Exploring Greece Beyond the Tourist Path

A picturesque getaway in Greece is more popular than ever. The Mediterranean hotspot has already exceeded pre-pandemic visitor numbers, with over 32.7 million international arrivals in 2023 compared to 31.3 million in 2019. Fitch Ratings predicts this number could rise to 34.5 million in 2024, raising concerns about overtourism.

While many travelers flock to the historic sights of Athens, the iconic cave homes of Santorini, and the vibrant nightlife of Mykonos, there’s so much more to discover in Greece. It doesn’t mean you should skip these beloved destinations; rather, there are smarter ways to experience them. For instance, try to avoid the peak summer crowds. Battling heat while navigating ancient sites or elbowing your way to capture Santorini’s renowned sunsets isn't enjoyable. Additionally, giving these popular spots some space means a better experience for you and for those in the tourism sector—hoteliers, restaurant workers, and shopkeepers can serve you more attentively. Traveling during the shoulder seasons also extends the tourism period, which translates into increased earnings for hospitality staff and local businesses that are vital to Greece’s tourism economy.

Beyond the popular trio, numerous islands and mainland locations attract fewer visitors and rely on essential tourist spending. This includes culinary gem Lesvos and the breathtaking Thassos in the less-frequented North Aegean, as well as the charming mountain villages of Epirus in northwestern Greece. By choosing these destinations, you'll uncover hidden treasures while also supporting the local economy. Here’s how to savor all the wonders of Greece without the throngs.

Discover Athens the right way

Experiencing the architectural wonder of the fifth-century Parthenon perched atop Athens’s Acropolis hill is truly a once-in-a-lifetime event. While most tourists tend to linger around the ancient landmarks and a few notable museums, like the treasure-laden Acropolis Museum and the National Archaeological Museum, once you've soaked up the cultural highlights, take a stroll or hop on the Attiko Metro to vibrant neighborhoods nearby where you’ll likely find fewer, if any, other visitors.

Refresh yourself at the beach

Despite the challenging traffic, uneven sidewalks, and rising rents due to the Airbnb boom, I can’t picture living anywhere but the Greek capital. Athenians know how to enjoy life, and I believe it’s one of the safest cities globally. Residing along the southern coast of Athens gives me easy access to some of the city’s finest beaches. One of my favorite spots is the sparkling Vouliagmeni Bay. In the summer, the sandy crescent beach attracts sunbathers. Relax on a sun lounger, gather friends for beach volleyball, or splash around with the kids in the shallow waters. As night falls, the glow of super-yacht lights reflects on the natural harbor, lined with upscale seafood restaurants and cozy café-bars.

Plan your visit during the off-season

As summer rolls in, I generally steer clear of the city center. The soaring temperatures in July and August make the crowded, concrete-filled downtown nearly intolerable. Athens, the first European city to appoint a Chief Heat Officer, who also serves as Global Chief Heat Officer for U.N. Habitat and the Arsht Rock Resilience Center, faced a record heatwave in the summer of 2023. The Acropolis even closed during peak heat hours for visitor safety. I found myself retreating indoors, reluctantly depending on air conditioning.

If you can, time your Athens adventure between November and February, which is the city’s off-season. During this period, hotel prices drop significantly, ancient sites and museums are nearly vacant, and the weather is generally pleasant. It can get chilly and rainy, so dress accordingly. This is also the best time to truly experience Athenian life, as locals are out enjoying themselves at cafés, socializing in wine bars, and dining late into the evening. Treat yourself to an espresso freddo at trendy spots like Veniamin on Mesologgiou Square or Foyer. Book lovers can immerse themselves in the eclectic literary scene in the anti-establishment area of Exarchia, filled with unique bookstores, including those from the independent publisher Aiora.

Discover hidden gems

Rather than visiting the National Gardens in central Athens, enjoy a leisurely stroll through the Mediterranean herb-filled gardens of the fully accessible Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC), designed by Renzo Piano. This beloved spot among locals addresses the city’s green space shortage and hosts free outdoor concerts throughout the year, weather permitting. You can rent a bike from the SNFCC parking area and explore the grounds. Kids can have fun in eco-playgrounds made of wood, featuring games inspired by ancient times. In the evening, enjoy a ballet, opera, or theater performance at the stunning Stavros Niarchos Hall of the Greek National Opera.

Savor fine dining surrounded by antiquities

Athens has welcomed a number of Michelin-starred restaurants in recent years, but one hidden gem is quietly creating culinary wonders beneath the Parthenon. At Makris Athens, chef Petros Dimas, who previously collaborated with the U.K.’s Jason Atherton, insists he’s not aiming for Michelin stars. Nonetheless, this restaurant deserves recognition in the gourmet scene. Located near pedestrian-friendly Adrianou Street, which connects various ancient sites and is bustling with visitors from April to October, stepping inside feels like entering a tranquil sanctuary. The menu draws inspiration from the Ionian island of Corfu, and Dimas embraces bold flavors and open feedback. “I want diners to either love it or hate it,” he says. “I like to experiment with acidity and intensity, pushing them to their limits.” He predominantly uses Greek ingredients, sourcing produce from his father's farm in ancient Corinth, red prawns from Argolis, and exquisite olive oil from ancient Olympia. For special occasions, consider booking the private dining room, where a glass floor reveals ancient artifacts beneath your feet.

Alternatively, explore the vibrant food and drink scene in the emerging Neos Kosmos neighborhood, featuring inventive spots like Fita, the wine bar Epta Martires, and the craft beer and specialty grocery store Baubo.

Island-hop without the tourists

While Santorini is iconic and Mykonos is known for its vibrant atmosphere, there are numerous islands that deserve exploration beyond these popular destinations.

Choose Milos over Santorini

Although Milos has gained significant popularity recently due to Sarakiniko’s lunar-like terrain and vibrant blue waters, making it a perfect backdrop for Instagram, it remains much less crowded than its Cycladic counterpart, Santorini. Some of my favorite beaches are on Milos, including the tranquil Gerondas in the southwest, with its deep, calm waters, and Alogomandra in the northeast, nestled beneath a partially collapsed sea cave.

Mina Agnos, co-founder and president of luxury Greek travel specialists Travelive, recommends staying at the Melian Boutique Hotel and Spa, a client favorite, or Milos Breeze Boutique Hotel, known for its exceptional hospitality. “Be sure to reserve a private sailboat, yacht, or RIB to explore the Kleftiko and Sykia sea caves and the nearby Poliegos islet, where you can swim in stunning ultramarine waters,” she advises. For shopping, Agnos suggests Opsidianos in the port town of Adamas for a range of handmade jewelry and the Milos Sand Gallery in the picturesque hilltop capital, Plaka, for its intriguing sand displays and unique souvenirs.

Trade Mykonos for Syros

Quaint Syros stands in stark contrast to the flamboyant Mykonos. If you yearn for a relaxed island lifestyle infused with history, this is your destination. Experience the 19th-century elegance of Syros’s capital, Ermoupolis, highlighted by its magnificent town hall. Stroll through the charming neoclassical mansions of the aristocratic Vaporia neighborhood, where the Apollon Theater, a smaller version of Milan’s La Scala, hosts the International Festival of the Aegean in July, featuring orchestral music, classical performances, and operas like Donizetti’s Don Pasquale.

In the Vaporia area, you’ll find the newly inaugurated Argini Hotel, located in a beautifully restored stone building dating back to 1853. Modern design elements from brands like Gessi, Artemide, and Buster + Punch complement the historic architecture. Guests can enjoy restored frescoes portraying Renaissance themes, mythical beings, and Greek revolutionary figures. Relax in the rooftop plunge pool and bar, atmospheric hammam, and indoor pool before dining at the in-house restaurant, Elexis, where chef Nikos Stamatis creatively incorporates local ingredients like kopanisti cheese and capers into his dishes. Fly Cycladic provides inter-island flights between Syros and neighboring islands on small 12-seater planes flying at low altitudes.

Discover family-owned eateries throughout the islands

Across islands from Tinos to Zakynthos, and Kefalonia to Sifnos, chefs are elevating Greek island cuisine by honoring cherished family recipes while adding their own innovative twists.

Zakynthos, renowned for its stunning Shipwreck Beach—currently closed to the public due to a landslide—is also a paradise for food enthusiasts. Rubys Sakis Kandilas, CEO of Explore Zakynthos and a licensed tour guide, has a fondness for Porto Roma, one of the island’s oldest and finest seafood restaurants. Arriving by boat at this azure bay eatery, you can moor at the floating dock and indulge in an array of freshly caught fish, expertly grilled, including red mullet, common dentex, and goldblotch grouper. At Dafni beach, vintage family-run tavernas powered by generators await, as they are within a marine park and not connected to the electrical grid. At Porto Mela, “They bake their bread in a wood-fired oven, serving it alongside their own olive oil, tomatoes, and garlic. I also enjoy the traditional Zakynthian rabbit stifado paired with ladotiri cheese,” Kandilas shares.

While in Tinos, indulge in taramosalata dip infused with squid ink at the seaside Thalassaki, and savor fennel croquettes at Ankyra, paired with a refreshing glass of local white assyrtiko wine. For more culinary delights, enjoy crudo fish dishes at Omega3 and beautifully simple seafood at the zero waste-focused Cantina on Sifnos. Off the western coast of Greece, the Ionian island of Kefalonia is famous for its hearty homemade meat pies, with family-run taverna Makis in Vasilikades village serving up a delicious version of this classic dish.