Experience a Fresh Perspective on Bourgogne Through Its Emerging Winemaking Talent

Bourgogne is renowned for its wine, embodying the "Old World" charm and techniques that have established the benchmark for winemakers globally. However, a new generation of producers is crafting an exciting narrative, determined not to rely solely on their prestigious heritage. They aim to blend innovative ideas with the renowned Bourgogne terroir, ensuring that this historic region continues to offer enriching local experiences that tantalize the senses for years to come.

A Timeless Tradition

Millions of years ago, a vast lagoon transformed into the ribbons of limestone and marl that define Bourgogne’s unique subsoil today in central-eastern France. The minerals and microorganisms vary significantly from village to village, giving each of the 84 appellations its own unique character and story.

Bourgogne’s illustrious winemaking history stretches back to at least the second century AD. By the Middle Ages, Cistercian monks were already distinguishing quality levels between different plots, ultimately leading to the establishment of the national Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in 1936, which set the standard for regional wine classification and continues to define quality among Bourgogne vineyards to this day.

While Grand Crus rank among the world’s most coveted wines, they account for just one percent of the region’s production. Almost half of the output falls under the “Village Premier Cru” or “Village” categories, yet the majority—“Régionale” AOCs—often go unnoticed. These Régionale wine producers invite wine lovers to step off the beaten path and explore the diverse faces and flavors of these lesser-known vineyards.

Rediscovering Lost Heritage in Auxerre

We start in the Auxerre region, located about two hours south of Paris. Once considered one of France’s top wine regions, Auxerre suffered greatly from the invasive aphids during the “Great French Wine Blight,” leading to the destruction of every vineyard by the 19th century. However, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre made a remarkable recovery. Nestled alongside the renowned Chablis, these vineyards offer a hidden yet elite terroir that first captivated Edouard Lepesme.

After several years on the edge of the wine industry, Lepesme officially embarked on his journey into organic viticulture in 2010, receiving training in Bourgogne and abroad. Four years later, Domaine d’Edouard was established. This 35-acre winery, initially planted in the 1960s, was a pioneer in organic practices, and Lepesme was eager to uphold that tradition.

Today, his winery cultivates the region's primary grapes, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, while also growing a few others, such as César, a rare red grape unique to this part of Bourgogne. Whether focusing on classic varietals or single-plot innovations, Lepesme employs native yeasts and mainly neutral barrels, crafting a portfolio he describes as “fresh” and “fruity.” These qualities are present even in his Crémants de Bourgogne, a notably crisp sparkling wine from this region, featuring a balanced blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

For his still whites, Lepesme suggests pairing with gougère, a local cheese and choux pastry specialty. With his reds, Époisses, a strong, creamy cow’s cheese unique to the area, is a must-try. Among the diverse restaurants in Auxerre's historic center, Lepesme recommends the inventive, minimalist L’Asperule for a splurge. For a relaxed bistro lunch, L’Accroche is ideal, or enjoy a riverside dinner with live music at Cantina.

Don't miss a visit to the 9th-century Abbey of Saint-Germain between meals, where some of the oldest frescoes in France are on display. Meanwhile, at the Caves Bailly-LaPierre, you can sample a variety of Crémant de Bourgogne from an underground quarry. Those visiting in summer can also enjoy the Garçon La Note festival, featuring free outdoor concerts every evening.

A Glimpse into the Future in Hautes Côtes de Nuits

As you head southeast toward Dijon, most itineraries will suggest a stop in the Côte d’Or along the Route des Grands Crus to savor some of the world's most famous—and costly—red wines. For a delightful alternative, the hills of Hautes Côtes de Nuits provide a more personal and exceptional experience, away from the crowds and high prices.

At Domaine de Montmain’s 74 terraced acres, Mathieu Piécourt has a unique view over the valley below. From a remarkably young age, he defied expectations by rising from intern to owner. Now at thirty-two, he embraces his outsider identity, crafting wines that feel timeless, confidently rooted in tradition.

"Our wines haven't changed in fifty years. [Our approach] is not new, but today no one operates like us because they’ve shifted their philosophy," Piécourt explains, particularly noting the recent trend towards younger, natural-style wines. However, he emphasizes that Montmain's wines are undeniably natural. The winery’s elevation and the spacing between the rows facilitate airflow, reducing moisture and allowing growers to avoid pesticides.

Aiming to be fully organic by 2026 and biodynamic thereafter, Piécourt is keenly aware of climate change. If starting anew, he says he would consider planting only Gamay, which thrives in warmer conditions. "When I tell people this, they think I'm crazy because Bourgogne is renowned for Pinot Noir," he adds, unafraid to challenge the norm. "At my age, I have time to adjust my strategy if needed."

Currently, Domaine de Montmain produces seven wines from distinct plots, primarily emphasizing robust Pinot Noirs and vibrant Chardonnays, while also maintaining a steady output of fruity Gamay and aromatic Aligoté. What ties these small-batch, single-plot wines together is Piécourt’s commitment to drinkability. He aims to create high-quality wines accessible to everyone, encouraging enjoyment over elitism.

Piécourt loves to showcase his oldest bottles to help educate visitors on how his wines evolve with age, with some vintages dating back to the 1980s. He particularly recommends pairing his reds with spicy dishes and frequently hosts various pop-up events on-site, featuring a range of cuisines from tapas to Indian fare.

As part of the France Passion network, Domaine de Montmain invites RV travelers to camp overnight at their site. Just a three-minute drive away lies La Karrière, a former marble quarry that now features art installations, music festivals, and more. History enthusiasts can explore the 9th-century ruins of Saint-Vivant Vergy, once among the region's oldest and most ornate sites, or visit the fortified town of Beaune, famous for its vibrant Gothic Hôtel-Dieu and a labyrinth of underground wine cellars.

Building connections in the Côte Chalonnaise

Located just over 30 miles south of Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise has a winemaking history spanning more than a thousand years, yet remains underappreciated with no Grand Cru vineyards. In the quaint village of Moroges, Sandrine and Olivier Dovergne manage the 20 hilly acres of Domaine de la Luolle.

Similar to Lepesme and Piécourt, the story of the Dovergnes starts far beyond their vineyards. Feeling unfulfilled in their previous careers, the couple made a pact to pursue their dreams: Olivier would sail around the Atlantic, but only if Sandrine could join him with a selection of French wines, sharing a taste of home with everyone they met along the journey.

The couple was captivated by the way wine can bring people together over vast distances. After gaining experience in various roles within the wine industry, they began searching for a small vineyard. By 2016, fortune smiled upon them as Domaine de La Luolle became available, and they seized the opportunity.

"We were truly amazed by the range and diversity of wine options [in Bourgogne], considering there are only two primary grapes," Sandrine remarks. Taking over Luolle, they embraced a 55-year legacy of organic winemaking, rooted in the clay-rich terroir of Côte Chalonnaise.

What’s the outcome? The “Les Daluz” Chardonnay reveals distinct mineral and slightly saline notes, while the ruby-hued “Les Oiseaux Rares” Pinot Noir offers a delightful mix of baking spices and chocolate, each aged in French oak for a balanced finish. Their zero-dosage Extra Brut Crémants de Bourgogne—a remarkable sparkling wine, considering Côte Chalonnaise ranks just behind Auxerre in its production—along with the “Le Cloux” Coteaux Bourguignons, sourced from notably hilly vineyards, encapsulates the true essence of Bourgogne. By focusing primarily on two grape varieties, with a small inclusion of Gamay and Aligoté, the couple crafts a beautifully varied and expressive range of wines.

The Dovergnes are not resting on their laurels. With a passion for nature honed during their time at sea, they continue to embrace organic and biodynamic winemaking. They have launched Vins de Derriere, an innovative micro-vineyard behind their home, featuring grape varieties better suited for the warming climate. Sandrine has also crafted an immersive experience known as Ballade des Sens, allowing visitors to wander through the vines, engaging all their senses and refining their perception skills.

Explorers venturing further into Côte Chalonnaise can test their culinary skills at various restaurants that highlight local, seasonal dishes. Whether indulging in homemade foie gras in the charming medieval setting of Table de Chapaize or enjoying live music with a meal in Givry at Le Salon de Grégoire, delightful experiences await.

For those seeking a mix of relaxation and activity, France’s first bikeable greenway is the perfect solution. Located just outside Côte Chalonnaise, this peaceful route stretches over 40 miles of car-free pathways, passing by Roman architecture and Benedictine abbeys. Additionally, more vineyards, such as Domaine Ninot in Rully and Château de Garnerot in Mercurey, are ready to be explored once your cycling day concludes.

A premier way to experience Bourgogne

In total, Bourgogne boasts over 1,000 wineries, each reflecting the rich complexity of its terroir and the vibrant community here. Whether visitors wish to immerse themselves in the lively open-air festivals of summer, join in the autumn harvest, or seek peace during the quieter months, Bourgogne provides a wealth of experiences to choose from.

To assist with these overwhelming choices, the Bourgogne Wine Board has created The Bourgogne Road Trip, an engaging video series designed to inspire travelers and enhance their journey. By exploring off the beaten path, meeting passionate young winemakers, and experiencing the full spectrum of Bourgogne’s offerings, visitors can savor not just the region’s history, but its promising future as well.