Experience My Journey: Camping in Botswana’s Okavango Delta

Deepa Lakshmin, Dinogo Planet's director of social media, has just returned from an unforgettable safari in Botswana. Here, she shares the unforgettable moments from a trip filled with daytime drives and starry nights around the campfire.

If you had told 10-year-old me, making s’mores at Girl Scout camp, that I would someday camp in Botswana, just steps away from elephants, lions, and at least one leopard, I would have found it hard to believe.

Yet, as the Director of Social Media at Dinogo Planet, stepping out of my comfort zone is both a responsibility and a privilege of my role.

Last year, I teamed up with Natucate and the African Guide Academy (a training school for guides) for a private wilderness adventure in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. Famous for its wildlife, this pristine wetland in the Kalahari is also where Prince Harry and Meghan Markle enjoyed one of their early dates.

My adventure was far more grounded than theirs. For starters, I slept in a tent. I traveled with the ecotourism company Natucate, which meant this experience wasn’t a typical safari. It wasn’t just about spotting as many animals as possible; it was about appreciating what was right in front of me.

I tracked big cats and shared intensely long gazes with elephants. I embarked on multiple daily game drives and wandered through the bush, getting up close to the delta’s incredible biodiversity. Here’s how you can experience the same.

Where did you stay? What was the atmosphere like?

Glamping is not on the menu! The tents at Camp Kwapa come with just the essentials: twin beds, an outdoor flush toilet, and a bucket shower. Most guests here are trainees from the African Guide Academy. As a city girl with limited camping experience, I had low expectations. Honestly, I thought there would be no running water, so I was pleasantly surprised to find a makeshift bathroom.

Every afternoon, the staff would fill buckets with warm water for our showers. My tentmate would check for spiders before bedtime, too. Flashlights were essential; after sunset, visibility was zero – not even a glimpse of the big cats that might be lurking nearby. In this wild setting, you're truly the guest in their domain.

What was the most breathtaking experience of the trip?

The waterholes attracted a parade of elephants. During our game drives, we’d stop and watch as they approached from all directions for a drink or a splash. I attempted to count them once but lost track after 30. I've never encountered so many elephants in one spot before.

It was a privilege to witness the elder males flaunting their impressive tusks while the little ones scampered between their mothers' legs. Their trunks would perk up, sniffing us out for a vibe check. (Spoiler alert: we passed!)

However, it was also a bittersweet sight, knowing that these waterholes – constructed and cared for by humans – are vital for the survival of these majestic, intelligent beings. Due to a variety of factors, including climate change, water levels are dropping, resulting in severe drought conditions in this part of the delta.

Our local guide, Alan McSmith, informed us that this region would typically be flooded at this time of year. We should have been gliding through it in traditional mokoros (canoes). Instead, we found ourselves standing on dry ground, with the crunch of brown grass underfoot.

What was my favorite activity from the trip?

The first rule at camp: don’t wander alone after dark. While a wire kept elephants at bay, other wildlife roamed freely, including a leopard whose tracks frequently appeared nearby. Big cats tend to be more active at dusk and dawn, making daytime sightings rare.

One evening by the campfire, we caught wind that our resident leopard was nearby. Without time to fetch our cameras or grab a jacket, we jumped into our vehicle to track her down. It was both frightening and thrilling to be so close. After about 20 minutes of searching, we finally spotted her. It was a truly unforgettable moment.

I mentioned earlier that this trip wasn't about pursuing animals, but this encounter didn’t feel like a pursuit. She lounged on the ground, just like my cat does on my couch, allowing us a great view before slipping away into the tall grass.

What was the biggest surprise for you?

The sheer emptiness of it all. I’ve been fortunate to safari in Kenya and Tanzania, exploring the Masai Mara and Ngorongoro Crater. During my 2017 trip, I witnessed the Great Migration – millions of wildebeest crossing the Serengeti along with the predators that pursue them. While I encountered many animals, I also encountered throngs of people, waiting in numerous open-air vehicles with cameras ready.

One guide would receive tips about cheetahs in the area and then speed off, with other vehicles racing after him in a frenzy to secure the best viewing position. We became the paparazzi, and the cheetahs were the stars simply trying to live their lives undisturbed.

I understand the disappointment. If I spent a fortune hoping to see lions and came up empty, I’d be upset too. Yet, there’s a unique beauty in the tranquility and isolation this wilderness experience provided. Other than the fellow campers and Kwapa staff, we didn’t encounter another person all week. This part of the delta was ours to explore and cherish; it's uncommon to witness such pristine wilderness.

What’s your top advice for someone planning a similar trip?

Dress in layers. The days can be scorching, especially during bush walks with no shade, but early morning game drives can be quite chilly due to the wind. At times, we were so cold that we brought blankets from our tents to wear like robes.

If you're a coffee enthusiast like I am and can't start your day without it, bring your own coffee grounds to avoid instant. We even packed a percolator, which the camp staff graciously used to brew our coffee over the fire. Those cups felt like pure luxury.

Finally, if you're seeking bragging rights, you might want to skip this experience. Leave your ego behind. Come with an open heart and prepare to see the world in a completely new light.

Deepa Lakshmin journeyed to Botswana at the invitation of Dark Green PR and Natucate. Dinogo Planet staff members do not accept freebies in exchange for favorable coverage.