Experiencing the journey from the US to Hong Kong during the pandemic

A few months ago, I flew from New York City, where I had been visiting my partner and siblings, back to my hometown of Hong Kong.

The last time I was in the US was in January, just before the first confirmed Covid-19 case appeared in Seattle. At that point, the virus was starting to spread along the West Coast, but the WHO hadn't yet declared it a global pandemic.

By October 2020, the US had surpassed 210,000 Covid-related deaths, the highest death toll of any country worldwide.

Hong Kong had banned travelers from the US, but as a resident, I was allowed to return under the condition that I undergo a mandatory 14-day quarantine at a government-approved hotel. I had to select a hotel from a list of 17 options and pay for it myself.

The Hong Kong Department of Health has classified countries like the US, Pakistan, India, South Africa, the UK, and Russia as 'high risk.' Travelers from these nations are required to present several documents upon arrival, including a hotel booking, a negative nucleic acid test result taken within 72 hours of departure, a signed report from the testing lab, and certification from the clinic or lab verifying its government accreditation.

After hours of online research, calling clinics, and seeking advice from friends and family, I located a hospital familiar with Hong Kong's specific travel requirements. I arranged a virtual consultation with a doctor who gave me the go-ahead to schedule my PCR test. This doctor would later authenticate and stamp the necessary documents for my return flight.

72 hours before departure

When I arrived at the Manhattan hospital for my test, I was directed to a makeshift 'testing center.' A nurse, already expecting me, walked me through the process and assured me I'd receive my results within 24 to 48 hours. Then, without much notice, she swiftly inserted a long cotton swab into my right nostril, twisted it for seven seconds, and placed the sample into a plastic vial.

I was in and out of the hospital in under five minutes. Since I had purchased travel insurance with Atlas America beforehand, I didn’t have to pay anything out of pocket. Just twelve hours later, I received the results—negative for SARS-COV-2.

Flight day

Terminal 8 at JFK Airport, once a bustling hub for business travelers, students, and tourists heading to all corners of the globe, was eerily empty on the day of my departure, August 31.

At Cathay Pacific’s check-in desk, there were more staff behind the counters than passengers in front of them. Everyone was wearing surgical masks, and some also had goggles. A staff member greeted me before I could even reach the counter to check my documents. My heart raced, worried I might have missed something crucial and be denied boarding.

Since the onset of the pandemic, Cathay Pacific has drastically cut back on its flights from the US to Hong Kong. I was booked on the sole direct flight that day. Unlike most travelers, who were taken to the Asia World-Expo Center for mandatory testing, passengers on my flight were directed to Terminal 2 of Hong Kong International Airport – a terminal that, pre-pandemic, was exclusively for Asia-bound flights.

Hong Kong’s Department of Health staff led us through a series of stations where we filled out forms, received wristbands with tracking devices, and performed a self-administered test.

Because our flight arrived in the afternoon, we were able to wait for our test results at a government-subsidized hotel. Those arriving in the morning, however, had to wait for their results at the airport, sometimes for up to eight hours.

Boarding and flight experience

There were eight airport staff stationed at the security checkpoint, but only two passengers passing through. Before the pandemic, security screenings at JFK would take around 20 to 30 minutes, but this time, the entire process took less than three minutes.

An unsettling silence filled the corridors leading to the boarding gates. Duty-free shops were all shut, with only one or two coffee shops and bookstores open. The sound of my footsteps echoed off the cold steel walls.

As we boarded the aircraft, a crew member took our temperatures. I counted just 13 passengers in total, meaning the Airbus 350-1000 was at only 3% capacity. With so few people, each Economy class passenger had an entire row to themselves. Before takeoff, the captain announced that everyone would need to complete a digital health declaration form.

Onboard, flight attendants were fully masked and wore protective glasses, maintaining a safe distance from passengers. The bathrooms were sanitized every hour, and bottles of water were distributed just as often. Each passenger received two hot meals, along with the usual snacks – including my favorite, Cup Noodles – available upon request.

Arrival in Hong Kong

As the plane touched down in Hong Kong, I felt the familiar rush of relief and excitement that always comes with returning home, despite the uncertainty that the next 14 days would bring.

At the airport, signs directed travelers from high-risk countries to a testing station in Terminal 2. Along the way, airport security checked our health declaration forms, making sure all information – like local ID numbers, phone numbers, and hotel quarantine details – was correctly filled out. Each passenger was given a personalized QR code to smoothly pass through each checkpoint.

A member of the Department of Health called me to verify that my phone number was working, confirming that authorities could reach me during quarantine. Another staff member then attached a secure wristband with a tracker, which linked to an app called 'Stay At Home' that I was asked to download.

Each passenger on my flight received a self-test kit and was directed to a private booth to provide a saliva sample. The instructions, printed on leaflets, guided us step by step – from how to properly produce 'deep throat saliva' (by making a 'kuuragh' sound) to cleaning and sealing the sample containers. Once we finished our tests, we collected our luggage and were escorted to a government-subsidized hotel for a one-night stay.

The hotel was spotless, and both dinner and breakfast were provided free of charge. At 10 a.m. the following day, I received a call from the Department of Health informing me that I had tested negative for the coronavirus and was free to make my way to the hotel I had booked for the remainder of my quarantine.

To my surprise, there were taxis waiting outside the quarantine hotel. The drivers didn't seem concerned about the potential risk of carrying the virus. I hopped into one and made my way across the harbor to my hotel in Causeway Bay. With the windows down, I relished the final moments of being 'outside'—the Hong Kong humidity and sunshine warming my skin.

At the hotel

My room at the Park Lane Hotel was 340 square feet, equipped with all the standard features of a four-star hotel: a flat-screen TV, a large desk, a reading chair, an empty mini-fridge, water bottles, and both a bath and shower.

There was just enough space around my bed to stretch out and do some light exercises. I had a view of Victoria Park, the green heart of the bustling commercial district below. Like most high-rise buildings in Hong Kong, my windows were securely locked for safety.

Certain rules were strictly enforced. Throughout my quarantine, no one was allowed to enter or leave my room. Family and friends could drop off items at reception, but hotel staff would bring them to my door. Everything from food and water to fresh sheets and towels was left outside – I wasn’t permitted to have any direct contact with anyone.

As part of the hotel package, I received breakfast and coffee every morning. For the rest of my meals, I relied on Deliveroo or had family and friends drop off food at the reception for me.

During the first few days, while adjusting to jet lag, I spent the early mornings watching the sunrise and observing people gradually trickling into the park. A dance troupe rehearsed the same routine daily, and a group of elderly men practiced tai chi in the park’s far corner. With most schools still closed, children spent their afternoons playing on the grass.

There’s no place like home

Hong Kong was starting to recover after the government imposed strict lockdown measures to curb a third wave of infections. Being confined and experiencing the city from a single perspective gave me the chance to notice details I might have otherwise missed. I felt fortunate to be in the situation I was.

Throughout the two weeks, I made a conscious effort to maintain a routine – moving my body, stimulating my mind, and staying connected with the outside world through calls with friends and family. I was sent coloring books and puzzles to pass the time, and I listened to podcasts while slowly working my way through a few books.

However, to romanticize the quiet moments of quarantine would be to overlook how much the pandemic is both a mental and physical struggle. There were moments when I felt out of control – like not being able to cook for myself or manage my food portions without wasting.

In line with strict government rules, all my meals were delivered in single-use plastic, and over time, I became more paranoid about the waste I was generating. Each afternoon, I received a “wellness call” from the hotel manager. While I appreciated the check-ins, even he couldn’t ease my concerns about the environmental impact.

Journaling became a cathartic and mindful outlet for me, as did talking for hours with friends and keeping up with writing and other creative projects. Two days before my release, I was sent another self-test kit and received a negative result. On my final day, I got a text from the Department of Health, and at 11:59 p.m., I was allowed to leave my room. At the check-out counter, I saw a familiar face – a woman who had been on my flight from New York, it felt like ages ago.

I’m the first among my friends in Hong Kong to experience hotel quarantine, but with the holiday season approaching, I’m sure I won’t be the last. While it had its challenges, I was fortunate to be in a comfortable space, and thanks to technology, I never felt truly alone.

Despite the whirlwind process, I’m thankful that the Hong Kong government is taking extensive measures to ensure the safety of its residents. Even as we approach the possible onset of a 'fourth wave' of infections, I feel that I am in one of the safest places on earth.