Exploring the Grateful Dead and Fishing—Why You Can't Miss Asheville’s French Broad River

Asheville beckons with its charm, pulling you in irresistibly. What is it about this North Carolina gem that captivates? Central to its allure is the French Broad River, a timeless waterway that connects us all. This river, among the oldest on the planet—dating back hundreds of millions of years—has shaped the region from its inception. Interestingly, it is one of the rare rivers globally (alongside the Nile) that flows south to north, defying the norm. Sometimes, going against the current is exactly what we need to discover ourselves.

The French Broad River today embodies the creativity synonymous with Asheville, inspiring a wave of businesses revitalizing its banks. In 2022, Shelton Steele and Joe Balcken launched 16 A-frame cabins, merging urban living with nature at Wrong Way River Lodge and Cabins. “Experience the shimmering waters flowing through Asheville—whether you float, fish, or simply watch it pass,” Steele advises. Here, time slows down, revealing the river’s vibrant outdoor character. It nourishes many of Western North Carolina’s watersheds, becoming the very essence of Asheville,” he states.

Co-founder Steele highlights the historical significance of the French Broad as a trade route in the 1800s, surrounding George Vanderbilt’s stunning Biltmore. Today, it marks Asheville's outdoor corridor. Steele also mentions another local venture inspired by the river, Crooked Creek Holler. This apparel line, crafted for outdoor enthusiasts, merges fishing and the Grateful Dead, featuring designs by founder and tattoo artist Danny Reed alongside other artists on t-shirts, caps, and more.

“The rich history of the French Broad serves as an artery through the city,” Reed shares. “It predates the mountains and dinosaurs, remaining a unique waterway teeming with diverse wildlife.” The river fosters a central gathering space for people. “There’s something magical about spending time by such an ancient and magnificent body of water, particularly when fishing.” A passionate fly fisherman, Reed can often be found on the river or at Hot Stuff Tattoo, where you can get an unforgettable keepsake: a vibrant trout tattoo created by Reed himself.

Fishing, paddleboarding, and tubing adventures

The French Broad River, along with nearby rivers like the Green, Laurel, and Big Ivy, provides a wealth of options for those craving water-based adventures. For a perfect day by the river, Steele suggests a refreshing run along the riverside or standup paddleboarding, topped off with some of your favorite drinks. His preferred route includes a quick jog along the Greenway, a paddleboard journey downstream to Wrong Way Campground, followed by cold beers around the campfire. Explore more aquatic activities with French Broad Boatworks, Curtis Wright Outfitters, Wai Mauna Asheville SUP Tours, and Zen Tubing.

The River Arts District by the riverside is rich with former factories and historic structures transformed into vibrant art galleries. Visitors can wander through the studios of nearly 300 artists, gaining insight into their creative processes before buying unique pieces. The woman-led Tyger Tyger Gallery showcases exceptional talent from regional, national, and international artists. Don’t miss the North Carolina Glass Center, which offers glassblowing workshops and features a gallery highlighting the best emerging and established local artists. A second location will be launched in the heart of nearby Black Mountain in 2024.

Riverside eateries, breweries, and bars

The River Arts District boasts a true culinary paradise. Newstock Pantry, created by Ashley Capps—a semifinalist for the 2019 James Beard Foundation Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef—offers delicious breads, pastries, and substantial sandwiches. The Appalachian-inspired menu at Bull & Beggar draws a loyal local following, especially on Monday nights. Vivian serves European fine dining in a casual setting, while Rosabees whisks you away to the Hawaiian islands. French Broad Chocolate is essentially a local homage to Willy Wonka’s iconic factory.

The area features plenty of fantastic spots to savor scenic river views throughout the day. Begin your morning with coffee from the Woodfin branch of High Five, where you can relax by the riverbank as dogs play and herons glide across the water. And what could be better than unwinding near the river at sunset with a delightful drink? Visit Bottle Riot for an impressive wine selection, and Anoche for exceptional mezcal cocktails and espresso. Plēb Urban Winery focuses on local grapes, while Crucible, named after a glassblowing tool, serves craft cocktails in an artistic and moody atmosphere.

Asheville is celebrated for its vibrant and diverse brewery scene, with several venues offering refreshing brews along the river. Enjoy the expansive outdoor spaces and sunshine at breweries and beer halls like Wedge Brewery Company at Foundation, Cersus Keme, and New Origin Brewing. For a unique twist on traditional beer, visit Saint Brighid’s inside Marquee Asheville for delicious cider and mead, or try Ginger’s Revenge, which specializes in alcoholic ginger beer.

As night falls, head to the Getaway River Bar, a welcoming spot where dancing is always encouraged. It's a lively venue hosting everything from karaoke and themed parties to drag shows throughout the week.

Accommodations along the river

Beyond the luxury cabins at Wrong Way, Asheville’s waterways present a range of accommodation choices. The Radical, which opened its doors in October 2023, features whimsical interiors designed by Wes Anderson set designer Kris Moran, complete with stunning panoramic river views. A stay here wouldn’t be complete without enjoying a sunset dinner at Golden Hour, the latest venture from renowned Asheville restaurateur Jacob Sessoms. For those seeking a cozy river-adjacent retreat, options like Country Inn & Suites Asheville River Arts District, TownePlace Suites Asheville West, and Inn on Westwood are excellent alternatives.

The moment you set foot on the Greenway and catch your first glimpse of the French Broad, its allure becomes clear. It’s one of the rare spots worldwide where you can see an eastern spiny softshell turtle. Ospreys and tall herons perch on the riverbanks, watching for their next meal, while locals engage in their daily lives—working, creating, and playing in the vicinity. You haven’t truly experienced Asheville until you’ve felt the magic of the French Broad River.