Experiencing Life on a Nile Cruise

The Nile River offers a diverse selection of cruise options: from large tourist boats and mid-sized hotel ships to luxurious vessels adorned with stunning decor and equipped with air-conditioning—some even feature rooftop pools. These cruises typically traverse the route between Luxor and Aswan over three to four nights, often including land excursions that may extend to Cairo. However, my friends and I sought a more immersive experience on the river, something intimate—akin to the wooden boats Cleopatra might have sailed. That’s why we chose a dahabiya for our Nile adventure.

A dahabiya provides a wonderful opportunity to explore the river and its scenic banks, as long as you’re open to sacrificing some of the upscale luxuries for a more authentic, rustic feel.

What exactly is a dahabiya?

The term dahabiya comes from the Arabic word for "gold," emphasizing its historic royal connections. These wooden sailboats, featuring two decks and shallow hulls, have served travelers on the Nile since the 19th century, inspired by ancient designs that date back thousands of years.

For our Nile adventure, my friends and I selected Nour El Nil, a company established over a decade ago that operates seven uniquely designed dahabiyas with striking red-and-white sails. This venture was created by three partners: a Parisian interior designer responsible for the decor, a businessman from Mexico, and an Egyptian sailor who manages the boat construction.

Each boat boasts 8 to 12 cabins, accommodating 16 to 24 guests. They primarily rely on wind power for sailing, using a small tugboat when the winds are calm—something we encountered frequently during our journey.

Nour El Nil is recognized as a luxury operator, offering a unique experience that blends comfort with adventure, attracting travelers like me who seek a more rugged exploration of the Nile.

The luxury lies in the intimate small-ship experience, where guests dine together at a long table on the open deck, call on one of the 13 crew members for refreshments, dock at historic sites inaccessible to larger vessels, and explore ancient ruins alongside knowledgeable guides.

The experience on board

We were a group of five couples celebrating a friend's birthday. Our vessel, the 12-cabin Adelaïde, hosted 12 additional travelers along with us.

Much of our time was spent relaxing on the vibrant, fabric-clad chairs, sofas, and daybeds on the shaded open deck, adorned with chandeliers for a touch of elegance. Unlike traditional hotel ships with enclosed dining rooms, this deck served as our dining area and lounge, offering stunning views, gentle breezes from ceiling fans, and opportunities for conversation, reading, or playing games like Scrabble and Hearts with fellow travelers. For me, it was the perfect spot to unwind in a hammock, daydreaming about Agatha Christie’s Death on the Nile (written at the historic Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan) while crafting backstories for our diverse group of passengers from the United States, Germany, France, Poland, and Brazil.

All cabins are located on the lower deck, showcasing soft white linens, chandeliers, and classic nautical artwork, complete with sliding shuttered windows and mirrored bathrooms reminiscent of maritime facilities (the showers lack curtains or doors, resulting in a wet bathroom). The boat also offers two "panoramic suites," each featuring floor-to-ceiling windows and an indoor sitting area, though private balconies are absent. Portable air-conditioning units provide cooling, but they are turned off at night when the main generator is cut to conserve fuel, while ceiling fans and lights remain operational on a separate system.

The sense of place was ever-present. Our Egyptian crew, dressed in colorful galabiyas, occasionally struggled with English but always made an effort to understand our needs. The fabric on deck, slightly dusty and weathered, blended seamlessly with the desert hues. In contrast, the lush riverbanks and mangroves provided a vibrant backdrop as we enjoyed cocktails, observing village life unfold: water buffaloes wading in the river, fishermen casting lines from small boats, and farmers navigating carts drawn by donkeys. At times, the calls to prayer echoed from nearby minarets.

You knew mealtime was approaching when a crew member strolled around the boat ringing a small bell. We enjoyed family-style dining at a table adorned with beautiful textiles and pottery, featuring a delectable menu based on fresh ingredients sourced from local farmers and fishermen along our route. One day it might be lamb, another day roasted ducks or fried Nile perch. A variety of tasty vegetable stews, such as eggplant, okra, or zucchini, accompanied our meals, along with staples like tahini, french fries, and flatbread.

All meals were included in the trip cost, though alcoholic beverages were extra. However, it remained quite affordable: a gin or vodka tonic made with local spirits cost less than $2.50, while a bottle of local wine was around $13 (or $19.50 for a bottle imported from South Africa).

Another great deal was massages, available for approximately $44, offered by a crew member in the ship's rarely used indoor lounge on the cabin deck.

Exploring ancient sites and engaging in shoreside activities

While enjoying a luxurious boat experience is delightful, a trip to Egypt naturally calls for exploring ancient historical sites and gaining insights. Nour El Nil employs knowledgeable Egyptologists who offer small-group tours with expertise. For English speakers, we had Adel Abu ElHagag, a hieroglyphics expert eager to teach us to identify symbols, including those for Cleopatra.

Unlike hotel ships that stick to a fixed route, often stopping at the same sites at scheduled times, our dahabiya cruise was more spontaneous, allowing us to visit both iconic and off-the-beaten-path locations. Our small vessel could dock by a tree, enabling unique shoreside exploration beyond typical river cruise experiences. With no printed itinerary, each day felt adventurous as the crew assisted us in navigating planks or climbing dirt hills, and we occasionally traversed across two other Nour El Nil boats traveling together in a convoy.

For example, standard Nile cruises typically bypass El Kab, home to vividly painted tombs and temples where Adel interpreted hieroglyphics that narrated the life stories of nobles and priests. He remarked, "It’s like buying confession," referring to the artistic representations dating from 1550 to 1050 B.C.E. "What did you do in your life? Did you look at your neighbor’s wife?" We also visited significant sites like the temple dedicated to the falcon god Horus in Edfu.

Many of my friends considered swimming in the Nile a highlight of the dahabiya cruise—a unique experience not available on larger river ships. However, I was too much of a germophobe to partake in that.

One magical moment occurred one evening when about 15 of us passengers disembarked at a narrow stretch of the Nile near the temple of Gebel el-Silsila, famous for its sandstone quarry that supplied much of the stone for various temples and tombs we would see during our journey. We wandered through a dusty brick village and ascended into a stunning landscape of towering sand dunes to catch the sunset. Biblical tales flashed through my mind, even though our trek of a few miles only crossed a small section of the Nubian Desert, not the Sinai. The remote setting was breathtaking in its simplicity, especially as the sun—a fiery orange sphere—sank below a distant dune. This is the true essence of cruising the Nile.

How to make a reservation

Nour El Nil is among the few companies providing a dahabiya experience on the Nile. Their seven boats accommodate between 16 to 24 passengers. Amenities such as Wi-Fi, meals, and shore excursions are included in the package, while alcohol and gratuities for the crew are extra (I ended up spending about $140 on tips).

Additional choices

Cairo-based Nile Dahabiya Boats operates four boats that accommodate 10 to 15 passengers, offering three- or four-night routes between Esna and Aswan, with double occupancy rates starting at $360 per person.

Luxor and Aswan Travel features 11 dahabiyas, with prices beginning at $835 per person for a three-night cruise.