Discover Serenity: 5 Days in Caribe Sur, Costa Rica

Caribe Sur, situated at the southernmost tip of Costa Rica’s Caribbean coastline, is one of my top dream destinations. It embodies the life I envisioned as a teenager, filled with surfing, sunshine, and cycling.

This region begins at Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (the lively spot) and extends to Manzanillo. Between these points, you’ll find a collection of breathtaking, hidden beaches ideal for strolling, hiking, and leisurely exploring.

The culture here feels uniquely distinct from the rest of Costa Rica – while the pura vida lifestyle and laid-back tico time are alive and well (my absolute favorite!), there’s a rich Indigenous heritage and vibrant Afro-Caribbean influence. Although it may not be the easiest place to reach, if you seek adventure paired with pura vida, this is your destination.

Here’s the beauty: you have options. You can spend your entire trip lounging on your bungalow's deck, gazing into the rainforest and befriending monkeys, or you can plunge straight into exhilarating adventures.

Put on your flip-flops and swimsuit, and jump on this banana bike – we're off to the jungle!

Let’s get down to the details:

Airport to fly into: You should book your flight to Puerto Limón. While you can fly into San Jose, the drive is long and quite challenging. Limón is just an hour away from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

Getting from the airport: You can either rent a car or arrange a shuttle. The most economical choice is the bus, which takes about two hours, while a shuttle or car ride will take around 50 minutes. If you're staying at Hotel Aguas Claras (more details below), they can handle your transportation for you.

Local transportation: Renting a car is convenient, but it's not essential here. While attractions are spread out, there are plenty of taxis available, and biking is by far the most enjoyable way to explore.

Accommodation: Personally, I’m indifferent about being right on the beach – the jungle is just as captivating. I prefer vacation rentals near Playa Chiquita or Punta Uva, both of which make excellent bases. However, if you prefer a hotel, consider booking at Hotel Aguas Claras. This stunning collection of beach bungalows is run by longtime resident and artist Elizabeth Steinworth. As she describes it, this is a haven for artists, doers, and tinkerers. Designed with environmental consideration, it feels as though it belongs to nature, and you'll find Playa Chiquita just a short walk away.

Best time to visit: April marks the prime nesting season for green turtles, and it's an experience you absolutely shouldn't miss. If surfing is your passion, the best waves come between December and March.

Day 1

Arrival: I typically arrive in the afternoon, take a moment to breathe deeply, and remind myself that I’m on tico time now. Sometimes I head directly to the beach for a refreshing swim and a brief stroll, but most often, I prefer to relax on the deck and soak in the surroundings – the spider monkeys often swing by in the afternoon, followed by the howlers a bit later. The first time I heard a howler monkey, I thought I was facing a mythical beast, but their roar is much louder than their size. They enjoy tossing things from the trees, so keep an eye out!

Happy Hour: The DaLime Beach Club at Hotel Aguas Claras is the ideal spot for happy hour before closing at 5 PM – the cocktails are exquisite, and my personal favorite is the Hibiscus tonic (I’m a fan of mocktails). They often play reggae music, perfect for getting into the relaxed atmosphere.

Dinner: When hunger strikes, I make my way to Papaya, the restaurant located at Hotel Aguas Claras. First, let’s discuss the ambiance. The bright pinks and oranges against the natural wood – did they draw inspiration from my dreams? Next, the food. It's local, organic, and healthy, aligning perfectly with what I cherish about visiting Caribe Sur. The menu changes frequently, and I’m always pleased with my choices.

Day 2

Morning: As a breakfast enthusiast, I plan to visit Gypsea Cafe in Playa Chiquita since we have a relaxed day ahead. Their coffee is fantastic, and the benedicts are absolutely indulgent.

Spend the day: I prefer to dedicate at least one day to exploring the beaches stretching from Playa Chiquita to Punta Uva. There are numerous secluded coves along the way, where I like to pause and unwind. I’ll swim and lounge under a palm tree before moving on to the next spot. I pack a water bottle and a quick-dry towel in my backpack, ready for adventure.

Dinner: After a leisurely brunch and no lunch, I treat myself to an early dinner at Selvin’s, the premier Caribbean eatery in the area. I often opt for something shrimp-based, but the Chicken Caribeňo is a constant craving whenever I’m away from Caribe Sur.

After dark: Here’s a highlight of the trip. Before you arrive, make sure to book a turtle-watching tour in Gandoca. The Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo runs from just south of Playa Chiquita in Manzanillo to the Panama border, serving as a sanctuary for green sea turtles, green macaws, jaguars, and other amazing wildlife. A van will pick you up in the early evening, with a 45-minute drive around the refuge to the beach in Gandoca. (By the way, Gandoca is pleasantly untouched by tourism and deserves a daytime visit.) But for now, here’s what you need to keep in mind.

• Dress in long sleeves, long pants, socks, and shoes to stay fully covered and protect yourself from insects. Dark clothing is preferred.

• Flashlights are not allowed unless they have a red light; your guide will provide one.

• No cameras are permitted. This is a moment to savor and remember.

A calm, meditative sensation washes over me as I witness a turtle laying her eggs – her slow, deliberate process synchronizes with my breath. It’s an incredibly intimate experience, rare in the wild. The entire process can take up to three hours, and words can’t capture the thrill you’ll feel on the drive back to the hotel.

Day 3

Morning: After recovering from an unforgettable night, I hop on a banana bike and head to Playa Cocles for the day. My first stop is Caribeans Chocolate and Coffee for, you guessed it, some delicious chocolate and coffee before I settle onto the beach.

Spend the day: The waves here are perfect for novice surfers, and even though I’ve been trying to surf for what feels like ages, I’m still quite the beginner. You can rent boards and schedule lessons here too. I’ll likely grab lunch at Sage, the beachfront eatery at Playa Beachfront Hostel, which is conveniently close, allowing me to stroll in barefoot and in my swimsuit to enjoy some Caribbean rice and beans while I relax for the afternoon.

Dinner: After a refreshing shower and a quick change into a light sundress, it’s dinner time at El Refugio. I absolutely adore indulging in beautiful dishes under the stars in the garden of this steakhouse, owned by a lovely husband-and-wife team from Argentina.

Day 4

Morning: Since I typically stay in a rental home, I’ll have a light breakfast, either some fresh fruit from the farm stand or a quick dish of rice and eggs. If you’re at a hotel, opt for something light from their restaurant before grabbing a banana bike for an easy 4-mile ride to Manzanillo.

Spend the day: Go diving for lobsters! You can pre-arrange this with local chef Andy Cook Campbell, who owns the Cool & Calm Cafe in Manzanillo. He'll take you out on his boat, assist you in free diving for lobsters, and then bring you to a hidden beach to savor your catch. If you're looking for more budget-friendly options, consider kayaking in the protected coastal waters, or my personal favorite, hiking the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo – the scenic coastal trail spans about miles, immersing you in the rainforest on one side and the ocean on the other. Don’t forget to squeeze in a quick swim at Tom’s Bay before heading back to Manzanillo.

Afternoon: If I haven’t arranged a lobster tour with Andy, I’ll enjoy a meal at his Cool & Calm Cafe, an open-air, rasta-inspired eatery located right at the entrance of Manzanillo.

Later: If you’re like me and love to unwind with a good book, grab a light dinner at Arrecife, which sits right on the beach in Punta Uva. Relish your last evening while soaking in the tranquil jungle sounds. But if you’re in the mood for some lively beats, make your way to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, where Jonny’s Place and Hot Rocks are both incredibly popular and a blast.

Day 5

Wake up. Savor one last plate of fresh fruit paired with excellent coffee, and take another dip in the ocean. But now, it’s time to bid farewell and return to reality. Until we meet again, Caribe Sur.

Continue planning your adventure in Costa Rica:

Breathe in the ocean air at Costa Rica's 8 best beaches Your kids will love these family-friendly activities Discover everything you need to know before exploring the land of pura vida Keep your finances in check with these budget-friendly tips