Dinogo’s Guide to Getaria: The Tiny Spanish Haven for Grilled Fish

Everyone heads to the Basque Country for its culinary delights. This northern Spanish region, proudly calling itself a “culinary nation,” is famous for its pintxos in Bilbao’s Casco Viejo and the gastronomic havens in picturesque San Sebastián, home to the highest number of Michelin stars globally. Recently, Axpe, a charming village nestled in the mountains, has emerged as a foodie destination thanks to chef Victor Arguinzoniz’s acclaimed restaurant, Asador Etxebarri. However, many overlook the coastal gem of Getaria, where the ultimate culinary treat is simply grilled seafood paired with an affordable bottle of wine. Their loss.

Situated perfectly between San Sebastián and Bilbao, Getaria boasts an ideal location along the Urola Coast, where currents throughout the year refresh the waters, adjusting temperature and salinity, thus fostering a rich variety of fish and shellfish. Daily, fishing boats bring in the freshest catch to the port, where workers transport the fish just a short distance to local asadores—traditional, family-run seafood Mytouries by the water. There, they are placed on smoking parrillas (grills) and quickly served to eager diners, ideally alongside a bottle of txakoli, the region’s dry white wine.

Despite its population of fewer than 3,000, this fishing village attracts savvy visitors each year in search of perfectly grilled turbot, monkfish, sardines, and lobsters—all served simply without fuss.

What exactly are parrillas?

Long before tourists flocked to the area, fishermen from Getaria were grilling fish on charcoal barbecues set up right on their boats. 'Onboard, the grill was essential. It was a straightforward and minimalist cooking method, but these fishermen became skilled at preparing the fish they caught,' explains historian Xabier Alberdi, director of the San Sebastián Naval Museum.

In the 1940s, these grills made their way ashore. After lengthy fishing trips, sailors returned to Getaria with their catches. Often, they would stop at bodegones (local taverns) for wine and camaraderie. Although these establishments primarily served drinks, many owners constructed parrillas outside so the sailors could cook their fish, allowing them to linger and enjoy more wine. 'As this practice grew, passersby began to desire meals at these spots, leading to the emergence of the first asadores in the city,' shares Maialen Gereka, whose grandfather opened el Txoko, Getaria’s first asador, in 1953. Initially, these were just bars with grills, she notes, and lacked plates or cutlery—bread was their only utensil.

Some Mytouries have transitioned their grilling indoors, but the traditional parrillas remain visible, often built into the exterior walls—an enduring part of Getaria’s culinary identity. 'Today, we can say that the parrilla, as we know it, has become more ornamental. Yet, it carries a rich history that we strive to preserve,' Gereka adds.

Parrilleros spend years perfecting their skills. 'It represents the pinnacle of achievement in a restaurant here, and it commands great respect,' shares Gorka Lazkano, a third-generation operator of Astillero, one of the most renowned local asadores. 'It's crucial to assess the size and fat content of a fish before placing it on the grill, and the same fish can vary greatly across seasons. Just a few seconds too long over the coals can alter everything,' he adds.

This skill is also fading, as fewer young people show interest in the trade. 'Decades ago, it was common for the children of founders to carry on the family legacy. Nowadays, it's become quite challenging to persuade grandchildren and great-grandchildren to remain involved,' notes Aitor Arregui of Elkano, one of the area’s most esteemed restaurants. In response to this cultural decline, in 2019, asador owners, scholars, fishermen, and community leaders established the Maritime Culinary Association of Getaria, a multidisciplinary organization aimed at providing training for young chefs and fostering culinary traditions. Although asadores have transformed from simple bars with DIY grills, the locals continue to uphold the fishing and cooking methods developed at places like Txoko decades ago. It’s this rich culture that attracts tourists as much as the food itself.

Above, fish heads at Elkano. On the left, a statue of Juan Sebastián Elkano. On the right, preparing a grill basket at Iribar.

Essential tips before your visit

Juan Sebastián Elkano: The most renowned figure from Getaria, Elkano is celebrated as the first sailor to circumnavigate the globe and is regarded as a patron of the local parrilla tradition. He relied on grilled seafood during his oceanic voyages and left behind two grills in his will. The town's famous restaurant, Elkano, bears his name.

Txakoli: The hills surrounding Getaria are adorned with vast vineyards of Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarrabi Beltza grapes, which are used to craft refreshing txakoli. This dry, sparkling white wine is highly acidic and infused with coastal breezes, making it an ideal complement to grilled fish.

Kokotxas: This term refers to the tender flesh around a fish's throat, including the gelatinous cheeks. It's a beloved delicacy among locals, prepared in various ways: grilled over embers, confit, or served with pil pil, a sauce made from emulsified olive oil, garlic, and fish juices.

Fish-shaped grilling baskets: Asadores commonly utilize wire baskets designed like fish to flip them on the grill, allowing the parrillero to achieve optimal cooking on both sides without pressing the meat against the metal. These baskets come in various shapes and sizes tailored for different fish species, including a popular version for rodaballo (turbot).

Dining options

Elkano

Elkano is the most renowned restaurant in Getaria, celebrated for its numerous awards, including a Michelin star and a place on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Following the passing of his father, innovative entrepreneur Pedro Arregui, Aitor Arregui has taken the helm of the family business, teaching patrons to appreciate fish as they would meat. 'We often perceive fish as a singular entity, which is incorrect,' he explains. His menu categorizes fish into groups — oily fish, whitefish, rockfish, and flatfish — while also emphasizing various cuts. When serving turbot, grilled over charcoal at the table, he separates the different sections to highlight their unique textures and flavors: the fatty back, succulent filets, and gelatinous cheeks. He encourages diners to enjoy the tail with their hands, “like a chicken wing.” In addition to his mother’s stewed squid and kokotxas, Arregui has a penchant for jelly-like fish heads; the menu features mackerel heads and, if you’re fortunate, lobster tomalley (the rich, gooey part of the lobster’s digestive system).

Txoko Getaria

Established in 1953, this pioneering asador has become a cornerstone of the culinary landscape in Getaria. Gereka operates the restaurant alongside her husband, Mexican chef Enrique Fleischmann. The core of their menu remains unchanged: the star attraction is the daily catch grilled over embers, featuring 100% wild fish. Starters highlight piquillo peppers filled with seafood and parsley pesto, while Fleischmann introduces modern flair with dishes like slow-cooked octopus with potato and paprika, and corn toast topped with grilled seafood salpicón. 'To offer more than just excellent food, we must embrace our deep sea-to-table philosophy and highlight the quality of our local ingredients,' says Gereka.

Kaia Kaipe

Since 1962, this family-owned establishment has been delighting diners with exceptional seafood cooked on a custom grill set into the restaurant's exterior, complete with outdoor terrace seating. Most patrons opt to sit outside, though there is a nautical-themed dining room for inclement weather. Over the years, Igor Arregi (cousin of Elkano’s Aitor Arregui) has curated one of Spain’s most impressive wine lists, boasting over 4,000 bottles, including rare vintages. Every meal kicks off with txakoli, featuring more than 20 varieties of this local favorite. The menu offers fresh oysters, asparagus, crayfish, lobster, clams, and whole grilled fish for two, either turbot or sea bream. During certain months, they also feature wild sole.

Iribar

After gaining experience in haute cuisine across Spain, Pili Manterola returned to manage her parents’ asador following her father’s passing, making her one of the few women in Spain to lead a parrilla. The restaurant features tables beneath exposed wooden beams and nets suspended from the ceiling, creating a cozy, boat-like dining atmosphere. Manterola honors traditional parrilla cooking with dishes like hake, sole, and rodaballo, while also incorporating her own innovative vegetable-focused recipes, such as crab-stuffed asparagus, and sophisticated techniques like oxtail and mushroom mille-feuilles.

Astillero

This asador is situated on the first floor of a historic mansion overlooking Getaria’s fishing port, offering a view of vibrant fishing boats bobbing in the bay. The open kitchen serves as the focal point of the rustic dining area, allowing patrons to observe the parrilleros grilling whole monkfish, sea bream, and sole. The service is warm and attentive, reminiscent of a family Sunday lunch at the Lazkanos' home. The kokotxas, drenched in oil, chili, and garlic, are particularly exquisite.

Balearri

As one of the newer asadores, Balearri is situated slightly away from the others on Markobe Beach, where it began over twenty years ago as a beach bar specializing in grilled sardines, mackerel, and bonito. After losing its seating area to the sea three times, it underwent a renovation in 2016, resulting in a metallic structure with a wooden balcony surrounded by windows that offer breathtaking sea views. Fresh fish like sea bream and red mullet arrive daily from nearby fishing boats and go directly to the parrilla. The grill also accommodates seasonal mushrooms, octopus, kokotxas, and select meat cuts. The extensive range of txakoli labels and friendly, professional service from the Iribar family enhance the experience.

Where to stay

Iturregi

Nestled in the picturesque hills just outside the town, this charming farmhouse is only a five-minute drive from the city center. The luxurious hotel exudes a country villa vibe, featuring eight spacious and comfortable rooms, an infinity pool, and txakoli vineyards encircling the property. Guests can unwind on the terrace with a glass of wine while enjoying views of Mount San Anton and its scenic lighthouse. Rates begin at $280 per night.

Saiaz

Staying at this 15th-century Gothic building in the historic heart of town feels like stepping back in time. The ambiance is warm and inviting, with fireplaces, carpets, wooden floors, thick stone walls, and a variety of antiques enhancing the cozy decor. Some modern rooms feature terraces with views of the Bay of Biscay. Saiaz is conveniently located near the city’s renowned asadores and just a 10-minute stroll from Gaztetape Beach. Rates start at $100 per night.

LUR

LUR offers stylish studios designed for practicality and comfort, ideal for up to four guests. These apartments, available for nightly rental, feature a minimalist aesthetic with white walls and light wood furnishings. While the design is simple, the property provides all essential amenities and boasts a prime downtown location within walking distance of major attractions. Each apartment also includes a modern kitchen, perfect for those inspired to prepare a seafood feast after visiting an asador. Rates start at $190 per night.

Rafael Tonon is a journalist and food writer living between Brazil and Portugal. He is the author of the book The Food Revolutions.