Discover Utah's stunning red rock parks, away from the crowds

While soaking in the hot tub on my cabin's deck at Red Cliffs Lodge near Moab, Utah, I watched the Colorado River flow by, just a stone's throw from my feet. Then it struck me that if I could scale the towering rust-red cliffs, I'd find myself in the renowned Arches National Park.

Though the park was only a few miles away, I envisioned the iconic sandstone formations like Delicate Arch — so well-known it graces Utah's license plates. However, I had no intention of visiting Arches; I prefer to experience nature's splendor away from the throngs of people.

Gaining entry to Arches National Park requires a timed reservation made months ahead, and a long queue of cars continuously winds its way toward the entrance. This solidified my decision to explore other trails. After all, the natural forces of earth, wind, water, and ice that shaped this sandstone landscape extend well beyond the most famous parks.

Instead of venturing to Arches, I hiked to the base of a sandstone arch just as impressive and delicate as its more famous counterparts. Sitting beneath its graceful curve, framed by the deep blue sky, I enjoyed the solitude, with no one else around ... or in my photographs.

Along the way, I paused to touch dinosaur tracks and marveled at vast panels of 2,000-year-old petroglyphs, so intricate that archaeologists are still deciphering their meanings. I also enjoyed hiking in solitude among dense clusters of rock spires that are as otherworldly as those that attract crowds to the famous Bryce Canyon, just a half-day's drive away.

During our adventure, we explored candy-striped slot canyons, tackled slick rock challenges on mountain bikes, swam in hidden waterfalls, and captured hundreds of photos — all without standing in line with other tourists.

Utah is home to the highest number of International Dark Sky Places in any one state. If you check an astronomer’s map of ambient light across the country, you’ll notice that most of Utah is enveloped in the coveted darkness that stargazers crave. To make the most of it, choose accommodations away from city lights and pay attention to the moon's phases; your stargazing will be optimal on nights with little or no moonlight.

Here’s a guide to seven national and state parks, along with government-managed lands, where you can discover echoing chasms, sculpted towers, and knobby hoodoos in breathtaking landscapes. Four of these parks have been designated as International Dark Sky parks, while the others remain just as distant from city lights. You can embark on a road trip between parks and camp within them, or simplify your travels by using Moab as your base, as most of these parks are a day trip away from the city.

Dead Horse Point State Park

Situated conveniently on a side spur off Highway 313, en route to the main entrance of Canyonlands National Park, Dead Horse Point State Park offers some of the most breathtaking canyon vistas from a narrow peninsula that overlooks a stretch of the Colorado River.

For a view into the canyon's depths, nearly 2,000 feet below, take the short, paved Dead Horse Point Trail that leads from the visitor center to the overlook. You can also extend your hike on either the east or west loop trails, or combine them for a 4.5-mile loop featuring uninterrupted views.

A 1.5-mile offshoot from the west loop trail leads to Bighorn Overlook, which provides equally stunning views as those from Dead Horse Point, and often without the crowds. Mountain bikers and adventurous hikers appreciate the park's Intrepid Trail System, a 16-mile network with three potential loop routes, including the popular 7.9-mile Big Chief trail.

Canyonlands National Park

Spanning 527 square miles, Canyonlands National Park is one of the largest national parks in the continental U.S., consisting of three distinct sections, each reachable from different directions.

Island in the Sky, the section nearest to Moab, attracts the majority of park visitors who come to admire Mesa Arch and traverse the canyon's rim along a 34-mile scenic route lined with viewpoints.

We opted to delve into the canyon's heart within the Needles District, accessible from the park's eastern entrance. Hiking through rocks contorted into fantastical shapes, we found ourselves gazing in awe at tangerine-striped spires, white domes, dark crevices, and mushroom-like formations.

The Needles District visitor center provides excellent maps, ranger-led talks, and tips for hiking and sightseeing. Follow the Needles Scenic Drive to its end at the Big Spring Canyon Overlook for impressive views, with even better vistas available from Pothole Point.

The most breathtaking view in the Needles District requires a challenging 10-mile hike to the Confluence Overlook, where the Colorado and Green rivers converge.

Starting at Elephant Hill, the 5.4-mile Chesler Park trail ascends and descends to a spectacular saddle; if you include the side trail to the haunting Druid Arch and loop back through Devil's Kitchen, you'll experience a memorable 10.8-mile adventure. Other notable attractions include Wooden Shoe Arch, easily seen from a roadside pullout, and the 0.6-mile loop trail to Cave Spring, which preserves remnants of historic cowboy camps.

Bears Ears National Monument

As it meanders west toward Canyonlands' Needles District, the Indian Creek Scenic Byway, also known as state Route 211, traverses a section of Bears Ears National Monument, offering plenty of exploration opportunities.

A relatively new addition to the national park system, Bears Ears was designated a monument in 2016. It features numerous campgrounds for those looking to disconnect. A must-see is Newspaper Rock, a fittingly named rock face adorned with centuries of petroglyphs and pictographs, showcasing messages from as far back as 1,500 years ago to the mid-20th century.

The southern section of the monument, accessible via the Trail of the Ancients Scenic Byway, protects ancient cliff dwellings of the Ancestral Puebloans. Among the popular hiking trails in the area are those that lead into Butler Wash, Arch Canyon, and Mule Canyon.

Goblin Valley State Park

Perhaps the most aptly named of Utah's parks, Goblin Valley State Park resembles a fantastical realm of petrified mud. Formations that look like gnomes, trolls, animals, and indeed, goblins fill a bowl-shaped valley, inviting visitors to explore, hide, and peek around as if in a colossal playground.

In a delightful nod to the playful nature of the landscape, the three sections of the Valley of the Goblins offer free hiking. There are no designated trails, allowing visitors to roam freely throughout the area.

On the park's eastern edge, beyond the cliffs that create the Valley of Goblins, a designated trail leads to The Goblin's Lair — a slot canyon sealed by a rockfall, forming a cavernous grotto.

Capitol Reef National Park

When you ask enthusiasts of red-rock canyons to name their favorite park, you might be surprised by how many mention Capitol Reef National Park. A visit to this 100-mile-long expanse of canyon terrain, known as the Waterpocket Fold, quickly reveals why.

The area's quilt-like landscape offers a delightful sampling of the region's parks. Here, you can encounter towering ochre cliffs sliced by a rushing river, deep water-carved gorges, and impressive rock spires. Notably, Hickman Bridge arches dramatically across a deep wash, providing a stunning vista.

One of the park's many draws is its accessibility; numerous major attractions, such as the breathtaking viewpoints of Sunset Point and Goosenecks Overlook, are conveniently clustered near Highway 24, which runs east-west through the northern section of the park.

The scenic drive through the park features additional highlights, turning south from the visitor center, though it is currently closed for repairs until October 2024. However, adventurous visitors can still reach Cassidy Arch via a challenging 8.5-mile hike.

Distinct from other red rock parks, Capitol Reef also highlights the area's pioneer history, preserving a historic ranch and schoolhouse in the Fruita Historic District. The orchards planted by early Mormon settlers continue to produce fruit, which is harvested and transformed into flaky pastries available at the district's operational bakery.

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

About an hour southwest of Capitol Reef lies the northern section of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, a breathtaking 1.87-million-acre area of high desert mesas, intricately carved by canyons that hide towering waterfalls, lush valley oases, and concealed caves and slot canyons.

The journey itself is a highlight as you travel south along Utah Scenic Byway 12 — a road so beautiful it's been designated an All-American Road by the Federal Highway Administration. This route is also known as "A Journey Through Time Scenic Byway," featuring numerous historic landmarks.

Two of the park's top hiking trails are conveniently located along this road: the Upper Calf Creek Falls (2.6 miles round-trip) and Lower Calf Creek Falls (6.7 miles round-trip). Both trails lead to picturesque cascades and inviting swimming holes. Further along the unpaved Hole in the Wall Road, the 5.2-mile trek to the vibrantly striped Zebra Canyon is a popular choice for photography enthusiasts. However, reaching the narrower sections may require wading through thigh-deep water.

Kodachrome Basin State Park

Often overshadowed by visitors heading to Bryce Canyon National Park, Kodachrome Basin State Park boasts its own stunning rock formations — a remarkable 67 spires that are approximately 180 million years old, referred to as sand or sedimentary pipes due to their slender, spindle-like shapes.

Enveloped on three sides by Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, the 2,241-acre state park could easily be dubbed Candyland for its delightful pink-and-white-striped cliffs, Creamsicle-like chimneys, and caramel-hued slickrock. The 5.6-mile Panoramic Trail Long Loop lives up to its name with breathtaking views and a fun cave passage along the way.

The 1.7-mile Shakespeare Arch trail offers picture-perfect scenery, though it's worth noting that the arch itself collapsed a few years back.

Where to stay

Much like a summer camp free from the clanging dinner bell and watchful counselors, Red Cliffs Lodge offers a full-service retreat along the banks of the Colorado River. The lodge features a series of charming wood-paneled cabins that face the rushing waters and majestic cliffs.

Nestled in a secluded valley, this expansive property is a sanctuary for a variety of wildlife. Great blue herons can be seen fishing for their morning meal, geese guide their goslings in swimming, and falcons and hawks glide gracefully from the cliffs above.

The lodge's on-site dining option, the Cowboy Grill, attracts not only guests but also diners from Moab, famed for its signature rib-eye steaks and its dining room and deck featuring stunning glass walls. Along with stargazing, the resort offers a wide range of activities, including yoga, sound healing, river rafting, and Jeep tours.

The lodge's rich history as a working ranch is reflected in the tavern's rustic ambiance and the Moab Museum of Film and Western Heritage, which chronicles the area's legacy as a filming location for westerns and various movies. From John Wayne to Thelma and Louise, many iconic scenes were shot here, making it entertaining to discover those connections. Nightly rates at Red Cliffs Lodge begin at $359.

Conveniently located southwest of Moab, Ulum Moab is the latest addition from the renowned glamping brand Under Canvas, making it a perfect gateway to Canyonlands National Park's Needles District. This company operates resorts near various national parks, including Yellowstone, Yosemite, and the Grand Canyon.

Guests are transported by golf carts across the vehicle-free property to spacious 360-square-foot canvas tent cabins, each featuring full bathrooms, wood-burning stoves, air coolers, and coffee and tea stations. A restaurant, a pool, and three hot tubs with varying temperatures sit atop a rise overlooking Looking Glass Rock, where a round window captures stunning sunsets. Outdoor fire pits, complete with complimentary s'mores ingredients, create a perfect setting to conclude the day. Rates at Ulum Moab start at $624 per night.

Moab offers a wide range of lodging options alongside numerous adventure outfitters, bike shops, and a variety of restaurants, from gourmet to food trucks. Marriott Bonvoy members will especially enjoy the choices available. Book Element Moab starting at 50,000 points or $175 per night; Fairfield Inn & Suites beginning at 56,000 points or $303 per night; or SpringHill Suites from 63,000 points or $244 per night.

Hilton Honors members have options such as Homewood Suites, with rooms available from 64,000 points or $227 per night, or Hoodoo Moab from the Curio Collection, with rates starting at 61,000 points or $249 per night. The Hampton Inn Moab offers rooms from 59,000 points or $217 per night.