Everywhere you go, you’ll encounter traditional Breton music and dance.

It can feel a bit daunting to join the Bretons when the sound of bagpipes fills the air—usually, they form a circle, interlock pinkies, and dive into some traditional dancing, whether for a brief moment or an entire night.

However, it's not intimidating at all at Lorient’s Interceltic Festival.

This annual event attracts nearly a million visitors and features thousands of musicians and dancers from Celtic regions like Scotland, Ireland, and, of course, Brittany. It's a joyous celebration that welcomes everyone. As I moved from a street performance by Asturian musicians to a main stage showcasing a rising Breton band, I never expected to find myself locked hand-in-hand with strangers, joining a large circle of dancers effortlessly jumping from side to side.

Maybe it was the couple of local beers I enjoyed earlier with my moules frites (mussels and fries), or perhaps the musicians and onlookers patiently teaching the steps to newcomers. But even as a lifelong Parisian, I had never felt more in tune with the moment.

What makes traditional music and dance so significant in Brittany?

For those not from Brittany, it can be challenging to understand the immense importance of traditional singing and dancing in the region. They are prevalent—from Friday night performances at local pubs to large-scale music and dance competitions. Beyond the enjoyment, they have been crucial in helping the Bretons maintain their identity through the ages.

The roots of Breton music and dance trace back to the Middle Ages, deeply embedded in Celtic tradition. By the 14th century, local musicians known as sonneurs emerged, typically playing wind instruments like the bombard, an oboe variant, and the biniou, akin to bagpipes. Sonneurs would perform at various social and religious gatherings, including weddings and harvest celebrations, gradually becoming an integral part of daily Breton culture over the centuries.

By the 19th century, Brittany boasted a vibrant music and dance scene, prompting some intellectuals to theorize that these traditions were essential to Breton identity—this claim arose just as the French government intensified its crackdown on 'regional languages,' including Breton, which were banned in schools.

In the early 20th century, traditional music and dance began to decline among the Bretons. The region's flourishing culture, viewed with disdain by the central government, faced significant setbacks, a decline exacerbated by the aftermath of the wars.

However, a significant revival began in the 1950s as musicians and dancers rekindled their interest in Breton heritage and identity, sparking a 'cultural revolution.' Influential figures like Alan Stivell modernized traditional Breton songs, leading to the emergence of the bagad—a contemporary version of sonneurs playing in bands—and the fest-noz, a celebration aimed at recreating the joyful dancing events of the past century.

Coincidentally, this period also marked the resurgence of the Breton language. The national prohibition on regional languages was lifted in 1951, and the 1970s witnessed the establishment of organizations like Diwan, which operates bilingual French-Breton schools throughout the region.

Where to find traditional Breton music and dance today

In Brittany today, traditional singing and dancing are everywhere. These art forms have greatly evolved, often blending with modern styles like rock and electronic music, as well as incorporating global techniques. If you keep your eyes peeled, you'll find plenty of opportunities to experience Breton music and dance; nearly every town and village hosts local events featuring a bagad or a fest-noz, especially during the summer months.

Any occasion is a good excuse to pull out the bagpipes and dance. Check out the festivities for Bastille Day on July 14; you're likely to find an open-air dance, traditional singing, crêpe stands, and fireworks. The same goes for August 15, when coastal towns celebrate the sea (Fête de la Mer), typically with a local fest-noz.

It's worth stopping by the tourist office to see if a fest-noz is scheduled during your visit or if local bagad and dance groups have any regular performances. In Quimper, for instance, every Thursday evening in July and August, a free show called Derrière les Remparts is hosted by a bagad and a dance circle.

Various bands identifying as Celtic or Breton, such as the electro-trad group Herriwenn, Celtic punk rockers Les Ramoneurs de Menhirs, and rock’n’roll ensemble Soldat Louis, now flourish, performing at fest-noz, bars, festivals, and concert venues—so be sure to check their tour schedules.

The simplest way to dive into traditional music and dance in Brittany is to attend one of the many quintessential Breton festivals held throughout the year. Lorient’s Interceltic Festival is just one of the highlights. Other key events include the Cornouaille Festival in Quimper, showcasing Breton culture in all its forms—music, dance, costumes, food, drink, and even language.

In November, Rennes hosts the Yaouank music festival—the region's largest fest-noz—which blends Breton, world, and contemporary music; meanwhile, Tradi’Deiz in April draws thousands of professional dancers and musicians to parade through the streets. The century-old Festival of Gorse Flowers in Pont-Aven crowns a festival queen each year based on costume, dance, and musical talent, alongside numerous fest-noz and traditional music concerts.

Enjoying the music? Be sure to bring cash, as many artists will have albums and merchandise for sale. The moment you hear the first notes of a bombard or bagpipe from your speakers at home, you'll be transported back to the moment you locked pinkies with a stranger, kicked your legs, and jumped to the rhythm while the singer guided you through the beats. You might have felt a bit out of sync, but the experience is invaluable, especially when it comes to winning over the hearts of the Bretons.