Exploring Portuguese grocery stores: stock up on canned seafood and more

Whenever I land in a new country, my first stop is always a grocery store. It’s a great way to absorb the variety of local produce and products, and to discover what foods are significant to the locals. Plus, as a cooking enthusiast, I love that my grocery store visits often mark the conclusion of my trips, allowing me to bring home some of the flavors, tastes, and ingredients I enjoyed during my stay.

Having visited Portugal for over a decade and lived here full-time for about three years, I still find grocery shopping to be an intriguing cultural experience, reminding me that I am far from home.

Where can I buy food?

The most traditional grocery shopping experience in Portugal can be found at the mercado, or fresh market. Unfortunately, these markets are becoming less common. While lively fresh markets are still present in cities like Lisbon, Setúbal, and Olhão, the majority of Portuguese shoppers now frequent two main types of venues.

A mercearia is akin to a corner shop—small, usually family-owned grocery stores that stock essentials and often a good variety of fruits. A well-stocked mercearia typically includes a small selection of vegetables, various types of bread, and maybe even some cheeses and cured meats.

Next up in scale is the supermercado. While there are several local and international supermarket chains in Portugal, shopping there isn’t always the best experience. Often lacking staff and offering produce that falls short of the country’s rich variety of vegetables, fruits, cheeses, and meats, they are a disappointing alternative to fresh markets. However, there are some interesting aspects—Portugal has a high consumption rate, so even a small local supermarket usually boasts a solid fish section with at least eight varieties of fresh fish. They also dedicate space for processing large sides of bacalhau (salt cod), a culinary staple. With connections to Brazil and Africa, the fruit selection can be quite diverse, and, being Portugal, the wine is usually inexpensive.

Portugal is also home to a range of specialty shops, although these too are rapidly diminishing. A manteigaria used to sell butter (manteiga) and similar deli items, but now they’re often referred to as charcutarias. Butcher shops, known as talhos, are thriving in the country. Traditional shops that offer bulk coffee and tea—often from vintage cabinets—can still be found. A garrafeira is a thriving bottle shop in Portugal. Conserveiras focus on tinned seafood, and despite its name, a drogaria doesn’t sell medicine, but rather household goods like mops, floor wax, toothpaste, and nail clippers.

Essential products to buy before leaving Portugal (and what to request)

Canned fish

Portugal is renowned for its high-quality canned fish, available at gourmet mercearias, supermercados, and specialized conserveiras. Be sure to look for products from the brand Pinhais, or for a truly unique treat, try the small, round tins of fish pâté, like those made by Manná or Fides.

Olive oil

Portugal offers excellent value in olive oil. Oils from Alentejo, located in inland central Portugal, like those produced by Esporão, are tasty and widely available in most supermarkets. However, don't miss the spicier varieties from Trás-os-Montes, such as Romeu or Rosmaninho, found in the northern region of the country.

Sausages & smoked meats

Portugal boasts a rich heritage of sausages and smoked meats, a tradition evident even in small grocery stores. If permitted by local customs, seek out presunto de porco preto, a cured ham made from Iberian black-footed pigs—some of the finest in the world. Don’t forget to pick up a ring or two of chouriço, the country’s popular spicy smoked sausage, or alheira, a poultry-stuffed sausage mixed with spiced bread.

Cheeses

Queijo de São Jorge, a firm, aged cheese made from cow’s milk in the Azores, travels exceptionally well. Pair it with a jar of marmelada, or quince paste; the Quinta do Côro brand can be found at gourmet-focused mercearias.

Toiletries

Portugal offers some beautifully scented soaps, available at traditional drograrias and select supermercados; look for the Ach. Brito brand. Classic drogarias also feature a delightful range of vintage shaving tools, including lathers, badger hair brushes, and colognes.

Guidelines for shopping in Portuguese food stores

When visiting a traditional butcher or specialty shop, be ready to wait a little; for many locals, especially the older crowd, these outings are a vital part of their social interactions, and discussions often extend well beyond just choosing a cut of pork.

Shopping habits in Portugal

Portuguese people usually reserve weekends, especially Sundays, for their major shopping excursions.

Even with these large shopping days, locals frequent butchers and fishmongers during the week. The Portuguese take their protein choices seriously, and even small supermarkets offer full-service fishmongers and butchers, where locals make specific requests.

Optimal Shopping Times

If you prefer a quieter shopping experience, steer clear of weekends and late afternoons. We've found that the lines are shortest around 3 PM.

Shopping Etiquette

Strangely, almost every Portuguese supermarket has at least one guard or police officer present. I've yet to see an armed robbery, so they must be quite effective.

Bags come at a cost, so make sure to bring your own unless you're okay with paying for them.

When you check out, you’ll usually be asked if you’d like to register your contribuinte, which offers a tax reduction; if you don't have a NIF or government-issued tax ID, just decline politely.

Payment Options

While most vendors now have card swiping devices, smaller mercearias often only accept cash or may accept cards for purchases over 5 euros. Stores that don’t accept cards will display a sign saying Não Há Multibanco. Many locals also use MBWay, a funds transfer app, for payments.