Essential Jordanian Dishes: From Mezze to Knafeh

Jordan's strategic position in the Middle East has made it a hub for human migration for centuries. Over time, diverse groups such as Circassians, Armenians, Syrians, Palestinians, nomadic Bedouins, and even the enigmatic Nabateans have made this land their home. This blend of cultures is beautifully represented in Jordanian cuisine. Tasting the offerings of this small yet incredibly welcoming country is a chance to savor its diverse flavors and gain insight into its history. From the northern Levantine specialties like maqlubah (an upside-down dish of rice and stewed chicken or lamb) to southern Bedouin favorites such as mansaf (a lavish dish of rice and lamb cooked in yogurt) and zarb (meat barbecued in an underground pit), these are the culinary highlights you can't miss in Jordan. Sahtein!

1. Mansaf at Kir Heres

• Where: Al-Karak in Karak Governorate

Mansaf, a substantial dish of rice and meat, embodies Jordanian hospitality and is widely regarded as the national dish. Some historical accounts link mansaf to thereed, an ancient meal of meat, broth, and bread enjoyed by nomadic Bedouins, referenced in both the Qur’an and the Bible. Today, mansaf is a staple at communal gatherings like weddings, birthdays, and holidays, and is also served to honor esteemed guests. Decorated with toasted almonds, pine nuts, and parsley, mansaf is presented on a large platter, with a thin Bedouin flatbread known as shraak layered beneath the rice and tender lamb shanks that have been simmered in a unique jameed broth. Jameed, made from fermented sheep or goat milk yogurt that is sun-dried for preservation, lends mansaf its characteristic slightly tangy taste.

Located in the heart of Al Karak Governorate, just a stone's throw from the impressive Karak Castle, a formidable 12th-century Crusader fortress, Kir Heres restaurant offers a leisurely mansaf dining experience (starting from JD20/US$28). Don’t be deceived by the humble decor featuring yellow and green tablecloths; this is where you'll discover some of the finest mansaf in Jordan, thanks to Karak's renowned jameed quality.

Tip: To fully enjoy an authentic mansaf experience, use your right hand to eat directly from the platter. Scoop up pieces of meat and form them into balls of rice, then sip the lightly salted jameed broth served in a cup alongside your meal.

2. Maqlubah at Beit Sitti

• Location: Al Weibdeh in Amman
• Be sure to make a reservation

The traditional Palestinian maqlubah is celebrated across the Levant, including Iraq, Syria, Palestine, Lebanon, and Jordan. This iconic dish can effortlessly feed a crowd during special gatherings with family and friends. What’s not to love about layers of rice mixed with shereya (dried vermicelli noodles), accompanied by stewed chicken or lamb, fried vegetables such as eggplant and cauliflower, and infused with turmeric and baharat—a popular spice blend of seven flavors like cumin, cardamom, and cloves?

Maqlubah is prepared by layering its ingredients in a large pot for a rich and hearty meal, which is then swiftly inverted onto a serving platter. True to its name, which means 'upside down' in Arabic, maqlubah is served with the most delectable components on top. At Beit Sitti in Amman’s picturesque Al Weibdeh neighborhood, sisters Maria, Tania, and Dina Haddad honor their grandmother’s recipe by serving maqlubah (starting at JD30/US$42) on a shaded terrace, complemented by mutabbal (roasted eggplant spread), farmer’s salad, and a sweet semolina dessert called basbousa in a detailed cooking class held at their grandmother’s home.

3. Mezze at Fakhreldin

• Location: Second Circle in Amman
• Be sure to make a reservation

More than just a meal, mezze offers a delightful assortment of appetizers presented before the main course, frequently enjoyed with a carafe of milky arak, an anise-infused liquor. Within a mezze, you’ll explore beyond hummus to discover quintessential Jordanian dishes such as kibbeh (minced raw meat), mutabbal (a roasted eggplant and tahini dip), batata harra (spicy roasted potatoes), sambousek (crispy pastries filled with za’atar and meat), tabbouleh (a fresh salad of bulgur and parsley), muhammara (spicy walnut dip), dawali (stuffed grape leaves), and foul (fava bean spread). For an authentic Levantine mezze experience (starting at JD4.75/US$6.70 each) in a magnificent setting with marbled floors and elegant columns, reserve a table at Fakhreldin in Amman’s Second Circle, where chef Rafik Nakhle and his team present an extravagant menu of over 100 dishes in a traditional mid-20th-century villa created by former Jordanian prime minister Fawzi Al-Mulki.

Tip: Make sure to schedule time for a relaxing session of after-meal Turkish coffee while enjoying some people-watching. (Noteworthy guests at Fakhreldin have included heads of state like former king of Spain Juan Carlos I and celebrities such as Naomi Campbell and Sting.)

4. Zarb in Wadi Rum

• Location: Wadi Rum desert

One of the most captivating experiences in Jordan’s Mars-like Wadi Rum desert is spending time at a traditional Bedouin desert camp. Here, you can witness the preparation of zarb, a Bedouin barbecue cooked for hours in an underground pit. The age-old technique remains unchanged: foil-wrapped meat such as chicken, lamb, or goat is placed in a round metal container with coals, along with spices and vegetables like potatoes, eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, and onions. This assembly is then lowered into a sand pit, covered with blankets and sand, and left to cook for two to three hours until the meat becomes tender and aromatic. Once ready, zarb is served alongside freshly made rice and a variety of side dishes, including fattoush (a mixed greens and vegetable salad), mutabbal (roasted eggplant spread), and hummus. Almost every Bedouin camp in the desert includes zarb on their dinner menu for overnight guests (prices vary).

5. Falafel Sandwich at Al-Quds Falafel

• Location: Jabal Amman in Amman

The debate over the origins of the beloved Middle Eastern staple, falafel, can get intense, but one thing is clear: a falafel sandwich is a go-to lunch option and a perfect snack on the streets of Amman. The best version, as is often the case with street food, can be found at Al-Quds Falafel, a small, impeccably clean eatery on Amman’s vibrant Rainbow Street. This pedestrian-friendly street runs from the First Circle to downtown Amman through the serene Jabal Amman area. Since 1966, Al-Quds Falafel has been perfecting its falafel sandwich, featuring freshly fried chickpea balls nestled between two toasted buns, accompanied by fresh tomatoes, pickled cucumbers, and a drizzle of spicy white garlic sauce, all for just JD0.5/US$0.71.

6. Mulukhiyah at Jordan Heritage

• Location: Al Weibdeh in Amman
• Reservations recommended

Mulukhiyah, a dark leafy green also known as jute mallow, is a traditional plant native to the Middle East, utilized in Arab cuisine since at least the 14th century. It gives its name to a beloved stew, though its slimy texture when cooked, reminiscent of okra, can be off-putting to some. Few eateries serve mulukhiyah; it's more commonly found in Jordanian homes as part of regular meals.

This is where Jordan Heritage restaurant in Amman’s Al Weibdeh neighborhood shines. Operated by Jordan Heritage, a nonprofit focused on preserving the country’s environmental, architectural, and cultural history through various mediums like research and documentaries, the restaurant aims to document and revive traditional Jordanian cuisine. In its charming courtyard adorned with twinkling lights, diners can savor the classic Ammani stew featuring finely chopped mulukhiyah (JD6.00/US$8.45), served with a side of vermicelli and rice, finished with a splash of fresh lemon juice.

Tip: To explore Jordan’s diverse regional flavors, try dishes like durzi tabbouleh (JD4.5/US$6.35), a garbanzo bean salad with pickled vine leaves from the Azraq wetlands, ekbab obeidat (JD5.50/US$7.75), a steamed mix of lamb and chicken with bulgur wheat and cardamom from Irbid, and haliva (JD4/US$5.64), a light turnover filled with artisanal Circassian cheese from Amman.

7. Knafeh at Habibah Sweets

• Location: Downtown Amman

No visit to Jordan is complete without savoring knafeh, a beloved dessert that beautifully balances sweet and salty flavors with layers of white cheese and syrup. Across the Levant, the recipes for this iconic treat differ as much as its spellings (including kunafeh, kanafeh, kunfah, and kunefe). In Amman, you'll find a Palestinian variation featuring special brined white cheese, known for its melt-in-your-mouth texture (typically Nabulsieh or Akkawi), soaked in fragrant rose-water syrup and sprinkled with pistachio shavings. Be sure to visit the renowned Habibah Sweets, a cherished establishment making knafeh in its original downtown location for over 70 years, conveniently situated near the Duke’s Diwan. As you wait in line—often stretching from the quaint alley to the bustling K. Faisal Street—you’ll need to choose between two types of knafeh: knishneh, with its crispy kadaif noodles, or naameh, which features a softer semolina dough. (Pro tip: You won't regret trying both!)