Discovering Ireland’s West Coast Through Whiskey Tours, Sheep Farms, and Scenic Seas - Dinogo

Nestled along the Wild Atlantic Way, County Mayo is one of Ireland’s most picturesque regions (and the backdrop for The Banshees of Inisherin). This rural landscape boasts 2,158 square miles of lush green pastures sprinkled with fluffy sheep, soft peat bogs, towering cliffs (often populated by sheep), and hidden rocky beaches—alongside tranquil coastal villages and charming towns adorned with vibrant Georgian architecture.

Yet, the true charm of Mayo lies in its friendly and hospitable residents, many of whom share their rich cultural heritage and stories with visitors. Who better to help you explore the county’s history and contemporary life? These small, family-operated businesses near Westport, Belmullet, and Ballina embody Mayo’s essence. The personal experiences they provide are steeped in history and told through their unique perspectives. This is just part of what makes them so cherished, and why you should book well in advance. Below are some recommendations for family-run treasures, including accommodations and tours—featuring whiskey and Blacksod Bay—beginning in Westport and heading north to Belmullet and Ballina.

Westport

Located just over a three-hour drive from Dublin, Westport serves as an excellent home base for exploring many of County Mayo’s treasured sites, including the historic Westport House estate and adventure park, which features ziplining, climbing walls, glamping, and over 400 acres of natural beauty. The beach at Keem Bay on Achill Island is celebrated as one of the finest in the world, while Clare Island boasts Clare Island Whiskey (see below), historical landmarks, and several breathtaking hiking trails.

Glen Keen Farm

Since the arrival of her son, James Francis Powers IV, Catherine Powers’ family has called what is now Glen Keen Farm home for eight generations. Located just thirty minutes from Westport, this 1,700-acre working sheep farm features a rugged mosaic of pastures, woodlands, bogs, and mountainous landscapes.

Catherine and her husband, James, embrace Irish culture through demonstrations of traditional dance, music, wool spinning, and turf-cutting alongside local artisans. “When we established this business, it was more than just about sustaining our family farm,” Catherine shares. “It was about uplifting a rural community that lacks enterprise and job opportunities.” Among the community members is George Hughes, a charismatic 68-year-old sheepdog trainer, who manages Glen Keen’s three skilled canines and impresses visitors with their remarkable herding abilities.

Glen Keen truly excels with its “Heritage Walk,” a guided experience that unveils the property’s rich history, showcasing everything from vintage farming tools and 17th-century cabins to a pagan burial site and a ring fort dating back to the Bronze Age.

Clare Island Whiskey Experience

Situated three miles off the west coast of Ireland is Clare Island, famously known as the 16th-century stronghold of the “Pirate Queen of Ireland,” Grace O’Malley. Accessible by ferry, her well-preserved tower house (imagine a stout, rectangular silo) still overlooks the rocky headland above the bay. This ancient dwelling is a highlight of Carl O’Grady’s Clare Island Whiskey Experience. (He hails from a long line of islanders.)

A notable gem is the 12th-century Cistercian Abbey, featuring medieval paintings filled with mythical beings. The half-day tour "takes guests on a journey from the mid-1500s to today, showcasing the Irish Clan system, the famine, and more," shares the determined entrepreneur.

Along with a light lunch, O’Grady offers a tasting of his whiskey brand, named after the island. This spirit boasts custom packaging, including a uniquely shaped bottle with a wavy base, housed in a four-paneled wooden box that reflects the brand's lore. "This isn’t just a whiskey, you know," declares the distiller. "It embodies who I am. It encapsulates Clare Island: its people, its place, its culture, its history, its folklore... everything is entwined in this creation."

Currently in its third release, the whiskey is surprisingly smooth despite only four years of aging. What’s his not-so-secret secret? It’s matured on O’Grady’s cherished Dolphin, a 34-foot wooden boat docked in the harbor. For three decades, this vessel was central to the family’s 131-year-old ferry service, which still operates as the sole route to the island. The ferry departs from Roonagh Pier, roughly 30 minutes from Westport. (Bonus: Explore the island at your leisure by booking O’Grady’s chic seven-bedroom Bay View House, a short stroll from the ferry terminal. Minimum two nights, maximum 24 guests; from $861.)

Accommodation Options

From its elevated location, the privately owned Knockranny House Hotel overlooks the coastal village of Westport, offering breathtaking views of Croagh Patrick, Ireland’s sacred mountain, along with the islands of Clew Bay. The hotel features 97 spacious and elegant rooms and the Spa Salveo (which means "to heal"), presenting a comprehensive menu of facial and body treatments. As the sun sets, enjoy a cocktail on the outdoor terrace before indulging in dishes like wild Irish venison with smoked black pudding at the award-winning La Fougère Restaurant. Starting from $172

Belmullet

In and around Belmullet, North Mayo, you'll discover pristine white-sand beaches, a plethora of water sports (surfers, take note!), and some of the most breathtaking cliff hikes in the area.

Blacksod Sea SDinogois

Growing up in Faulmore on North Mayo’s Mullet Peninsula, Michael “Mick” Keane developed a deep love for the sea and fishing alongside his brothers. This passion proved invaluable years later when the pandemic impacted his successful contracting business. "When COVID struck, the construction sector took a hit," says Keane, who seized the opportunity to establish Blacksod Sea SDinogois in 2021. "I’ve always dreamed of owning boats to take people out to the stunning Inishkea Islands and showcase the wonders of Blacksod Bay," he explains. Now, Keane captains a fleet of three boats (the largest accommodating 12 passengers) for adventures that include coastal cruising near 2,200-foot cliffs, wildlife spotting (including a gray seal colony), and angling for mackerel, cod, and other fish species.

The company’s half-day tour of the lesser-known Inishkea Islands is a crowd favorite. After a 30-minute boat journey from the mainland, you’re free to explore sandy beaches and dune grasslands, deserted stone villages, an old Norwegian whaling station, and other historical sites abandoned by the fishing communities nearly a century ago.

Accommodation Options

Nestled in Geesala, the peaceful 30-room family-owned Erris Coast Hotel offers stunning views of the northern shore and is just a 15-minute drive from Belmullet. This dog-friendly haven is conveniently located near several attractions, including Carne Golf Links, ranked #12 in Ireland, the historic Blacksod Lighthouse, and the breathtaking coastal views at Downpatrick Head. Rates start at $100.

Ballina

As the largest town in the county with around 10,500 residents, Ballina is home to President Biden’s Irish relatives. The town spans the River Moy and features a variety of historic sites, including Moyne Abbey and Rosserk Friary. In addition, it offers a lively scene with numerous pubs, restaurants, and nightlife options.

Kilcullen’s Bath House

For a truly authentic experience, nothing rivals a traditional Irish seaweed bath at Kilcullen’s Bathhouse located on Killala Bay in Enniscrone, just 20 minutes north of Ballina. In a private room (couples’ options are available), you start with a brief steam sauna to prepare your skin, followed by a soothing hot bath with seawater and seaweed. The experience concludes with a refreshing cold seawater shower to awaken the senses.

While the scientific benefits of these baths are debated, owner Edward Kilcullen notes that the high iodine content (a natural antioxidant and anti-inflammatory) present in seaweed and seawater is thought to be beneficial for “rheumatic and orthopedic issues.” The saltwater also helps bathers stay buoyant, relieving pressure on muscles and joints, while the alginate in the seaweed serves as a natural skin conditioner.

Kilcullen’s grandfather established the baths in 1912. Edward and his wife, Christine, took over in 1989 (with their son Caine harvesting the seaweed) after 77 years of wear and tear had taken their toll. The couple restored the structure to its Edwardian roots, preserving and renewing what they could, reproducing the rest, and adding additional baths and an atrium café. Some of the rooms feel more like a time capsule than a spa, featuring original ceramic tubs, tiles, steam boxes, and fixtures. “[The tubs] may look old,” Kilcullen explains, “but they’re impeccably clean. . . . Modernizing would have been the easy option, but we wanted to preserve its charm.” Thankfully, he says, their patrons agree.

Rouse’s Bar

Situated in the heart of downtown Ballina, Rouse’s Bar is the go-to spot for locals seeking a pint. Licensed since 1865, the Rouse family took over the lease in 1947, running it as a bar, grocery, and hardware store. As supermarkets gained popularity in 1955, they transitioned to a pub-only model. The mahogany bar has remained intact since then. Currently, second-generation owner Pat Rouse manages the bar with his daughter Fiona, greeting patrons with a warm handshake and a bright smile. Pat was raised in the family business—he was born in a room above the pub and spent his childhood gathering glasses and helping out. Although he briefly explored banking, he found it unfulfilling. “I wasn’t meeting people,” he reflects. “I enjoy chatting and having fun.” After his father passed when Pat was 20, he returned to help with the pub, and he hasn’t looked back since.

Evenings at Rouse’s Bar are always vibrant, but Saturday nights are particularly special. From 9:30 to midnight, the beloved “Trad Night” (traditional Irish music session) features talented local musicians, and everyone is invited to join in the fun.

Where to stay: Enniscoe House

Originally constructed in 1740 just outside Ballina, Enniscoe House is a stunning family-run Georgian country residence on Lough Conn, featuring high ceilings, three luxurious guest rooms, and three suites. The property also boasts 160 acres of lush woodlands and grasslands, alongside an ornamental garden beautifully restored to its 1905 charm. On the grounds, guests will find the North Mayo Heritage Center and museum, offering access to approximately 1.2 million records for those tracing their genealogy in the area, including graveyard maps and ship manifests. Open from April to October; bed-and-breakfast starting at $227