Explore My Journey: A peaceful off-peak road trip along the breathtaking Breton coast of France

French author Julien Marsault recently embarked on an off-season journey along the Brittany coast in northwestern France. He shares the sights and activities of a leisurely road trip filled with wildlife observation, delectable seafood, and refreshing coastal strolls.

Being a freelancer can be challenging. In late September, I felt the need for a getaway. My partner couldn’t take an entire week for a trip abroad, so we opted for a quick three-day, two-night escape nearby, delving deeper into the region we've called home for nearly two years. Our aim: to immerse ourselves in nature, savor delicious cuisine, and enjoy the serenity of the Breton coast.

Where did you stay? What was the atmosphere like?

We spent a night in the charming harbor town of Paimpol after an afternoon exploring the stunning Bréhat, also known as the 'Island of Flowers.' Even though spring felt far away, the area beautifully blended tranquility with splendor. It reminded us a bit of Scotland, with its capricious weather, serene harbors, and sandy beaches leading to dramatic red cliffs. Visiting in the off-season let us stroll without crowds and savor a warm cup of coffee in one of the nearly empty village squares.

The following day, we drove an hour to Perros-Guirrec, where we would spend the night. We enjoyed a delightful morning wandering along the breathtaking pink rocks of Ploumanac'h beach before dining at a Breton eatery: the Crêperie des Flots.

What was your favorite activity on the trip?

The highlight of our journey was a boat tour of the Sept Îles archipelago (€50 for two). Despite the overcast skies, we set sail for nearly three hours to discover the world of Northern Gannets, affectionately known as 'Les fous de bassan' – a bird famous for its fishing skills. This nature reserve is truly a marvel, and if you're as fortunate as we were, you might spot a seal lounging lazily on its rock.

What was the best thing you ate?

After our visit to the Sept Îles archipelago, we stopped by Le Bleu Marin, a charming seafood restaurant in Perros-Guirrec. It’s hard for me to resist the fresh and high-quality seafood that Brittany offers during such excursions. After a bit of searching on Google Maps (years of practice have taught me well), reserving a table for two was a breeze, and the service was outstanding (the perks of off-season travel). We enjoyed a delightful array of shrimp, crabs, oysters, and, most importantly, a crisp bottle of white wine to celebrate the day in style (€60-70 for two).

What was the most surprising aspect of your trip?

It might seem trivial, but as an avid cyclist, I was delightfully surprised by how affordable and easy it was to get around by car.

A close friend lent us her car, and here, you don’t need a robust SUV; the roads are generally well-maintained, the speed limit is 110 km/h, and Brittany has no tolls (it’s the only region in France without motorways). This trip also introduced me to an online map provided by the government that shows fuel prices based on your location, a great way to save some money.

Finding parking in Perros-Guirrec was quite easy. Sometimes it can be tricky in these small coastal towns, but this made us feel completely free to explore without constantly worrying about expensive fines.

What was the most hidden gem of an activity you experienced?

We wrapped up our trip with a relaxing hike in the Monts d'Arrée, located just under 100 kilometers from Perros-Guirec, before making the two-hour drive back to Rennes. This area is far less touristy than the Breton coast, but off-season, this mountain range provides a perfect chance to enjoy utter tranquility amidst the beautiful moors and rocky scenery. Unfortunately, the region faced a devastating fire in 2022, yet it still boasts its beloved landscapes and stunning forests. Whether in Brittany or beyond, if nature enriches your life, be sure to give back by caring for it.

What was the most useful item you packed?

Definitely my pair of German army trainers. They’re lightweight, exceptionally comfortable, durable, and have been a staple in my wardrobe for nearly eight years, costing me under €30 (though they’re pricier now). Originally designed for the German army and developed by Adidas, this vintage style gained popularity after Belgian designer Martin Margiela used it as inspiration for his Replica shoes in the early 2000s.

I take them on many adventures, both in France and abroad. Brittany is no exception, and the region’s unpredictable weather makes a versatile pair essential, especially for long walks. Plus, they look great even with a dressier outfit, like during our dinner at Le Bleu Marin.