Experience the Allure of Croatia—Without the Crowds

With its stunning coastline and over 1,000 islands to discover, it’s no surprise that Croatia is at the top of everyone’s travel list. In 2023, the country welcomed 20.6 million tourists, marking a 9 percent increase from the previous year. Throughout my more than two dozen visits over the past 25 years, I’ve seen Croatia evolve into a premier tourist hotspot, making it trickier to find hidden gems, especially in peak season. However, even along the bustling Dalmatian Coast, you can still uncover lesser-known spots that add depth and enjoyment to your journey. Seek out distinctive local dining experiences, explore quieter beaches, and visit overlooked islands to craft your own adventure.

Dodge the summer crowds by planning your trip in May or October—the shoulder season has shifted away from June and September, particularly in Dalmatia. “September has become the go-to month for visitors, as travelers see it as the beginning of autumn,” shares Wanda S. Radetti, founder of Tasteful Croatian Journeys, who has over 30 years of experience in Croatian travel. “While evenings cool down, the Adriatic Sea still holds onto the warmth of summer.”

Explore Alternative Neighborhoods in Dubrovnik—Then Enjoy Nearby Beaches

“Croatia's popularity has made hidden gems harder to find, but they still exist,” says Ivan Vuković, a Dubrovnik-based tour guide. Gruž and Lapad offer a quieter experience compared to Dubrovnik’s Old Town, and the promenade linking these areas is filled with bars, bistros, and cafés. The Croatian coastline is dotted with pebble beaches; for those who prefer sandy shores, Srebreno Beach is just a short drive from the Old Town, while Šunj Beach on Lopud Island—reachable by ferry from Gruž—features shallow waters perfect for a laid-back summer swim. (Be ready for a 30-minute walk to reach the beach.)

“St. Pietro Island is a trendy new restaurant located on Supetar Island, near Cavtat, offering great lounge vibes,” Vuković shares. To truly escape the crowds, he recommends hiking from Cavtat to the Konavle region, where you can discover Pasjača, one of Europe’s most beautiful beaches, devoid of cell phone reception. Afterward, unwind at a local eatery like the family-run Konoba Vinica Monković, where you can relax by the River Ljuta. “Consider visiting us in the winter,” he suggests, noting that the Winter Festival features open-air concerts from early December to early January, allowing for mingling with locals and enjoying cooler weather with fewer tourists.

Leave Dubrovnik Behind and Journey North to the Pelješac Peninsula

Dubrovnik has been grappling with overtourism for years, surpassing Venice and Barcelona as the most visited city in Europe. To escape the tourist throngs, Tasteful Croatian Journeys suggests a trip an hour north to the Pelješac Peninsula. Here, you can embark on a boat tour through Mali Ston’s protected ecosystem and discover the ancient art of cultivating the region’s renowned oysters, which boast a unique flavor thanks to the mineral-rich freshwater from the nearby Neretva River. Pelješac is also celebrated for its grape production, with vineyards like Saints Hills and Villa Korta Katarina and Winery offering luxury accommodations and fine dining options.

The Tasteful Croatian Journeys team recommends Cavtat as an alternative to Dubrovnik: this charming coastal town, located just 12 miles south, features a picturesque harbor, a lovely promenade, and a blend of Renaissance and Gothic architecture. It also boasts a rich cultural heritage, including unique attractions like a seashell museum housing 2,500 different shell types. For a touch of quiet luxury, the Hotel Supetar in Cavtat, situated in a renovated 1920s villa, reopened in 2022 as a five-star boutique heritage property.

Seek Out Connections with Local People

“In my experience, the moments that stay with you while traveling often involve forming friendships and feeling connected to a place,” says Zrinka Jelavić, a Dubrovnik resident and founder of Tailored Croatia, which specializes in personalized local experiences. Guided by this philosophy, her company crafts experiences tailored to individual interests. “[One of] our clients expressed a desire to explore Croatian art, so we organized a tour that included a meeting with a local artist in the charming town of Grožnjan in Istria, known for its artistic community,” Jelavić explains. Guests were invited into the artist’s home and gallery for an intimate conversation about his life and work. “The encounter concluded with hugs, exchanged contact information, and promises to stay in touch long after they left Croatia.”

Opt for Quieter Towns Instead of Busy Cities

In Istria—a heart-shaped northern peninsula jutting into the Adriatic Sea—the coastal cities of Pula and Rovinj attract the majority of overnight guests. Instead, venture into Istria’s tranquil interior to uncover truffle-rich forests and medieval hilltop towns like Motovun and Grožnjan. Tasteful Croatian Journeys recommends the stylish Roxanich Design Hotel and Winery near Motovun, and nearby Stanzia Vinella offers modern comforts in a 400-year-old farmhouse, where guests can pick their own vegetables from the garden. Exploring local markets provides a cultural education, allowing you to engage with locals and discover the region's agricultural heritage.

On Saturdays, visit the Mini Farmers’ Market in Vrsar Old Town, where you can sample and purchase local products directly from producers; or head inland to the Summer Market in Pićan for a variety of offerings from local farms. “One of my favorite travel activities is visiting farmers’ markets, and Croatia has many to explore,” shares Tia Lovisa Moreira, vice president of Tasteful Croatian Journeys. She suggests that travelers planning a longer stay in Croatia consider renting a villa or luxury apartment with a kitchen. For outdoor enthusiasts, Istria’s interior presents pristine nature with hiking and biking trails, including a trail that offers views of Buzet’s medieval town alongside the Mirna River.

Small rural establishments provide genuine experiences and a chance to support the local community: Toklarija, a slow food restaurant run by a father-son duo in an old olive mill in the Buzet region of Istria (known as the “city of truffles”), offers an intimate dining experience focused on seasonal local products with a menu that changes every few weeks. At Casa Matiki, a delightful farmhouse near the village of Žminj, you can learn to make fuži (traditional homemade Istrian pasta) or craft delicious jams from the orchard’s bountiful harvest. Istria is rich with culinary adventures: embark on a truffle hunt with Miro Tartufi and take a cooking class with EatIstria at a charming farm and olive grove that EatIstria founder Goran Zgrablić transformed into a semi-open cooking studio. “We offer classes in both traditional and modern Istrian cuisine, immersing our guests in Istrian culture and life, making them feel as if they are visiting a friend’s home,” explains Nikola Pezić, manager of EatIstria.

Discover Lesser-Known Islands

No trip to Croatia is complete without exploring a few islands. In Kvarner Bay, the island of Lošinj is celebrated as a wellness retreat, thanks to its exceptional air quality and 2,600 hours of sunshine each year. The town of Mali Lošinj is home to the Museum of Apoxyomenos, dedicated to a bronze statue of a young athlete, Apoxyomenos, which was retrieved from the sea in 1997 after nearly two millennia underwater. On Lošinj, villas associated with the luxurious five-star Boutique Hotel Alhambra are ideal for family gatherings, including Villa Sea Princess Nika, a seven-suite villa offering views of ancient pines and the serene Čikat Bay.

Further along the coast near Zadar, the islands of Pag and Dugi Otok provide a variety of unforgettable experiences. Famous for its unique award-winning sheep’s milk cheese, Paški sir (Pag cheese), Pag inspired my debut novel, The Cheesemaker’s Daughter. Tour a cheese factory like Sirana Gligora or Paška Sirana to explore the island’s cheesemaking heritage, and savor Pag’s exquisite cuisine at the Michelin-starred Restaurant Boškinac, renowned for its innovative takes on traditional dishes. (You can also enjoy a stay in Boškinac’s boutique accommodations.) The island's rich history is reflected in the olive groves of Lun, home to some of the oldest olive trees worldwide, while the Gallery of Pag Lace highlights the island’s needlepoint lacemaking tradition, which was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2009.

Dugi Otok, or “Long Island,” features Telaščica Nature Park, and the nearby Kornati National Park showcases some of the most stunning natural landscapes in coastal Croatia—including 89 islands, islets, and reefs teeming with biodiversity—as well as striking cliffs known as “crowns,” which are part of a major tectonic fault line that shapes the unique geological scenery. Villa Nai 3.3 on Dugi Otok hosts an annual event between late September and early October, allowing guests to join local farmers in a traditional olive harvest, immersing them in the island’s culture. The harvested olives are processed in the hotel’s modern mill on the same day, and you can take home a souvenir bottle of the oil.