinforced steel hull, four stabilizers for a smoother journey, and powerful engines capable of reaching speeds of 28 knots, or 32 miles per hour (the average cruise ship typically sails at about 20 knots, or 23 miles per hour).

As someone prone to seasickness, I felt some apprehension about taking a November transatlantic voyage, while my husband, who would eagerly brave 40-foot waves if given the chance, was thrilled at the thought of a bit of turbulence.

Thanks to prescription motion sickness medication, a Transdermal Scopolamine patch behind my ear, and a dose of Dramamine, I navigated through several stormy days feeling drowsy but never missing a meal.

There are some drawbacks to what the ship’s captain referred to as “boisterous” seas. At times during our journey, the outdoor decks, including the teak promenade—perfect for walking or jogging a mile—were closed off.

Those hitting the expansive dance floor in the ship’s stunningly elegant, high-ceilinged Queens Room ballroom had to be mindful of their footing. Even while slow dancing to Elvis’s “Can’t Help Falling in Love,” performed by a talented St. Lucian dance band in the G32 nightclub, I found myself gripping my husband tightly and relieved that I hadn’t chosen to wear higher heels.

From time to time, you’d hear the sound of a glass crashing to the floor. At one point, the divider between our stateroom veranda and the neighboring one came loose, banging against our glass door until crew members fixed it.

Hotel director David Shepherd noted that room service saw a significant rise during our cruise, as some of the 2,205 predominantly British, American, and European guests opted to stay in their cabins during the rougher seas. However, for most, the vibrant atmosphere was enticing.

“If you experience bouncy weather, it’s a bonus,” Shepherd explains. “And people love sitting by the windows, watching the waves crash against the ship.”

Is seven days at sea really sufficient?

A common question I receive from friends when I mention my transatlantic voyage on the QM2, which I’ve experienced twice in more tranquil waters, is, “What is there to do for an entire week at sea?”

My response: “What isn’t there to do?”

The daily schedule is brimming with options. On one particular day, I noted 60 activities available before 7 p.m., not counting beauty and wellness workshops, massages, and various treatments at the spa, where a heated thalassotherapy pool is a major highlight.

There's intentionally something for everyone on board, catering to a mix of families and a larger segment of passengers primarily aged 55 and older.

Our Veterans Day voyage was held in partnership with the Greatest Generations Foundation, an organization that assists combat veterans in returning to battlefields and memorial sites. Presentations on themes of life, death, and heroism were led by 18 veterans from World War II and the Korean and Vietnam wars. The ship’s Royal Court Theatre was filled to capacity daily as people eagerly listened to their stories.

In addition to the veteran-themed events, the regular daily programming included insights from a marine scientist discussing topics like jaw-hinge fish and bioluminescent creatures; a military historian covering the British defeat of the Zulu Nation; and a forensic medical examiner sharing the true tale of the Elephant Man.

A wide array of classes was available, ranging from ballroom dancing to bridge. Competitions included trivia games, darts contests at the Golden Lion Pub, and blackjack tournaments in the casino. Alternatively, you could spend hours enjoying films like Star Wars Episode IX: The Rise of Skywalker in the theater or Back to the Future in your stateroom.

I brought along a Kindle loaded with books I’ve been wanting to read, but there was also the option to visit the ship’s impressive library at the bow, featuring over 9,000 books.

In the evenings, you can enjoy theatrical productions in the theater, featuring singers and dancers performing Broadway classics, comedic acts, or a diverse lineup of live music, including a folk duo and a harpist. Although the Royal Shakespeare Company, known for its adaptations of Shakespeare plays and acting workshops (where actors perform their favorite sonnets and engage with the audience), does not perform during off-season sailings, they will return in the spring following the world cruise.

The ship's signature entertainment is ballroom dancing, especially highlighted during two gala nights—the Black and White Ball and the Masquerade Ball. Passengers who prefer a more casual atmosphere can opt for the ship's relaxed dining venues and lounges. Those who enjoy dressing up showcase their tuxedos and gowns, with skilled ballroom dancers displaying their waltz, rumba, and cha-cha moves before an audience. My husband and I chose to save our dancing for the nightclub, where we felt less pressure from onlookers.

Each night, as we returned to our stateroom, we often found ourselves pondering where the day (and evening) had disappeared to.

The various service classes

When you book the QM2, you select a class of service that dictates your dining arrangements. Hotel director Shepherd likens it to choosing a seat on a transatlantic flight—whether you prefer coach, premium economy, business class, or first class. “It largely revolves around space,” he explains.

Passengers in entry-level Britannia cabins dine in the ship’s main dining room, a stunning two-deck venue featuring a grand staircase, art deco-inspired decor, and impressive menus that may include dishes like chicken leek terrine or Asian-style tuna tartare, followed by grilled lamb cutlets with rosemary and garlic or rainbow trout amandine for dinner. Breakfast options could range from eggs Benedict to avocado toast or a full English breakfast, while lunch might feature Thai curry or chicken cacciatore. Guests in Britannia Club balcony accommodations enjoy slightly enhanced dining at an exclusive restaurant.

Our Princess Grill accommodations included a spacious stateroom with a sitting area and a veranda, a walk-in closet, and a bathroom with a tub, along with a reserved table in an intimate restaurant exclusive to the 150 Princess Grill guests aboard. Alongside entrees like chateaubriand and excellent vegetarian choices, such as zucchini and sweet potato noodles in a creamy coconut milk herb sauce, we could also request tableside-prepared dishes like Dover sole meunière, rack of lamb, or roast duck à l’orange.

Top-tier Queens Grill guests enjoy opulent suites complete with butler service and dine in a separate restaurant where they can order anything they desire. “We have very few restrictions on board,” says Shepherd. “We maintain a vast list of ingredients reserved specifically for Queens Grill guests, which adds to the exclusivity. If they request fresh lobster, they will receive fresh lobster.”

Both Princess and Queens guests enjoy exclusive access to a private Grills Lounge with a terrace, where you can indulge in afternoon tea or enjoy martinis at night while socializing with other distinguished guests.

The ship maintains a casual dress code during the day and “smart attire” on most evenings, with many Grill guests interpreting this as collared shirts by day and jackets for men at dinner. During one lunch, I felt the gaze of others when I entered the Princess Grill restaurant in more casual leggings.

A floating piece of history

Sailing on the QM2 gives you a sense of being part of a rich tradition of crossings—Cunard’s inaugural transatlantic voyage took place 180 years ago.

During our journey, the ship sailed approximately 46 miles from the final resting place of the Titanic, a poignant moment for reflection if you happened to be awake at 3 a.m.

For some of us, like myself, there’s a deep awareness that our immigrant ancestors crossed the Atlantic in steerage to escape oppression. I woke up early as we approached Brooklyn to catch the first glimpse of the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island, which my ancestors saw over 110 years ago. If this resonates with you, consider booking a cabin on the portside of the ship during westbound voyages, which also offers the benefit of more sunlight on clear days if your room has a window or veranda.

Hartnett, who has made about six crossings on the QM2, says that while on board, he often reflects on the significance of time and place.

“The first time we did this, I expected to see ships every day, but we only spotted them on the first and last day,” he reflects. “I was struck by just how vast the ocean is.”

During the November crossing, he found himself thinking about his father and his father’s contemporaries, who sailed to Iceland in a convoy during World War II.

“Imagine being on a much smaller vessel in far more challenging conditions and severe weather, with the threat of being torpedoed,” he muses. “This journey feels like a pilgrimage in solidarity with them.”