Experience life as a feudal lord in a historic Japanese castle town

The final touch in transforming into a feudal lord is the precise placement of the traditional 'kabuto' helmet and the careful adjustment of its chin strap.

Simon Celestine, a tourist from France, arrived at Odawara Castle as a visitor, but for one day, he became the lord of one of Japan's most impressive feudal fortresses.

Located just 50 miles from Tokyo, Odawara is a captivating port town with a rich history, tied to the powerful Hojo clan, the legendary Fuma ninja, and the pivotal battle of 1590 that reshaped Japan.

Despite its historical significance, many foreign visitors pass through Odawara quickly on the bullet train, focused on Japan's main tourist route of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka.

With international tourist numbers now exceeding pre-pandemic levels, the Japanese government is eager to promote lesser-known yet equally fascinating destinations across the country.

Odawara was chosen as one of the first locations to benefit from government support aimed at promoting its unique heritage, with local tourism officials developing initiatives that highlight the town's strengths.

With its rich history and impressive castle, Odawara was a natural choice to offer visitors the chance to become the lord (daimyo) of the domain – complete with traditional costumes.

Naoya Asao, head of international promotion for the Odawara Tourism Association, shared with Dinogo Travel, 'We’re really hoping our campaign will put Odawara on the map and attract more visitors to stay overnight.'

'Odawara is often seen as just a stop on the way to popular spots like Hakone or the Izu Peninsula, but the town offers so much more. With its rich history, we believe that making visitors 'daimyo for a day' is a unique way to showcase what Odawara has to offer,' says Asao.

Celestine, 37, joined three friends for the curated experience, beginning with the group swapping their modern outfits for traditional attire.

Assisted by costume experts who typically dress actors for historical films and TV shows, the group first donned long, white undershirts, secured at the waist with a belt. Then, they slipped into baggy leggings that tightened over the shins before attaching guards made of iron splints connected by chain armor.

Each participant then had individual armored sleeves with colorful patterns strapped into place, followed by the attachment of the 'do' – the chest armor. Once the broad waist belt was in place, the modern-day warriors were handed their weapons.

The visitors were informed that the long katana, a symbol of power, was to be used for defeating enemies, while the smaller wakizashi should remain sheathed unless its owner commits a grave enough offense to warrant seppuku, the ritual self-disembowelment involving an L-shaped cut to the abdomen.

The instructor humorously remarked that he hoped the visitors' wakizashi swords would stay in their sheaths for the entire duration of their experience.

Once the visitors were adorned with the sleek, jet-black kabuto helmet, their transformation into feudal lords was complete. Now fully equipped, they were ready to rule over their domain.

As the four visitors stepped out of the center, they quickly became the center of attention, drawing intrigued looks from locals. Initially, their noble airs seemed lacking, but they soon embraced their roles. Crossing the castle's wide moat, they were greeted by re-enactors in authentic warrior armor from Japan's Warring States period, a reminder of the tumultuous 15th and 16th centuries.

One of Japan's most impressive and formidable castles, Odawara stands as a testament to the country's feudal might.

Nestled on a narrow plain between Sagami Bay and the steep foothills of Mount Fuji, Odawara controlled the vital roadways linking Kyoto, the ancient capital, to Edo, the precursor to modern Tokyo.

For centuries, rival clans vied for dominance over Odawara, until the Hojo family claimed it as the heart of their powerful domain, which spanned much of eastern Japan. The castle became the symbol of their unwavering authority and was never captured during battle throughout the 1500s.

The Hojo clan’s defenders were ultimately overwhelmed when Toyotomi Hideyoshi, leading an army of 250,000, laid siege to Odawara in 1590. After forcing the Hojo into surrender through starvation, Hideyoshi exacted his revenge by ordering the castle's complete destruction. Later reconstructions were frequently damaged by earthquakes, and in 1870, the Meiji government ordered the final demolition.

It wasn’t until 1960 that the iconic five-story donjon was rebuilt using reinforced concrete, and additional historic structures within the expansive 106-hectare castle park were restored to their former splendor, including fortified walls, guard towers, and an intricate series of defensive gates.

Crossing another moat and passing through a gate, Celestine and his fellow 'daimyo' entered a gravel courtyard, where they faced the impressive main gate of the castle, framed by the beauty of cherry trees in full bloom.

The visitors were welcomed by musicians playing traditional 'taiko' drums, 'shamisen' lutes, and 'shinobue' flutes, setting the stage for a dramatic performance that told a story of loyalty and vengeance, complete with sword fights, wall leaps, and acrobatic rolls performed by re-enactors.

Odawara is historically tied to the Fuma clan of ninja, fierce allies of the Hojo family. In 2019, a museum dedicated to the ninja opened on the castle grounds, where visitors can try their skills with traditional curved swords or even unconventional weapons, such as chopsticks.

The museum also seeks to challenge the popular myths about ninjas, showcasing their roles as spies and healers, as well as their reputation as mercenaries.

The innermost courtyard can only be reached by crossing a bridge over the moat, climbing steep steps, and passing through a heavy gate in a thick wall. By night, the towering donjon is bathed in light, its isolation heightened by yet another set of steep steps, emphasizing the castle's defensive strength.

The donjon features a small museum displaying local treasures such as beautifully preserved scrolls, kimonos, and swords. The 'daimyo' are escorted to a reception on the fifth floor, where they are presented with scrolls sealed by the Hojo clan. From the castle's balcony, they gaze over their lands while enjoying champagne.

The highest level of the castle hosts the 'Flying Monk,' who leads mindfulness classes. Tomomi Iwayama, who taught Zen meditation and mindfulness to global corporations online during the pandemic, is thrilled to return to in-person instruction.

Participants are invited to sit cross-legged and with a straight back on square cushions, focusing on deep breathing. Iwayama explains that with daily practice, even those with wandering minds can focus purely on breathing, achieving a relaxed mindfulness for up to 30 minutes.

The experience concludes with a lavish feast at a nearby restaurant, accessible via a traditional garden filled with moss, sculpted trees, and stone lanterns. The guests are greeted by kneeling geisha and can warm themselves by a sunken 'irori' hearth. The multi-course kaiseki meal features local delicacies like sashimi from nearby boats and wild mountain vegetables ('sansai').

While enjoying their meal and toasting with local sake, the elegantly dressed geisha perform dances, play the shamisen, and ensure that the daimyo’s cups are always full.

Sated and content, the daimyo return to the castle to spend the night on its top floor, just as the feudal lords of old did. It’s a time to savor the fleeting moments of nobility, as the next day they will return to their ordinary lives.

The 'Lord of the Castle' experience is available for booking through the official Odawara Tourism Association website.