Enjoying the Journey from the City to the Coast

At 2 a.m. on December 7, 1993, just before turning 12, Ivan Vásquez set off on a repurposed bike crafted from an old frame and spare parts, embarking on a 118-mile ride along steep, rugged mountain roads from Oaxaca City to Iglesia de Santa Catarina Juquila.

Dressed in jogging pants, soccer shoes, a black 'Venice' hoodie from his aunt in LA, and carrying a backpack filled with water, a torta de jamón, a tire repair kit, a blanket, and muscle relief cream, Vásquez undertook the grueling journey — a full 24-hour trek — as part of a demanding pilgrimage that culminates at the feet of the Vírgen de Juquila. This small wooden statue of the Virgin Mary was gifted to a local Indigenous man in the 16th century by Fray Jordán de Santa Catalina and became a cherished object of reverence after it survived a devastating fire in 1633 that destroyed the church, leaving the statue unscathed and now with a darker complexion resembling that of the native Chatinos and other Indigenous peoples.

Vásquez was not alone in his journey. Every year, leading up to the Virgin of Juquila’s Day on December 8, Federal Highway 131, which winds through the Sierra Madre del Sur mountains, becomes a pathway for thousands of Zapotecos, Mixes, Maya groups from Guatemala and Chiapas, and other Indigenous peoples. Some ride bikes, others walk, each with their own reasons—praying for loved ones or pledging to change themselves. Vásquez hoped to help his father overcome his struggle with alcohol and to gather funds to save their family home from foreclosure.

The journey was undeniably tough—at one point, Vásquez’s cousin found him exhausted on the roadside, his leg muscles burning and cramped. Yet, the route was peppered with stops offering a delightful selection of Oaxacan foods. He recalls enjoying memelas slathered in salty lard, topped with black bean puree and cheese, smoky pit-roasted barbacoa, hearty herb-infused soups, and mezcal. With the support of nourishing food, his family, and his faith, he completed the pilgrimage that year, repeating it twice more before moving to the States at 16. Now, he runs a mini-chain of celebrated Oaxacan restaurants in Los Angeles named Madre. “I didn’t realize it then, but all the pain, fear, sweat, and cramps were preparing me to leave Oaxaca,” he reflects. “It gave me the courage to come to the U.S. alone.”

Today, in addition to being a challenging route for countless religious pilgrims each year, Highway 131 serves as one of the primary roads connecting Oaxaca City to the stunning beach towns of Puerto Escondido and Huatulco. Those embarking on the six-plus hour drive to the coast will pass through the same quaint villages and roadside food stands where Vásquez and his fellow travelers once stopped. This summer, however, the long-anticipated Oaxaca-Barranca Larga-Ventanilla superhighway is set to open, replacing the bumpy, twisting, nausea-inducing 131 and 175 highways and transforming the journey to the coast into a mere two-and-a-half-hour drive.

However, just like a handmade pot of mole, taking shortcuts in Oaxaca isn’t advisable; what you save in time, you lose in flavor. If you decide to embark on your own pilgrimage down Highway 131, a treasure trove of mouthwatering dishes awaits, along with friendly villages filled with skilled local cooks ready to ease your travel fatigue. Here, Vásquez shares his favorite stops and dishes discovered along the way, cherished memories from his childhood journeys, and his many returns since.

Note: You can complete this itinerary in as little as two days or stretch it out over a week, depending on how long you wish to linger on the coast or in any of the picturesque villages. Keep in mind that while the distance may seem short, the roads are quite winding and slow. Either way, take your time, but be ready to eat!

PART I: Journey from 131 to Puerto Escondido

Stop 1: Villa de Zaachila (approximately 10 miles from Oaxaca City)

What to eat: Antojitos at Empanadas y Memelas Irlanda

Upon exiting Oaxaca International Airport, your first culinary experience awaits just 20 minutes down the highway at the Mercado Gastronómico in the quaint town of Villa de Zaachila. Here, the antojitos at Empanadas y Memelas Irlanda steal the show. Their empanadas de verde are filled with a vibrant green mole that strikes a balance of tart, sweet, and minty flavors, crafted from green tomatoes, chayotes, and epazote. Irlanda’s enormous memelas, perfect for sharing, are slathered with rich asientos (unrefined lard), diced white onions, and salty cheese, and can be enhanced with a huevo de comal — a fried egg cooked hard over a wood fire on a clay comal.

Stop 2: Villa de Zaachila, Colonia Soledad (1 mile)

What to eat: Pollos Asados a la Cubana Lencho Verano

A bit further down the highway at Ñatipaa, indulge in the distinct flavors of the Cuenca del Papaloapan region at Pollos Asados a la Cubana Lencho Verano. Here, wood-fired roasted chicken and whole suckling pig provide a delightful contrast to the predominantly Valles Centrales dishes you'll encounter. These crispy meats are marinated in Cuban mojo de ajo, a recipe brought by Cuban immigrants to Papaloapan, and served alongside thick, refried black beans, rice, corn tortillas, and salsa.

Stop 3: Villa Sola de Vega (48 miles)What to drink: Café de olla at Comedor Juquilita

“Reaching Sola de Vega in the morning felt like a true achievement after completing the first leg of the journey,” recalls Vásquez of his initial trek. “Then, I enjoyed a café de olla and frijoles de la olla, all while soaking in the stunning views of the Sierra Madre Sur.” After climbing the lush, green mountains, it's the perfect moment to savor a café de olla at Comedor Juquilita, a cozy blue-painted Mytoury shaded by a large tree whose branches stretch over the restaurant’s four parking spots. Here, you'll also find hearty bowls of pollo enchilado — chicken legs simmered in a rich guajillo chile salsa and garnished with epazote — alongside caldo de pollo (chicken soup) loaded with Mexican rice, served with soft black bean tortillas.

STOP 4: San Pedro Juchatengo (31 miles)

Drink this: Mezcal de marihuana at the roadside market

Prepare for sharp, winding turns on the next ascent, offering breathtaking views of the canyon on your left, lined with pine-oak forests and agave espadin, leading you to San Pedro Juchatengo for a taste of mezcal de marihuana. Even at the age of 11, Vásquez was encouraged to sip mezcal to boost his spirits on the climb. “It’s amusing how times have changed,” he reflects. “Back then, during my pilgrimages, there were no tepextate, cuishe, or espadin — just cheap mezcal with no labels.” Now, just off the road, a lively market buzzes with comedores (food stalls) — Comedor Lupita and Comedor Sagitario both serve hearty costillas en salsa roja (pork ribs in red chile salsa) and tasajo asado (fire-cooked beef jerky). But first, try a mezcal flight at a small stand on the market’s right. Among the unlabeled bottles, you’ll find mezcal infusions like gusano (grubs), fruit punch, and impressive glass carboys brimming with mountain marihuana steeped in espadin mezcal. It has a flavor reminiscent of mild, skunky, pine-scented smoke, though don’t expect strong mind-altering effects. Still, it’s wise to grab some chips and Maruchan to go, just in case.

STOP 5: Santa Catarina Cerro del Vidrio (15 miles)

Eat this: Sopa caldosa and café de olla at Comedor Emi

Comedor Emy and Comedor Beather are located just beyond the junction leading to Juquila and Puerto Escondido. “This is where we’d always pause for one last café de olla before reaching Juquila, and it’s also the first time you notice the cooler climate of La Costa,” Vásquez shares. Enjoy a warm cup of cinnamon-spiced café de olla alongside sopa caldosa, an elevated fideo soup from the Valles Centrales, made with anise- and eucalyptus-scented chicken stock, hierba santa leaves, and garnished with cilantro, providing a touch of hospitality as you descend into Puerto Escondido.

STOP 6: Puerto Escondido (53 miles)

Eat this: Discover the city's must-visit spots here

After settling into your accommodation for the night, dive into the vibrant beach scene of Puerto Escondido — where you can sip tropical cocktails, savor local seafood at popular Mytouries, and dance to electronic beats with your toes in the sand.

PART II: 175 to Oaxaca

STOP 1: Santa Maria Huatulco (approximately 70 miles from Puerto Escondido)

Eat this: Try the piña rellena at Ay Caray, along with pancita de res and agua fresca de guanabana from the unnamed morning stand.

Head south from Puerto Escondido toward Highway 175 en route to Santa Maria Huatulco. The development of Huatulco began in the ’80s, aiming to attract tourists to its nine picturesque bays, 36 beaches, and lush nature reserves. Today, it’s a hotspot for families and ecotourists from Oaxaca City and CDMX, with beachside palapas offering barbecued fish, ceviches, and the specialty of marisquerías: piña rellena, or seafood-stuffed pineapples au gratin.

At the southwest corner of Av. Benito Juarez and Juan Escutia lies a bustling, unnamed morning stand surrounded by vibrant aguas frescas and two anafres asadores (charcoal grills), where women prepare memelas and goat barbacoa tacos. A large pot of dark red pancita de res (menudo) simmers, tinted by chile cascabel, charred chile de árbol, and chile morita. Refresh yourself with a cup of agua fresca de guanabana, a sweet, pulpy drink reminiscent of sugary apple, pineapple, and berries. Make sure to save space for a second breakfast in the mountains.

STOP 2: Candelaria Loxicha (29 miles)

Eat this: Oaxacan breakfast at Comedor “el rincon del sabor”

A short drive up the mountains leads to a quaint wooden hut with aluminum siding, home to what might be the best breakfast on earth: a plate featuring warm, herbed beans, barbecued tasajo (local beef jerky), molcajete salsa, and a huevo de comal cooked to perfection on a hot, greaseless clay disc, its crispy edges easily lifting off. “Memories of special places like this are why I’ll still choose the old highway,” reflects Vásquez, a sentiment shared by many concerned about what might be lost with the new road. Through the open window, gaze at hazy mountains and a forest veiled in morning fog as steam curls up from your plate. Indigenous communities across Oaxaca prepare similar breakfasts of black beans infused with epazote, hierba de conejo (a fragrant wild herb), and other local seasonings, accompanied by dry-cooked eggs soaking in the bean broth and tasajo. Tortillas made from landrace corn masa and stone-ground salsas using both fresh and dried local chiles complete the meal. If there’s one meal worth the journey, it’s this one.

STOP 3: San José del Pacífico (34 miles)

Eat this: Los hongos sagrados in San José del Pacífico if desired; mole coloradito at Comedor Familiar.

According to legend, George Harrison and John Lennon of the Beatles ventured to this sacred realm of magic mushrooms in 1969 to expand their consciousness through ritual ceremonies guided by the psilocybin priestess, Maria Sabina. Since then, the town has attracted many spiritual seekers, but its rise as a drug tourism hotspot has brought challenges, including the overharvesting of mushrooms and insufficient infrastructure for inexperienced visitors. Nevertheless, there are plenty of delicious, non-hallucinogenic dishes to enjoy. “My uncle used to say, ‘Let’s dine in the clouds,’” recalls Vásquez, “because of the altitude and the chill in San José del Pacífico, but also because those consuming those mushrooms truly felt like they were in the clouds.”

If you’re contemplating a longer stay along the highway, this cool, forested town is perfect for nature hikes to the mirador, healing sessions in a temazcal, and various ecotourism adventures. Hotel Boutique y Cabañas Alto de la Sierra offers comfortable, upscale lodging, or consider Cabañas Pacifíco, one of the many rustic cabin resorts where you can relax, connect with a shaman, and obtain los hongos sagrados (sacred mushrooms). Energize for your journey with a well-seasoned mole coloradito and chicharron salsa with stewed pork rinds at Comedor Familiar, a cozy Mytoury at the entrance to the nearby town of San Mateo Rio Hondo. Whether for a few hours or overnight, you’re now in the Mihuatlán District, home to many of Oaxaca’s esteemed maestro mezcaleros and wild agaves, making it the perfect time for mezcal.

STOP 4: San Guillermo, Municipality of Mihuatlán de Porfirio Díaz (35 MILES before Oaxaca City)Drink this: Mezcal at Palenque de Francisco Garcia Léon (Cuishe)

“Mihuatlán's terroir has been vital in my journey to understand mezcal, embodying the rich historical flavors of Oaxaca,” shares Vásquez. “This town is home to renowned mezcaleros like Francisco García, Hermoneges Vásquez, Sosimo Jarquín, and many others.”

As you leave the mountains behind, the arid landscape beckons for a taste of the acclaimed mezcal from San Guillermo: Cuishe. Crafted by maestro mezcalero Francisco García Léon, this spirit showcases herbaceous and mineral qualities derived from various agaves at his countryside distillery: cuishe, tepextate, espadin, verde, and mexicano (his favorite). Cuishe has gained popularity in the U.S. and boasts an elegant tasting room in Oaxaca City, but García has also enhanced his roadside distillery along the highway in San Guillermo. While the Cuishe site is now more welcoming to visitors, the traditional copper stills — and García himself — ensure this heritage brand remains authentic. “Francisco may be shy about photographs, but I suspect he’ll need to adapt,” says Vásquez.

Grab a few bottles to bring back to your hotel in Oaxaca City — it’s the perfect way to wrap up all the flavors, sights, and sounds experienced along the winding roads of old Oaxaca.

Bill Esparza is a James Beard Award-winning writer and the author of LA Mexicano, focusing on Latino cuisine and culture. Juan de Dios Garza Vela is a photographer with a passion for food and travel. When he’s not capturing images, he also creates illustrations and murals. Currently based in Guadalajara, he can’t envision life without tacos.