Exploring Dubrovnik Away from the Crowds—Even in Peak Season

We were uncertain about how our trip would unfold: visiting Dubrovnik in July, the peak of tourist season, with a toddler in tow? It sounded like we’d be navigating through a sea of Game of Thrones fans in the Old Town, using our stroller as a barrier.

Thanks to some wonderful hotels, the warm hospitality of Croatians (who were exceptionally accommodating with children), and a visit to local spots that help avoid the tourist throngs, our trip to Croatia’s coast was unforgettable. Here are four tips for maximizing your experience in Dubrovnik, no matter the season.

1. Don’t hesitate to invest in a hotel close to Old Town.

There’s no better place to call home than the Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik—a historic gem (est. 1913) just a five-minute stroll from Old Town. You’ll enjoy its prime location, serene atmosphere, and outstanding service, all at rates that are surprisingly reasonable. (Consider $300-$400 per night compared to $1,000 for similar accommodations elsewhere in Europe.)

As you enter, floor-to-ceiling windows reveal breathtaking views of the Adriatic. The hotel is divided into two sections—one modern and sleek, the other a charming, traditional wing—and the sea-view rooms feature lovely terraces perfect for enjoying a leisurely day (maybe with a bottle of Croatian wine in hand).

It’s great to see how accommodating it is for kids. They can freely play, and the locals seem to embrace it as just part of life.

Notable guest: The Prime Minister of Croatia. During our visit, a new bridge connecting Croatia’s mainland to the Peljesac peninsula opened, paving the way for Croatia's inclusion in the Schengen area in 2023.

Situated about a mile from the western edge of Old Town, Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik perches on a 90-foot cliff right by the Adriatic Sea. This five-star boutique hotel was fully renovated in 2019 and now offers a stylish atmosphere that attracts a youthful, trendy crowd.

What really stood out to me? The pebbly public beach where locals and hotel guests mingle, along with a private area equipped with lounge chairs, umbrellas, and one of the hotel’s bars. Nestled beneath the cliffs, this spot is a favorite hangout for local boys showing off their bravery by leaping off cliffs that reach heights of 20 to 40 feet into the water. I didn’t take the plunge, but it was a thrill to watch.

Key takeaway: Even in late September, daytime temperatures can reach the high 70s, so it’s best to explore Old Town either early in the morning or later in the evening.

2. Explore the Elaphite Islands.

Croatia is all about the sea and the joy of being by the water. During the lazy summer days, it felt like everyone was lounging by a pool, at a beach club, or cruising between islands.

Thanks to Adriatic Luxury Hotels (where we stayed), we arranged for a full-day boat charter to explore the Elaphite Islands, a picturesque archipelago northwest of Dubrovnik. You can also catch a ferry to the islands of Koločep, Lopud, and Suđurađ.

This was definitely a trip highlight: Some islands feature beach clubs for a full day of relaxation or a quick meal, while others are known for fantastic restaurants right at the dock. We enjoyed lunch at a charming eatery on Lopud, Restaurant Dubrovnik. (We savored plenty of seafood during our stay, and a fun fact is that many restaurants are named Dubrovnik.) The fish was incredibly fresh—simply grilled—and truly unforgettable.

3. Be sure to visit the Peljesac Peninsula.

A one-hour drive from the heart of Dubrovnik leads you to the Peljesac Peninsula, home to the new bridge, beautiful beaches, wineries, and oyster farms. This is the getaway for locals looking to escape the summer crowds. It feels less touristy, making it the ideal spot for a future trip; start in Dubrovnik, then unwind for a week on the Peljesac Peninsula.

4. Spend some time near the airport—really!

I've visited Croatia numerous times but only recently discovered the village of Cavtat, just 15 minutes from the international airport. You can easily reach Cavtat from Old Town by bus or water taxi in about 20 minutes for around 18 euros. The bay is filled with stunning yachts and boats, while the waterfront promenade is adorned with palm trees, churches, monuments, and outdoor dining spots. It offers a relaxed yet sophisticated vibe. Some have likened it to “St. Tropez without the crowds,” but Cavtat has its own unique charm.

We explored the newly renovated Hotel Supetar Cavtat located in the town’s historic center. Housed in a charming 1920s villa, it features just 16 uniquely designed rooms. The restaurant, aptly named Restaurant, boasts an outdoor terrace with views of the water and a nearby church. The dishes are paired with exceptional local Croatian wines! We enjoyed one of our best meals here: incredible swordfish carpaccio, a 24-day aged beef filet, and homemade breads and butters, all sourced locally. I often dream about renting the entire hotel for a grand celebration.

Getting there: United offers nonstop flights (approximately 8 hours) from Newark-EWR to Dubrovnik until late October.

Told to Laura Dannen Redman.