Embark on a magical journey through Edinburgh with this guide to J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter landmarks.
Can you believe it? Over 20 years have passed since the iconic boy wizard first enchanted readers with J.K. Rowling’s bestselling series.
The anniversary is often celebrated with special book releases and themed events. But the ultimate tribute to Harry Potter? A visit to the birthplace of it all: Edinburgh, Scotland.
Edinburgh, the stunning Scottish capital, has been J.K. Rowling’s home since the early 1990s, inspiring much of her magical world.
J.K. Rowling’s journey with Harry Potter began in the cozy cafes of Edinburgh, where the city’s Gothic charm and historic graveyards fueled her imagination.
Here’s your guide to retracing J.K. Rowling’s steps around Edinburgh:
1. Start your day with breakfast at The Elephant House Cafe
The Elephant House proudly claims to be the “birthplace of Harry Potter.”
Nestled on George IV Bridge, one of Edinburgh’s main walkways, The Elephant House sits at the heart of the city. (The Elephant House, 21 George IV Bridge Edinburgh; +44 131 220 5355)
In the 1990s, when J.K. Rowling was struggling to make a living, she often sought refuge in Edinburgh’s cafes, drawn by their warmth and inviting ambiance.
Though several cafes in the city boast hosting the author, The Elephant House has the proof: a humble wall adorned with photos of Rowling writing and quotes from the author herself.
Though these photos were likely taken after her rise to fame, stepping into this cozy cafe and scoring a window seat with a view of Edinburgh Castle makes it easy to see how Rowling drew inspiration here.
This elephant-themed cafe has become a sanctuary for writers, poets, and dreamers eager to follow in Rowling’s footsteps. It’s also a popular tourist spot: Edinburgh locals can’t pass by without tourists stopping for a selfie.
No visit is complete without checking out the restrooms. The white walls are filled with Harry Potter-themed graffiti – from cheeky jokes to heartfelt tributes to Rowling. While the cafe once tried to discourage these scribblings, it has since accepted that it can’t be stopped.
George IV Bridge is also home to the National Library of Scotland and the Edinburgh Central Library, making it the perfect destination for those eager to dive deeper into literary history beyond Harry Potter.
2. Take in the towering spires of George Heriot’s School
Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry is undoubtedly the most iconic setting in the Harry Potter series. Once Harry receives his owl-delivered acceptance letter, the magical school becomes the stage for much of the story’s events.
While most modern British schools don't resemble Hogwarts, Edinburgh is home to several castle-like institutions that may have sparked Rowling’s imagination, such as Stuart’s Melville College and the David Bryce-designed Fettes College (where fictional James Bond was educated).
READ: Scotland’s 10 best castles
However, it’s George Heriot’s School, located in the heart of the city, that is widely considered the primary inspiration for Hogwarts. Just around the corner from The Elephant House, the school looks like it belongs in a fairy tale.
Founded in 1628, George Heriot’s was originally established as a school for “puire fatherless bairnes” – essentially orphans and children without fathers.
Much like Harry Potter himself.
George Heriot’s is an active school, so it isn’t open for public tours. However, its fairy-tale turrets are visible from the street, and sometimes the school hosts events during Edinburgh’s renowned summer festivals. (George Heriot’s School, Lauriston Place, Edinburgh EH3 9EQ)
The University of Edinburgh’s Teviot Row House, the world’s oldest purpose-built student union, also gives off a Hogwarts-like atmosphere. However, it’s one of the university’s other student union buildings, Potterow, that (by coincidence) bears the perfectly themed name. (Teviot Row House – known as the Gilded Balloon during the Edinburgh Fringe Festival – 13 Bristo Square, Edinburgh EH8 9AJ)
3. Search for Voldemort at Greyfriars Kirkyard
Fans will remember the spine-tingling moment in “Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets” when the ghost of Tom Marvolo Riddle reveals that his name is an anagram of his dark alter ego: Lord Voldemort.
Curious about the origins of Voldemort’s name? It might have come from Greyfriars Kirkyard.
This atmospheric graveyard features a tombstone marking the death of Thomas Riddell, an Edinburgh gentleman who shares his name with the dark wizard Voldemort. (Greyfriars Kirkyard, Candlemaker Row, Edinburgh; +44 131 225 1900)
A coincidence? Unlikely.
The graveyard is also the final resting place of William McGonagall, a notoriously bad poet who may have inspired the name of the beloved Professor McGonagall.
4. Take a coffee break at Spoon
A stroll through the atmospheric kirkyard is the perfect excuse for a well-deserved coffee and cake break.
Spoon, a charming café on the first floor in Edinburgh, is famous for its wholesome meals and delightful afternoon tea.
In the 1990s, the building was home to a different café, Nicolson’s Cafe, another place where Rowling is said to have spent countless hours writing Harry’s magical adventures.
“Writing and cafes are strongly linked in my brain,” Rowling told The Telegraph in 1997. “I still write in longhand; I enjoy physically shuffling papers around; and you don’t have to leave to make a cup of coffee.”
When Nicolson’s closed, the space became a Chinese buffet, before reverting to its café roots when Spoon opened in 2009. (6a Nicolson Street Edinburgh; +44 131 623 1752)
Today, the café boasts a spacious and inviting interior – light and airy, with large windows and wide tables. It’s an ideal spot to write while observing the vibrant life of Nicolson Street below.
5. Shop at Diagon Alley/Victoria Street
Edinburgh's architecture is a breathtaking blend of narrow medieval buildings, Victorian towers, Gothic spires, and the elegance of Georgian design.
Around every corner, you’ll find a new and awe-inspiring view, but Victoria Street is one of the city’s most photographed locations for good reason.
This charming, curved street with two levels is home to a variety of independent shops, each featuring vibrant and unique storefronts.
A great place to pick up souvenirs, Victoria Street is a delightful gem in the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town.
Shops like the quirky joke store Aha Ha Ha Jokes (Aha Ha Ha Jokes, 99 West Bow, Edinburgh) and the rare second-hand bookshop The Old Town Bookshop could easily be mistaken for Diagon Alley storefronts, the magical shopping district in the Harry Potter series.
The entire street, with its quirky charm, seems like it could be plucked straight from the Harry Potter universe.
It’s no surprise that Victoria Street and its surrounding area are believed to have inspired Rowling’s depiction of Diagon Alley.
In fact, nearby Candlemaker Row proudly displays a plaque celebrating its connection to the world of Harry Potter.
Victoria Street has its darker history too. This street once housed the home of Major Thomas Weir, a 17th-century man infamous as the 'Wizard of the West Bow.'
Weir was executed for witchcraft in 1670, and his story is often linked to the inspiration behind Robert Louis Stevenson’s character, Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde.
Victoria Street leads down to the Grassmarket, now a vibrant area filled with nightlife, but once known for public executions. (Victoria Street, Edinburgh, EH1 2JW)
The name of the local pub The Last Drop (The Last Drop, 74-78 Grassmarket, Edinburgh EH1 2JR) doesn’t refer to a drink, but rather to blood. This was the site of Edinburgh’s last public hanging.
6. Spend a night at the Balmoral Hotel
By the time Rowling wrapped up the Potter series with the 2007 release of 'Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows,' she had transformed from a struggling writer to a global literary sensation.
Although J.K. Rowling keeps her wealth largely private, a recent estimate from The New York Times suggests that the author might now be a billionaire.
While finishing her final Harry Potter book, Rowling found solace in Edinburgh’s The Balmoral Hotel, specifically in room 552, which is now known as The Rowling Suite.
The Balmoral Hotel is a well-known fixture in Edinburgh, with its iconic clock tower, famously set two minutes ahead to ensure travelers from nearby Waverley Station never miss their trains. It has graced the city skyline since 1902. (The Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street, Edinburgh EH2 2EQ)
The Rowling Suite features the actual writing desk where Rowling composed the book, as well as a marble bust of Hermes, the Greek god of travel, signed by the author herself.
7. Discover J.K. Rowling’s handprints along the Royal Mile
In 2008, the City of Edinburgh honored Rowling with The Edinburgh Award, a prestigious accolade presented annually to individuals who have positively impacted the city.
The handprints of each recipient are immortalized outside the City Chambers building.
Rowling joins a prestigious list: in 2007, Edinburgh author Ian Rankin won the award, while Olympian Chris Hoy received it in 2009.
“It seems especially fitting for a writer’s hands to be honored this way. I’m truly humbled that my keyboard-worn nails and the pen calluses from writing Harry Potter are commemorated in the very place where I created the series,” Rowling remarked about receiving the award.
Edinburgh’s City Chambers is no ordinary government building: designed by John Adam, it is a historic gem that was completed in 1761. (Edinburgh City Chambers, 253 High Street, Edinburgh EH1 1YJ)
8. Take the Hogwarts Express to the Highlands
Courtesy pexels
While Edinburgh's cityscape may have inspired Rowling’s magical universe, Hogwarts itself resides in a far-off, hidden location – nowhere near a bustling capital city.
When the Harry Potter films were made in 2001, many of the outdoor scenes were filmed in the stunning Scottish Highlands.
Courtesy Christoph Strässler/Creative commons/Flickr
When Harry boards the Hogwarts Express at London King's Cross on Platform 9 and 3/4, he embarks on a journey north on the iconic steam train.
Fans eager to follow Harry’s journey can catch the Jacobite Steam Train in Fort William, Scotland. While it doesn’t depart from London, the route through Scotland's west coast is sure to remind Potter fans of the magical ride.
The company behind the Jacobite service supplied the Hogwarts Express train for all eight Harry Potter films.
They also permitted filmmakers to use the scenic route for filming, bringing the Hogwarts Express to life on screen.
In the films, when the Hogwarts Express crosses a towering bridge amidst misty, rugged Scottish landscapes, it’s the Glenfinnan Viaduct—an impressive concrete structure built in the 1890s.
The viaduct plays a memorable role in the movie adaptation of 'Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets,' when Harry and Ron chase the train in Ron’s flying car, soaring above the viaduct.
Courtesy Jeff J Mitchell/Getty Images Europe/Getty Images
For those who prefer not to ride the train, stunning views of the viaduct and Loch Shiel are available from the surrounding hills, near the Glenfinnan Visitor Centre. Loch Shiel, of course, doubled as the Black Lake in the wizarding world.
This location holds additional historical significance as it’s home to the Glenfinnan Monument, a 60-foot tribute to the 1745 Jacobite uprising, when Bonnie Prince Charlie attempted to reclaim the British throne.
Other stunning filming locations from the Harry Potter films in the Scottish Highlands include the breathtaking scenery of Glen Coe and the idyllic Loch Etive.
(The Jacobite Steam Train departs from Fort William Station, Tom-na-Faire Station Square, Fort William Highland PH33 6EN)
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