Discover Malta: A Five-Day Mediterranean Escape
Seeking a dose of sea and spring sunshine, Kerry Walker from Dinogo Planet journeyed to the enchanting islands of Malta and Gozo, falling in love with their charm. Here, she highlights her favorite moments from the trip.
With its unique history, cinematic cities crafted by the Knights of St John, breathtaking coastlines, and a distinctive cuisine that fuses Italian and Middle Eastern flavors, I fell head over heels for Malta during my first visit 15 years ago—and I’ve yearned to return ever since. On this adventure, I even managed a quick jaunt to neighboring Gozo.
If you’re wondering when is the ideal time to visit Malta, I recommend spring—wildflowers are in bloom, beaches are serene, accommodation rates are low, crowds are minimal, and temperatures are around 20°C (68°F). While the sea may be a bit brisk (unless you enjoy cold water), the pleasant days are perfect for various activities, including coastal hikes, runs, horse riding, kayaking, and simply relaxing in the picturesque piazzas of the golden-stoned cities.
Kerry's hotel was situated near the vibrant St George's Bay. Getty ImagesWhere did you stay? What was the atmosphere like?
The Radisson Blu Resort in St Julian’s offers elegantly designed rooms in coastal blues and whites, all with stunning views of the Mediterranean. It's a convenient base for exploring the island, just a 10-minute stroll from St George’s Bay, where sandy beaches and lively nightlife await, and a 20-minute drive from Valletta.
The hotel features several pools, a gym, a small spa, and is located right by the Pembroke Nature Reserve—ideal for morning jogs. The breakfast buffet stood out, with freshly made pancakes and omelets, and I enjoyed a delicious risotto at the hotel’s Le Bistro restaurant, which focuses on locally sourced ingredients.
Kerry's morning strolls offered her a glimpse of Valletta awakening. Kerry Walker for Dinogo PlanetWhat’s the best way to kick off your day in Malta?
A morning jog. There’s something magical about rising early to witness the pink hues of sunrise and slipping into your running gear as the first light dances across the coast. At this hour, the only sound is the soft lapping of waves. My favorite route is the Pembroke Nature Reserve in St Julian’s, where the rocky shoreline bursts with fragrant wildflowers.
Alternatively, you’ll find me wandering through Valletta, a stunning ochre-hued city adorned with domes, Renaissance palaces, piazzas, and cobbled streets that roll down to the sea in a San Francisco-style descent. I enjoy passing through Renzo Piano’s City Gate and meandering past townhouses adorned with gallariji, intricate wooden balconies, as the city shakes off its slumber and the aroma of brewing coffee fills the air.
I might stop for a freshly brewed cup at the trendy Lot 61, followed by warm pastizzi—flaky pastries filled with ricotta or minced beef—at the upscale Caffe Cordina, which has been serving since 1837. It’s conveniently located right in the square across from the opulent Grandmaster’s Palace, once the headquarters of the Knights of St John.
The serene, honey-colored streets of Mdina. Kerry WalkerWhat’s a must-see destination in Malta?
It has to be Mdina. Perched on a hilltop in the center of the island, this fortified medieval town feels like a movie set. It’s had its share of fame: Mdina Gate, complete with its stone bridge over the old city moat, and Mesquita Square, dominated by the baroque St Paul's Cathedral, both featured in Game of Thrones Season 1. However, my true delight lies in exploring its winding alleys, passing charming courtyard cafés and honey-toned palaces.
The painterly light in these streets turns everyone into a photographer. You can uncover the island’s rich history at the Domus Romana villa, home to Roman mosaics and marble statues, and wander through the gardens that line the formidable bastions erected by the Knights of St John. Don’t miss the chance to have lunch in the beautiful inner courtyard of The Medina, a 500-year-old Norman residence transformed into a mezze-style eatery. From stuffed vine leaves to local sweet red prawn carpaccio and slow-cooked confit pork belly, everything is exquisite.
Dining at Gracy's Valletta, an elegant supper club featuring a terrace bar. Kerry Walker for Dinogo PlanetWhat’s the best place for dinner in Malta?
OKA’s at the Villa in Balluta Bay truly captures romance with its rich history, exquisite food, and a touch of glamour. This beautifully transformed 19th-century palazzo boasts a terrace overlooking the bay, where you can enjoy a signature martini (blood-orange gin, amaretto honey, peach juice, and smoke bubble) before indulging in dinner. The menu offers a refreshing Mediterranean flair with hints of the Middle East, featuring dishes like labneh with crispy lamb, chili oil, and warm pitta, as well as octopus tagliatelle with preserved lemon and herbs.
For a special occasion, secure a table at Gracy’s in Valletta, a 17th-century palazzo reimagined as a chic supper club with a terrace bar overlooking the city rooftops. Tom Peters (formerly sous chef at three-Michelin-starred Maaemo in Oslo) is in charge of the kitchen, bringing a contemporary British twist to Maltese cuisine with dishes like turbot-and-scallop Wellington served with baby leek and champagne beurre-blanc.
Exploring the sights of Golden Bay through horseback riding and buggy tours. Kerry Walker for Dinogo PlanetWhat’s one place in Malta you want people to discover?
Golden Bay. The island’s rugged northeast coast proves that Malta has beautiful beaches. Here, you’ll find Golden Bay and even more stunning, Riviera Beach, a magnificent stretch of sand bordered by cliffs. When I visited in spring, the coast was wonderfully tranquil. If lounging on the beach isn't your style, you can glide along the cliffs on a Segway or enjoy a ride at Golden Bay Horse Riding. I experienced both and preferred the latter, feeling at ease as we trotted along the cliffs and through meadows dotted with poppies.
For a thrilling encounter with Malta’s history, embark on a self-guided electric buggy tour with Rolling Geeks. These tours explore the Three Cities of Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua, which have been inhabited since Phoenician times, offering intriguing glimpses of daily life in their narrow alleys and plazas. Don’t miss the chance to stop at the bastion-top Gardjola Gardens in Senglea for breathtaking views of Valletta’s Grand Harbour.
Finding peace away from the crowds at Tal Mixta Cave, Gozo. Kerry WalkerHow can you find solitude amidst the crowds?
Head to Gozo. Just a half-hour ferry ride from Malta, this smaller, greener, and quieter island offers a charming glimpse of the Mediterranean before mass tourism takes over. The World Heritage Ġgantija Temples, which predate Egypt’s pyramids, are a remarkable sight and the island’s main attraction, but to avoid the throngs, visit during the off-season. The same goes for Ċittadella, a stunning hilltop citadel that once served as the acropolis of the Punic-Roman city of Gaulos.
Beyond its history, the island dazzles with natural beauty: the rugged, wave-lashed coast of Dwejra Bay is breathtaking, even on a blustery, overcast day, featuring the cliff-encircled Inland Sea, Fungus Rock (a towering 60m limestone pillar), and a shoreline dotted with fossils of sand dollar sea urchins.
Or hike up to Tal-Mixta Cave, perched above the sweeping red-gold sands of Ramla Bay. Given the island's compact size, you can explore quite a bit on foot or by bike, but if you're looking to venture further, Gozo's fleet of electric tuk-tuks offers informative guided tours.
Alfred and Mary Attard at their salt workshop. Kerry WalkerWhat’s one item you should bring back from Malta?
Ġbejna cheese. Malta’s distinctive rounds of handmade sheep and goat’s cheese are well-known for good reason. When purchased fresh, it's sweet and creamy, with a texture reminiscent of panna cotta, but the sharp, tangy, air-dried, wine-pickled variety is better for traveling. In Gozo, you can find it at Ta’ Rikardu, located in a backstreet behind the baroque cathedral in Ċittadella. While you're there, don’t forget to grab a bottle of the prickly pear liqueur produced on their farm as well.
If time permits, make sure to visit Xwejni Bay on Gozo’s northern coast, where a patchwork of salt pans meets a small rock-cut cave by the sea. Here, Alfred Attard is one of the last two individuals on the island who hand-harvest sea salt using ancient techniques. A bag of his exceptionally pure salt makes for a wonderful gift.
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