Dinogo Plan-it: Discover how to glide along the Amazon while savoring unforgettable meals in Manaus, Brazil

The enchantment of the Amazon is truly unparalleled.

As the largest rainforest on the planet, it holds a legendary status among explorers and adventurers, despite its reputation for being one of the hottest, wettest, and most challenging places to traverse on Earth.

The stark differences in modern life, cuisine, nature, and culture between the bustling megalopolis of São Paulo, Brazil’s largest city, and Manaus, the Amazon’s biggest urban center—2691km (1672 miles) apart as the macaw flies—are astonishing, especially for two locations within the same vast country. Expect the capital of the Brazilian state of Amazonas to be nothing like your hometown.

This is where its charm lies.

Located at the meeting point of the blackwater Rio Negro—the Amazon's largest left tributary—and the muddy Rio Solimões, which spans 1609km (1000 miles) and is 80km (50 miles) wide, Manaus has boldly established itself in one of nature's most remarkable settings, determined to thrive in a land that, while often harsh, offers a rich array of natural wonders to those who honor its beauty.

Experiencing Manaus is nothing short of extraordinary: you'll encounter unmatched biodiversity and breathtaking natural marvels just outside this fast-paced jungle city, bustling with unique foods, lively markets, and a river-centric lifestyle. With the exception of Belém in the nearby state of Pará, Manaus has no equal. You are right in the heart of it all – and that’s exactly the allure.

Step 1: Choose the best time of year for your visit

Do you prefer more wildlife sightings in the dry season, or deeper exploration during the wet months?

The Amazon experiences two distinct seasons—wet (high water) and dry (low water)—each offering unique pros and cons that every jungle visitor should consider. The dry season from July to December provides lower river levels and enhanced wildlife spotting opportunities from riverboat tours. Conversely, the wet season from January to May is aptly named, bringing increased rainfall and humidity, while higher water levels enable better access to tributaries via alternative transport like canoes.

June is an ideal time: water levels remain elevated, the landscape is lush from the rainy season, but rainfall begins to taper off as it shifts into drier months. While the wet season does attract more mosquitoes (one of the Amazon's biggest nuisances), the overall difference is minimal, as they persist year-round. Additionally, prices tend to rise during the Brazilian summer (December to February), making off-peak months a great opportunity for savings.

Step 2: Address your visa requirements for Brazil

Stay informed about constantly changing regulations.

While travelers from Australia, Canada, and the USA have enjoyed visa-free access for tourism visits of up to 90 days for several years, Brazil's visa regulations are among the most fluid globally due to changing political landscapes and reciprocity agreements. For instance, starting January 2024, nationals from these countries will once again require a visa (citizens from the UK, New Zealand, Japan, South Africa, and the EU remain visa-exempt as of now). It's advisable to verify and apply well ahead of your intended travel dates through the website of Brazil’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs or a certified visa service, as you'll need to provide your flight information for your application.

Step 3: Choose your preferred level of comfort

A rustic wooden ferry or a lavish cruiser?

The Amazon remains one of the last great frontiers for passenger river travel, making a journey through the jungle by riverboat a must for adventurous spirits. Boats for both travel and leisure regularly depart from Manaus, varying widely in quality and comfort. Budget motor yachts and traditional passenger ferries create the jungle’s river network, ferrying both locals and visitors to settlements along the waterways. In addition, more luxurious river cruises cater specifically to tourists in the region.

Are you seeking a refined experience or ready to embrace the rugged side? The latter involves setting up a hammock on the open deck of a wooden ferry with up to 300 fellow adventurers, while luxurious cruises and floating resorts provide a more sophisticated atmosphere. Knowing your travel style is essential as you plan your Amazon adventure.

Step 4: Explore excursion options from Manaus and secure your bookings as early as possible

Adventure in the Amazon awaits you – with a little foresight.

Since wildlife and untouched nature are largely absent from the immediate surroundings of Manaus, most visitors will be venturing out to explore further into the jungle. That said, there are activities within the city—such as the remarkable Teatro Amazonas, a stunning belle-époque theater built during the rubber boom—that merit attention. However, in most instances, Manaus serves as a (captivating) gateway. Given the popularity of the Amazon, always try to book excursions and jungle lodges as far in advance as you can. Here are some of the top excursions available from Manaus.

Encontro das Águas

The city’s stunning meeting of the waters—where two rivers converge but refuse to blend—is the most popular and accessible excursion from Manaus, located just east of the city center, making it ideal for a quick visit. The contrasting Rio Negro and Solimões collide just off Manaus’s shoreline, maintaining their distinct characteristics for approximately 6km (4 miles). This striking natural spectacle is a must-see and is typically included in any day trip or journey to river lodges.

Rio Urubu

One of the nearest pristine environments to the city, the intact ecosystem of Rio Urubu offers abundant wildlife viewing opportunities within its lush flooded forests, just a two-hour drive from Manaus. Highlights include jungle hikes, visits to local communities, overnight camping in the forest, and a few notable jungle lodges. Its proximity to Manaus makes it an excellent choice for visitors with limited time.

Juma River

Located about 100km (62 miles) and three hours by boat southeast of Manaus, the Juma River flows through a 17,000+-acre preserve that, despite encroaching modernity, remains a vibrant ecosystem and a hotspot for preserved biodiversity. The river’s tranquil waters often evoke a lake-like serenity, making it a popular destination with easy access from Manaus. Several jungle lodges operate here, with the top-rated Juma Lodge highly recommended for its sustainable design and eco-friendly approach (think photovoltaic solar energy and 90% local community staff).

The reserves and parks of the Rio Negro basin

As the largest blackwater river in the world, the Rio Negro serves as the gateway to deeper exploration of the Amazon and is home to several prominent national parks. Parque Nacional de Anavilhanas, located a half-day boat ride northwest of Manaus, features around 400 river islands (at high water, a haunting sunken forest effect creates stunning photographic opportunities) and a network of jungle waterways that extends approximately 130km (81 miles). Further west lies Parque Nacional do Jaú, Brazil's second-largest national park, spanning 23,000 sq km (8880 sq miles) and representing one of the world's largest expanses of preserved tropical rainforest. Lastly, Reserva Extrativista Baixo Rio Branco-Jauaperi, located 500km (311 miles) upstream from Manaus, requires more effort and time to access, but those who venture there are richly rewarded with some of the best wildlife viewing the Amazon has to offer.

Step 5: Pack wisely for your adventure

Don’t rely on being able to buy anything you forget.

This may seem obvious, but it’s vital to remember that a quick trip to a nearby shopping mall isn’t an option. If you’re choosing the rustic riverboat experience, you’ll need to pack a variety of supplies: a hammock, rope, lightweight bedsheet, dry snacks, a couple of good books, extra toilet paper, a mosquito net, familiar medications, antibacterial Marseille soap, a thin cable and lock (to secure your bag to one of the boat’s center poles), and more. (At jungle lodges, some of these essentials are usually available.) Regardless of your choice of adventure, you’ll also want plenty of long, breathable, waterproof clothing, waterproof shoes or boots, a raincoat or parka, sunscreen, a hat, binoculars, a water bottle with a filter, and effective mosquito repellent (the natural, organic types won't suffice here). While malaria risk is lower in Manaus and the lower Amazon basin, consult your doctor about prophylactic medications before making any final decisions.

Step 6: Strategize your meals in Manaus

Indulge in intriguing local flavors.

The Amazon is home to some of Brazil’s finest and most fascinating restaurants. Be sure to make a reservation at Banzeiro, a legendary Amazonian dining establishment where Chef Felipe Schaedler transforms the jungle’s offerings into surprising and distinctive dishes, including the unforgettable crispy tambaqui ribs and a variety of locally inspired delights. At Biatüwi, Brazil’s first Indigenous-run restaurant, Sateré-Mawé Chef Clarinda Ramos highlights the culinary treasures of local communities in the Amazon basin. And don’t overlook the city’s signature sandwich, the x-caboquinho, made with curd cheese, fried pacovã banana, and tucumã shavings on French bread.

If I could relive it all…

I’ve experienced the Amazon in various ways: from rustic passenger boats to midrange cruises and several luxurious jungle lodges. Each option provides a unique and remarkable experience, though there are a few caveats. Spending several days gazing into the forest canopy from a riverboat can get monotonous—you won’t see as much wildlife as you’d expect (you might catch a glimpse of pink dolphins if you’re fortunate, but most animals remain hidden deeper in the jungle). Moreover, there’s not much to do besides enjoy a drink and share travel stories. Excursions from river lodges tend to be more rewarding, featuring knowledgeable guides, more comfortable accommodations, better cuisine, and a potential escape from mosquitoes.