Exploring Gullah Geechee culture in the Southeastern US

I vividly recall my astonishment upon discovering that the iconic song “Kumbaya”—a spiritual familiar to every summer camper—actually originates from Gullah Geechee traditions. What sounds like three gentle syllables to most means “come by here” in the Gullah Geechee language.

For centuries, Gullah culture has thrived in the USA. Its impact on Southern and broader American culture is undeniable, even if its origins have not always been fully recognized. Treat yourself to a generous serving of shrimp and grits or a dish of hoppin’ John to savor Gullah culinary traditions. Watch high school and college groups showcase step routines, and you’ll notice connections to hamboning, a traditional Gullah rhythm-and-movement art form.

So, who are the Gullah Geechee people? They are African Americans with ancestry tracing back to those enslaved in the US. What sets them apart is the geographic isolation of their ancestors, who were enslaved on and around the barrier islands stretching from Wilmington, North Carolina, to Jacksonville, Florida. This seclusion allowed the Gullah Geechee to retain more of their African heritage. Their creole language, known as Gullah (or sometimes Geechee), combines elements from English and various African languages. As evidenced by “Kumbaya,” many Americans are familiar with at least a few Gullah words.

Today, the majority of Gullah and Geechee individuals (the latter typically referring to communities near the Ogeechee River close to Savannah) reside in coastal regions of South Carolina and Georgia, although their descendants are spread across the nation. Following the line of barrier islands along the coast will bring you face-to-face with the Gullah Geechee heritage.

From north to south, here are some of the top spots to immerse yourself in Gullah Geechee culture.

1. Reaves Chapel, Navassa, North Carolina

Reaves Chapel AME Church stands as one of the oldest buildings established for African Americans in North Carolina. Preservation efforts are in progress to maintain the structure and include it in a more comprehensive Gullah Geechee tour of coastal North Carolina. While visitors cannot enter the church, they are welcome to explore the Reaves community, historically linked to the Gullah Geechee.

2. Poplar Grove Plantation, Wilmington, North Carolina

This former sweet potato and peanut plantation is now recognized on the National Register of Historic Places and features on the National Park Service’s Gullah Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor. The exhibits here highlight the experiences of Black Americans from the Civil War to the Civil Rights movement, along with the cultural importance of peanut farming to Gullah heritage.

3. Gullah Museum, Georgetown, South Carolina

Established by members of the Gullah community, this captivating one-room museum shares the rich narrative of Gullah history and culture. Explore Gullah culinary traditions, music, language, and religious practices through various artifacts showcased in this historic venue in downtown Georgetown.

5. International African American Museum, Charleston, South Carolina

Opened in 2023, the International African American Museum presents a comprehensive narrative of African-descended individuals in the US, including a section dedicated to the Gullah Geechee. Discover the flat-bottomed boats used by the Gullah Geechee to traverse the Lowcountry’s marshes, along with spiritual practices like the ring shout.

6. Gullah Tours, Charleston, South Carolina

Tour guide Alphonso Brown, who grew up in Rantowles, South Carolina, deeply immersed in Gullah culture, leads visitors on an exploration of significant sites in Charleston related to Gullah heritage and Black history.

7. Hannibal’s Kitchen, Charleston, South Carolina

This casual dining spot in Charleston has been serving delicious soul food and Gullah cuisine since 1985. While there may be a wait after ordering, it ensures that your meal is hot and freshly prepared. Don’t miss the crab rice, and try the traditional okra soup, another Gullah favorite.

7. Charleston City Market, Charleston, South Carolina

One of the oldest commercial markets in the nation, Charleston City Market has been in operation for over 200 years. Within the market, you’ll find numerous Gullah artisans selling their famous sweetgrass baskets, a weaving tradition unique to the coastal Gullah community.

8. Joseph Fields Farm, Johns Island, South Carolina

Located about 25 minutes from Charleston, this family-run farm is owned by Joseph Fields, a third-generation Gullah farmer. Stop by the farm stand to select fresh fruits and vegetables, or visit during strawberry season to pick your own berries.

9. McLeod Plantation, James Island, South Carolina

This former plantation has been transformed into a historical park overseen by the local government, focusing on the narratives and experiences of the Gullah Geechee people. Admission to the park includes access to guided tours that provide insights into Gullah Geechee culture and the labor involved in cultivating and processing cotton.

Planning tip: Transform these Charleston-area attractions into an extended three-day itinerary—requiring just one advance reservation. Here’s how to plan it:

• Day 1: Start your journey in Charleston with the Gullah Tours guided experience. In addition to sharing his extensive knowledge of Gullah history and culture, Alphonso Brown will help you navigate the area. After the tour, check out the basket weavers at Charleston City Market.
• Day 2: Kick off your morning with a visit to McLeod Plantation, then return to Charleston for lunch at Hannibal’s Kitchen. Spend your afternoon exploring the air-conditioned exhibits at the International African American Museum.
• Day 3: Whether you're continuing on a road trip or just passing through on your way to one of the nearby beaches, don’t miss the chance to pick up some fresh produce at Joseph Fields Farm.

10. The Gullah Grub, St. Helena’s Island, South Carolina

Chef and owner Bill Green has been delighting diners with seasonal, farm-to-table creations for over 15 years at his restaurant. Gullah cuisine takes center stage, emphasizing rice dishes and seafood gumbo.

11. Underground Tours of Savannah, Savannah, Georgia

Experience the authentic narrative of Black American history and culture from a true community storyteller: Sistah Pat, a local Gullah Geechee woman and CEO of Underground Tours of Savannah. She leads visitors through Savannah’s downtown, recounting the stories of those who were enslaved in this historic city.

12. Beach Institute, Savannah, Georgia

The Beach Institute showcases African American viewpoints through the medium of art. Its exhibits feature quilt-making, an essential African American tradition, along with collections of folk art, sculptures, and paintings. This institute is operated by the King-Tisdell Cottage Foundation, dedicated to preserving the history of Black Americans in Savannah and the Sea Islands.

13. Pin Point Heritage Museum, Montgomery, Georgia 

Housed in a former oyster factory, this museum honors the Gullah Geechee community from the small settlement of Pin Point in Chatham County, known for its most notable resident, Supreme Court Justice Clarence Thomas. The museum illustrates how the community has thrived alongside the coastal waters that envelop it.

Planning tip: You can visit all three Savannah sites in one or two days. After your tour with Sistah Pat, head over to the Beach Institute. With just a 20-minute drive to Pin Point, consider saving that visit for day two for a more relaxed pace.

15. First African Baptist Church, Cumberland Island, Georgia

Constructed by formerly enslaved individuals in the late 19th century, this church is now recognized on the National Register of Historic Places. The unique conditions of Cumberland Island have helped maintain the church's modest structure, as the area is a federally protected national seashore where personal vehicles are not allowed. The church is accessible to the public only via a 15-mile hike or bike ride, or by booking the Lands & Legacies Tour.

16. Historic Harrington School, St. Simons Island, Georgia

Established in 1920, this one-room school provided education to African American children on St. Simons Island for many years. It also served as a gathering place for the community during special events. The Harrington community has its roots in those formerly enslaved who worked on nearby plantations.

17. Kingsley Plantation, North Jacksonville, Florida

Once a sea-island cotton plantation, it now forms part of the Timucan Ecological and Historic Park and Preserve, overseen by the National Park Service. Explore the historic community consisting of several tabby cabins where enslaved people resided, and discover the story of Gullah Jack Pritchard, an African American folk hero, insurrectionist, and conjurer.

18. Foxy Lady Café, Jacksonville, Florida

Chef and owner Shandon Benjamin-Fox opened her restaurant in 2015 to share the cherished recipes handed down from her mother and grandmother. This isn’t your ordinary soul-food spot; instead, Benjamin-Fox offers non-traditional Southern comfort dishes like the “foxy oxtail sandwich,” jambalaya Alfredo, and pound cake for dessert.