Essential Guide to Enjoying Jamón Ibérico in Barcelona

Spain and jamón are intertwined; you can't discuss one without the other. In Barcelona, savoring a thin slice of dry-aged ham is a must for any meat-loving traveler. It’s nearly impossible to find a traditional restaurant or bar that doesn't showcase a magnificent leg of ham on a beautiful wooden jamonero or even suspended from the ceiling.

In short, if you're a meat enthusiast, sampling jamón during your stay in Barcelona is a must; you might even consider sneaking some home. However, be aware that not all jamón is of the same caliber. Since the 1980s, Spanish ham has been categorized by the government using colored packaging labels that reflect its quality based on the pig's breed and diet, along with a separate label indicating the curing time. Here’s how to navigate the world of jamón (or “pernil” in Catalan, commonly found on menus in Barcelona).

Not all hams are created equal

In Barcelona, you’ll likely come across several popular varieties of jamón:

Jamón ibérico, made exclusively from Iberian pigs, represents the pinnacle of ham quality, celebrated for its exquisite marbling. This category includes three tiers, resulting in four distinct labels:

Jamón ibérico de bellota is the crème de la crème, marked by the beautiful white fat ribbons contrasting with its rich red meat. Enthusiasts often pay up to 1,500 euros ($1,700) for a leg, reflecting its exceptional quality. It is further classified into black and red grades:

• Black-label ibérico pigs roam the dehesa oak forests of southwestern Spain during the fall and winter, indulging in a diet of bellotas (acorns), herbs, and wild vegetation. This diet imparts a complex array of aromas, highlighted by its signature sweet and nutty flavors. These pigs are 100 percent Iberian pata negra, identifiable by their black hooves.
• Red-label ibérico pigs enjoy a similar foraged diet but consist of 75 percent Iberian and 25 percent Duroc, a breed of white-footed pigs originating from the U.S.

Jamón ibérico cebo de campo, marked by a green label, comes from pigs that have grazed partially on acorns and grass, with additional grain in their diet. They may be either 75 percent Iberian and 25 percent Duroc or a balanced 50-50 mix of both breeds.

Jamón ibérico de cebo, indicated by a white label, is sourced from pigs that are 50 percent Iberian and 50 percent Duroc, exclusively fed a grain diet.

Another variety of Spanish ham, jamón serrano, does not feature any color coding. Serrano is produced on commercial farms using various pig breeds, such as Duroc, Landrace, Large White, or Pietrain, which typically have white or light brown hooves. These pigs are often raised in confined spaces and fed grain, making serrano more affordable compared to pata negra ham. The meat displays thin white fat interspersed with pale-pink muscle. Although there is no color label, the curing time will still be specified.

The curing process

Along with the pig's breed and diet, jamón is also labeled based on its curing duration. Curing preserves food by extracting moisture through salt, air, and time; all types of jamón, from budget-friendly to premium, undergo this process, although each producer determines the optimal curing time for their specific jamón. For ham from white-footed pigs, the minimum curing period is between nine to twelve months and is commonly labeled as “jamón bodega.” Jamón reserva is cured for twelve to fifteen months, while gran reserva requires at least fifteen months. Iberian pigs are cured for a minimum of two years, placing all pata negra ham in the gran reserva category. However, the leg size is also a consideration: a smaller paleta (shoulder) may need only twenty-four months, while the back leg (also called “jamón” in Spanish) could take thirty-six months or longer, depending on its weight. Traditionally, most Spanish ham was cured using mountain air in natural curing sheds, but nowadays, most curing occurs in climate-controlled facilities.

How to purchase it

You can choose to order your jamón at a restaurant, avoiding the stress of making numerous ham-related choices, but nothing beats the satisfaction of leaving a market with a prized piece under your arm. You'll need to choose between a shoulder or back leg, how you want it sliced, and if you even want it sliced at all. You can find jamón at specialty shops like Enrique Tomás, bustling markets like La Boqueria, your neighborhood butcher, or even supermarkets where quality remains high yet prices are reasonable. For instance, at Mercadona supermarket, they’ll slice it fresh for you, or you can opt for pre-packaged vacuum-sealed options.

First, decide whether to go for jamón or paleta. The meat on the paleta is closer to the bone, resulting in a richer, redder flavor, and it's generally sliced thinner. If you prefer milder flavors and don’t mind spending a bit more, then the back leg is your best choice. Both options have their merits, but paleta tends to be more budget-friendly.

If you're buying it sliced, consider how you'd like it prepared. In Spain, jamón is typically sliced either a máquina (by machine) or a cuchillo (by hand). While the machine method is common and acceptable, many enthusiasts believe that hand slicing enhances the flavor. Although the difference is minimal, the hand-cutting technique involves a visually appealing long, thin jamón knife, adding a certain flair to the experience.

While it's not practical for most visitors, if you purchase a whole bone-in leg, make sure to hang it or place it on a jamonero at home. Keep the cut side covered to prevent it from drying out or getting moldy, and the meat will last about a month after being cut. If you opt for sliced jamón, Enrique Tomás suggests consuming it within three months, though it may remain good in the fridge for a longer period. Remember to take it out an hour before serving to let it reach optimal flavor and aroma. Once at room temperature, the slices can be easily separated.

How to transport it home

Unfortunately, health regulations prohibit bringing jamón into the United States unless it's from a USDA-certified commercial producer. If you're determined to sneak some in, there's a method that has been known to work — but keep this to yourself. First, purchase your sliced jamón vacuum-sealed, which should be available wherever you shop. Wrap it in multiple layers of aluminum foil and place it between the pages of a magazine. Then, enclose the magazine in lightly scented clothing in your checked luggage. If sneaking jamón into the U.S. seems too complicated, you can always order it online from José Andrés’s Mercado Little Spain.

Ordering jamón at a restaurant is usually simpler; many menus feature just one type, typically served plain on a basic white plate. Even an unnamed, unlabeled jamón can be expensive at restaurants. While tourist-oriented spots like El Nacional on Barcelona’s upscale Passeig de Gràcia might charge even more, you'll have the pleasure of watching it being expertly sliced from the bone right before your eyes.

If you're not quite ready to dive into the pure taste of sliced jamón, consider trying it with huevos rotos — eggs with runny yolks served atop French fries and jamón — or delightful seasonal pèsols, featuring sweet peas in a savory broth complemented by small cubes of rich red jamón.

Originally from Florida, Melissa Leighty is a freelance writer and photographer currently residing in Barcelona, Spain, and is also the owner of Salut Wine Studio in the city.